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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 29, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Russell Walling, Billy Russell, Roy McClenahan, Scott Cosgrove, Degnan's Deli, early 90s:
Billy Russell, Scott Cosgrove, Russell Walling, Jo Whitford, Degnan's Deli, early 90s:
Roy McClenahan, Dick Cilley, Scott Cosgrove, Tuolumne Meadows, 1985:
Dave Schultz, Scott Cosgrove, Ron Kauk, Grant Hiskes, C4 parking lot, 1980s:
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Bob_Banks
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Feb 29, 2016 - 11:28am PT
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I had to laugh when I found this photo last night, this is what Steve and I called a "Cosgrove Spot".
Scott Cosgrove making sure Steve Edwards is safe. Joshua Tree, probably 1997.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2016 - 07:53pm PT
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It's been a week since Scott passed away and a pretty tough one.
The initial shock and disbelief is giving way to acceptance of the reality and loss.
Thought I'd share a few recollections.
I first encountered Scott in the Camp 4 Parking Lot in the late seventies I think.
He was posing down, literally, with some visiting Spaniards and already had a reputation as a badass definitely way out of my league.
We connected more directly in Josh in 81-82 I think.
He was living in his van and hanging with the General and we coalesced around a mutual fondness for strong coffee, any weed we could get our hands on, slander and delusions of climbing grandeur.
Climbing with Scott started in earnest when he came up to Squamish in the late eighties with Amy.
We were well enough acquainted by then that he looked me up and of course I gave him a place to stay and did my best to show him around.
We headed up The Grand and by then it was customary to simul climb Merci Me and the last few bolts up to the base of The Pillar.
I was on the pointy end and had forgotten to bring smaller stoppers for looping the 3/16 bolt remnants and actually blew off one and hollered at Scott that I was falling.
He grabbed the rope in front of him and thanks to the drag through the gear, held my fall, shook his head in disbelief and yelled at me "What the f*#k's up Chief, you're not supposed to fall simul climbing!"
I did the Canadian thing, apologized, finished the lead and we carried on.
He never let me forget that one.
Scott became a regular on the Squamish scene and he'd show up with his current love interest and camp in the yard, sometimes for a few weeks of the Squamish summer.
One week in particular stands out, probably early nineties I think, and we decided to do the long free classics but the problem was the rain.
I suggested we check out The Daily Planet on the Badge as I suspected if we could get to the base of the corner it would be protected.
We sloshed up through the forest and jugged an old fixed line up to the main ledge but the slabs up to the corner were wet, so I used a combination of wool socks and knees to get to the corner.
Scott liked that.
Long story short, we were protected from the rain and I'll never forget watching it fall behind us into the forest below as we enjoyed some of the only dry rock on the Chief and cruised the beautiful corner system, Coz on sighting the route.
That wet our appetites and the weather improved so after a bit of a rest day we headed up the University Wall.
I offered Cozzy my complex beta for the crux of the second pitch which involved jamming through a short overhang and will never forget the sight of him blowing off my beta and wildly underclinging the miserably rounded edge and not falling off.
We carried on the rest of the way and finished up The Chimneys, no falls and the first on sight flash of the route by Coz.
We took a rest day and climbed the Northern Lights, again no falls and an on sight flash of the route by Coz.
Scott came up to Squamish regularly and capped his career there by freeing the Grand Wall route via an unlikely 5.13 face section that I had dubbed "a featureless wasteland".
I think Annie Overlin helped him with that and it took a few tries before he figured it out.
We were all stoked for him.
Because one of his parents was originally from Canada, Scott always thought of himself as part Canuck and went through the process of obtaining his Canadian citizenship, something he was real proud of.
Many of us Canucks liked to think of him as one of our own.
Scott was always a far better free climber than I could ever dream of being but he was a patient and supportive partner who always motivated me to climb my best.
I think that was true for anyone who climbed with him whether you were a beginner or in his league.
He made me welcome at his home in Josh and I was privileged to spend a lot of time there.
Mornings always started with strong coffee, quality pork product and mind numbing bud.
A colourful mix of Josh denizens and visiting warrior athletes often populated the place and there was no shortage of provocative conversation and debate.
Back in 95 we climbed together in the Valley and did the Chouinard Herbert on Sentinel and West Face of El Cap.
He helped me start the Grand Wazoo on Middle solving the technical crux on the first pitch before leaving the Valley over a meltdown with his girlfriend.
I blew my elbow that following winter in Josh and pretty much ended my hard climbing career.
The ankle injury and the demands of film work started to limit Scott's climbing.
We worked together in Vancouver on Tron Legacy and shared the bond of common suffering when two aging crag rats find themselves in dusty soundstages in the wee hours wondering what happened to those easier youthful days moving over the stone.
