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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Feb 20, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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The Real ones, St George, Scottish made (not the ones that look
like Ragg socks) were The Bomb once you removed the powder puff
from the top. The best thing for skiing in powder, crud or glop
if there were any falls involved.
Would fully kick ass on a Kingston Kingsbury with ball cap.
I'm serious. Anybody want to part with one of those dinosaurs?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
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I actually do have a couple of Balaclavas, but now I'm jonsing a kingston Kingsbury™!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
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A fine day for balaclavas: A stylish orange one and a purple one here modeled by 2/3 of the FA
team on Solar Slab, one cold day in January 1975. The other 1/3 of the team wore a green
one, I think.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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Better balaclava shot, Tom Kaufman on the Solar Slab FA.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 10:03pm PT
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Huntington Ravine on Mt Washington often provides the full winter experience.
Tom Gries climbing with borrowed gear in Damnation Gully, 1979.
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cowpoke
climber
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more please.
not an old climb, but a new scan of Chiloe chillin'
in an area from which he is sure to have a few more
slides worth scanning (and posting).
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Chiloe,
That Superslab looks good!
Z
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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Chiloe,
That Superslab looks good!
Yeah, that one's not a candidate for my "Worst First" thread. It gets climbed now and then, so I hear.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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Not an old climb but definitely one of the climbers who climbed them ...
RR's Original Local (and Cowpoke) somewhere out west.
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L
climber
Malibu, baby....in a Cheetah shirt
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OK, OK, OK...so you're not working all that hard. Somehow I missed the continuation of this thread after the first hundred fifty. My bad.
Super Slab...niiiiiiiice!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
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Heh, actually, Solar Slab is the route in photos above. Super Slab in Eldo is a whole
'nother thing, I think Layton Kor named that beauty.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Bump for old shots off new scanners:
Solar Slab, Super Slab...
don't forget 'Sliding Board'
(approx 76' when I got my first friction RR's)
Sliding board
I remember climbing those Whitehorse slab routes thinking one day the training would pay off on a 'pilgrimage' to the Valley (over on the Apron anyway).
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The same friction RR's
What did you do on a hot, sweaty, drizzley day in North Conway in the late 70's ?
Hang dog your way up the bottom of the Beast 666 in the rain.
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John Mallory leading 'Diedre' on a humid summer day in 78
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I loved Chiloe's pic of Steve Larson, at the top of Dracula.
Good ole balaclavas and flexible tubed 'birds', hey is that the orange leg loop of a Whillans harness ? ;)
78 was a really good year for ice. The next pic sucks. It is a scan of a 110 instamatic shot. The image's merit is in showing how fat Pinnacle gulley was that early in the season.
(note the lack of snow in the ravine, photo was taken in mid/late Decenber as I recall)
Pinnacle in fat condition for such early season ('78)
Keep'm coming Chiloe ;)
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cowpoke
climber
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love those old cathedral pics, Trundlebum! thanks for sharing them!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Now we are getting somewhere...
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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TrundleBum. Love those old shots. Really captures the gritty 70s. They show the strain, sweat and shake of folks climbing something at their limit. All of them are great.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
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Right on Trundlebum, this website needs more North Conway coolness. All the better if
the shots are old and fuzzy.
Coincidentally, Steve Larson and I climbed Pinnacle Gully in November 1978, finding
plenty of ice as in your photo. But right under the surface of the ice was a torrent of
water, which our tools would break into. Then you'd have this high-pressure drinking-
fountain of water blasting out, soaking us and our rope. The rope froze up stiff as
a cable. We had to climb with it anyway (hip belays only!) until we reached Alpine Gardens,
where the visibility was 10 feet and the wind almost knocked us over. No way the rope
would coil, we had to crack it to cram that frozen cable into a pack. Fortunately, Steve
knew where the descent was.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Ok you asked for it.. I have a few more.
I took very few pic's back then.
I can dredge up a few more without having to fly to Hawai'i to raid my storage there ;)
I wish I could snap my fingers and pour through Tom Callaghan's archives. He was a pretty active photog while climbing.
In the meantime... chiloe I know what you mean about Pinnacle under those conditions.
Does anyone remember Jim Tierney ?
I met him through Kurt Winkler. We used to do a fair amount of climbing in the ravine together.
