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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jan 20, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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One of Rob Muir's more impressive efforts was on the fabled Pierre d'Orthaz in Chamonix in the summer of 1977.
He did a very difficult low traverse that looks to my memory to be the same moves the guy in this video is doing.
Hey Rob, is this how you did it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIVGA-wTYJ4
Modern rating is French 8(a), whatever that is.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 20, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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Yabosits
At Rainbow, Jefe!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 20, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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Somebody had to do it
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 20, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Hero Roof cannot be the thread killer.
It just can't.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 20, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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Here ya go, palate cleasnser
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 20, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
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South of Page, AZ
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2016 - 12:01am PT
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Henry Mountains
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 21, 2016 - 09:05am PT
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Haha Jefe. Hero's roof nearly mic dropped this thread.
This one was fun.
V2 or 3ish
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 21, 2016 - 10:55am PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 21, 2016 - 11:33am PT
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The Necco Wafer, Capitol Reef
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jan 21, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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great thread and posts
hard to find pics of my favorites since I usually boulder alone, but here are a couple of memorable ones.
Marshall Gulch, Sonoma coast
this arete at Bald Rock Picnic Area
backcountry bloc in the Red Trinity Alps
One of many problems I've put up at scrappy ole' Sugar Loaf Ridge SP in Sonoma County. Favors Undertakings V1 (photo by Chris Summit who has also put up many problems out here over the years.)
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 21, 2016 - 04:59pm PT
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…on the fabled Pierre d'Orthaz in Chamonix in the summer of 1977.
Looks to be my problem, but I don't remember going back left at the end to top-out. I seem to recall continuing right, and casually stepping down. ;-) The best topout on that pierre précieuse, to my mind, was Gramicci's dyno which he did in 1976. That thing was really fun!
French 8A, huh? Wikipedia says that's a Hueco V11. (I don't think so…)
The boulder looks a lot cleaner without all of our tents around it. I also don't remember any crashpads lying around, either.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jan 21, 2016 - 05:26pm PT
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Split--Spent quite a bit of time out that way the last couple years. Girlfriend lived in Napa and her family has a coast house in Gualala. I was basically spending two months at a time out there. Sugarloaf and Salt Point were pretty much my hang this past summer. What I liked the most about those places is NO crowds. Living in Bishop, sometimes it feels a bit crowded. Not out in Napa/Sonoma. :-D
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 21, 2016 - 07:25pm PT
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This.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jan 21, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
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^^ The poolside exit. ;-) ;-)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jan 21, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Thanks for the shoutout on Lawndart Ryan!
Named, at Ryan's suggestion, for the number of times I fell out of my heel-toe cams and piledrove my head into the pads.
As for my favourite problems, I wouldn't profess to be much of a boulderer, at least not yet, but here are a standout few.
Kangaroo Corner, V3 or .11a in the bluffs. More commonly climbed as a gear route I think, it was my first trad lead of the grade, my first real highball, and then my first (and only) solo of that grade once the pads were removed.
Titanic, V3. This one was special because it was a testament to hard work. The first time I tried it, I couldn't even pull myself off the ground on the starting crimps. I put in three or four months of dedicated hangboard training, came back and flashed it.
Pickpocket, V5, Pemberton. This only gets three stars in the guidebook, but I think it's deserving of more. It has an awesome move out to a jug on the lip, a precision deadpoint to a mailbox slot, and then a committing heel-hand match to rollover a fair ways off the deck. Not a mantle you want to blow.
I thought it felt easy for the grade, but then again I was really stoked haha.
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RyanD
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2016 - 09:17am PT
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Brownie & TheSoloclimber hit my thread!
Haha that photo of brownies is awesome- Hevy Mantel! A smoke bluffs masterpiece!
Sick additions by everyone. Careful with that Hero Ruff tho!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jan 22, 2016 - 09:42am PT
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Smooth as snot. Nasty landing. What's not to like?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 22, 2016 - 10:08am PT
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Rock Maze One of my favorites sits on top of Spire One.
Estes CreekGrace BasinMeat Packing Plant
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 22, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
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Nice MikeM.
This thing is classic.
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