Scott was a dark horse and had a volatile side but he had a generous heart and was utterly without guile.
He lived his beliefs, worked harder than anyone, quietly endured and remained true to his friends.
I'm proud to have been his friend.
I've been in touch with his sister and close friends and the plan at this time is to have a gathering in his memory in Joshua Tree on Saturday March 26.
Todd Gordon has graciously offered to host the gathering at his place.
We'll provide more details over the next few days as they're firmed up.
Perry Beckham
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Thanks Chief.
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fosburg
climber
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Thanks for sharing those memories Chief! I've been thinking about Scott a lot this week also, remembering great climbs together.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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F*#k Yeah Chief, nothing more could be betterly said.
Cheers all over ya!
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Kevin,
So good to see your post.
I have the fondest memories of climbing Rostro- Man with you.
Epic good times.
PB
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Pile of Rocks
climber
Park City Utah
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Hey Perry!
It's Amy. Loved the Coz story. It has been a tough week for me. Even though I have only talked to Scott 10 times or so in the past 20 years. He made a huge impact on my life and the direction ti went. Scott and I had an amazing young love that stays with you for a lifetime. I have the best memories of Squamish and your home. I used to walk your German Shepherds when you and Scott went climbing. It was little me and the 2 very big dogs. I hope you are well, see you in JT. We are fortunate so have Scott touch our lives.
Peace and love to you!
Amy Cairn
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2016 - 04:07am PT
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Good to hear from you Amy!
Hope to see you at the gathering.
PB
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I'm really enjoying this pics and stories.
All I can really add is the thing that stands out in my mind. I first heard details about coz reading about Southern Belle. When I read that Peter Croft, PETER CROFT! backed off it I knew that whoever put it up must be one of the most bad ass climbers of all time.
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WBraun
climber
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That's not very accurate at all. ^^^^
Croft had abilities that Coz didn't and and Coz had abilities that Croft didn't (very minor).
Both were very bad ass climbers in their own ways and styles.
Comparing these guys is stoopid .....
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dave yerian
Trad climber
the parking lot
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I just got off the phone with Kurt Smith and Roy McClenehan. I'm still in shock and have been in shock since I first heard. It hadn't hit me until this morning, Scott is gone.
The rush of emotions and tears hit tsunami hard. To everyone here around the campfire that are Scott's friends, the loss is enormous.
The lesson I've learned from this is what it's like to be a human on this crazy planet. The biggest treasures we have in life, the treasures that shine like a candle in sometimes dark places, are compassion, kindness, love and forgiveness when we screw up. We all make mistakes in life, but a real friend never leaves each others side.
For Scott, Rest in Peace Brother, we all miss you.
Yerian
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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The biggest treasures we have in life, the treasures that shine like a candle in sometimes dark places, are compassion, kindness, love and forgiveness when we screw up. We all make mistakes in life, but a real friend never leaves each others side. Really well put. There's that old line from Sartre, "Hell is other people". True, they can be a pain, but it's BS. Other people are the thing that makes life meaningful.
Though I only met Coz a few times over the years (the Valley, Eastside, Josh, etc.), I can't say I knew him. My condolescences to everyone close to him for your personal loss.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Scott was a friend in the truest sense of the word. After Dan died, Scott let me know if I ever needed anything I could call......and I knew he meant it.
Peace
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Bully Boy
Social climber
South Central
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RIP Coz!
MB
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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I only ran into Scott a few times, at JT gatherings and the like, and always enjoyed talking with him. Nothing but admiration for the great lines he climbed..
He once told me that he went to Tahquitz and Suicide to work through the run-out classics, specifically to train for Southern Belle. What a trip: casting off into the unknown on that gigantic South face, hoping it goes somehow, getting through pitch after pitch with close calls and extraordinary effort, then getting to the top against all odds. This is the kind of experience that climbers live for, except magnified a hundred fold compared to the norm. Southern Belle ranks right up there with the best of all Yosemite first ascent adventures for risk and for being a close- run thing.
I think this extraordinary climb is appreciated by many more than Scott seemed to think. Sure, only a tiny fraction would even seriously consider doing it, but I expect every decade or so, an exceptional few will venture up it and be rewarded like Scott and Shultz were.
For a climber, that is not a bad legacy.
My whole-hearted condolences his family and his friends.
Rick Accomazzo
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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What a great photo, John! How about that massive ghetto blaster!!
What route had you guys climbed, and who are the other two in the photo?
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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That is Cory and Coz, who had just climbed Zodiac, and Fish and me, we had just climbed Iron Hawk.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Cool photo John. Love how it captures a bygone era...Russ with the ghetto blaster...
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Wow, that's quite a photo. My condolences to those who knew Scott. Great respect for the FFA of Southern Belle.
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