One year for a month or so he care took the Harvard cabin. That was the 'shiznit' for me. I could leave "Joe Dodge's" with nothing but my tools and bivy gear and run up there for a three day stay.
One of the finest climbs I ever recall doing was Damnation with Tierney. He was all pumped up. He had done it a few days before so we went up and he lead the crux pitch which consisted of sinking a tool with the left hand while your right hand jammed between the ice and the right rock wall of the gully. It took about four of these moves while layback/stemming the bulge curtain and the right wall. A good 'Scottish' outing in those days.
It was Tierney that taught me, if you are descending (for the day) from the Alpine gardens and do not intend nor need to regain the base of the ravine, then it is way faster (later season with good neve' conditions) to glisade to the top of Raymond's cataract (a surprisingly easy down climb) and pop out onto the fire trail a little ways below the Harvard cabin.
BRB .. I'll go scan a few more of what I have.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
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Good deal. I think Geno promised some more old photos too, where'd he go?
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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sorry got way laid.
Ok well of course crappy images need explainations so I will caption...
I started off bouldering on the rocks at the harbour.
One mid-July day a friend and I spent all day long hitch hiking from the North shore of Boston out to Crow hill.
It took all day to get there so we built a small fire, bivy'd in shirt sleeves, bouldered and hitched home the next day.
At the ripe age of 15 I was the older one by a year that was 76'.
But my buddy Bradley was way stronger:
Shortly after we broadened our horizons to encompass the 'Big crags' of New Hamshire.
This meant more hitch hiking
This picture was taken in the rain, on the way back from N.Conway. It is or rather was, just before rt#16 joined with rt#95 at the Portsmouth rotary headed south.
Bradley and I Made many trips to N.Conway.
We shared early horror shows. Our first ever climb at Cathedral was leading the mossey 'Fun House' in a drizzle with just a few hexes and a couple stoppers and no clue.
We explored small crags enroute to the better known ones.
Once while on our way to Acadia in Bar Harbour ME. we stopped for a day at 'Megundicook' ledge near Camden. Our line there would be a good candidate for 'the worst FA you've done' thread.
I kept climbing but Bradley sort of faded quickly after we started getting into multipitch climbs. That was unfortunate because he was the consumate athlete.
Neither here nor there (OT)...
(in light of seeing some horrendo bike-athon T-Gordon posted on another thread)
Years later (87') my buddy Bradley did Port Hueneme CA. to Rockland ME.
The back of the images I have read:
"Portland Me, Port Hueneme to Thomaston Me 4,004 miles, 46 days solo 10/18/87"
By the time I was 17 (yes I dropped out of high school to go climbing) I was living in the N.Conway area and climbing as much as possible. That year I had the ultimate living situation. A super cheap room in a farm house located right on rt#16 about 300 yards before you dip into Chocurua village, travelling north. I shared this good sized house with a climbing partner named Paul Mitmon. Back then we lamented living so far from the crags but enjoyed the privacy and economy of rent.
Paul Mitmon and I did a fair amount of climbing together. I had a 68' split windshield bus that was our transpo.
In the spring we went on what was my first trip to a non granite climbing area, the Gunks. We got to Trapps shortly before dark, just enough time to pack a bivy and get up onto the 'High exposure' ledge where we spent the first night. In the morning we awoke on the High-E ledge with the sunrise at our toes.
After we brewed a cup of Jo' and dropped our rucksacks into the trees below, Paul lead off, up, the money pitch of 'High-E"
The next fall I went Made my first trip to the Valley and at the end of the season got caught in the lens of fellow New Hampshire climber Paul Boisenault when we did the East buttress of Middle Cathedral shortly before leaving the Valley.
~~~~~~~
From the Valley, 'Base' and a couple of us drove back east via Joshua Tree
Back in New Hamshire the next season I climbed some with a guy originally from North Carolina, that I met previously in Yosemite. This really ratty picture is Bob Rotert climbing Chicken delight on the Barber wall.
Over the years I wound up teaching a little
And doing some bigger, longer routes in the Valley
But I wound up surfing and windsurfing and generally getting back to my sailing beginnings and moving off to Hawai'i for half a life time.
There lol
I tried to link the pic's I could scrounge for now,
with a tad bit of story line ;)
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