Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
|
|
^Every climb needs a grab handle! LOL
|
|
Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
|
|
Roots - What I like about your Doug Black hanger is that it looks like it has a 1/4" bolt hole. All of the Doug Black hangers I replaced in the AZ mountains have 3/8 bolt holes.
It is a 1/4" hole. It came from an insignificant route. I'll look up the details and let you know.
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
|
Besides being a handle, what is the purpose of the grab handle?
Is it on the top of a route, on a adventure hiking route, on a aid route, hmmm...
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2015 - 06:41pm PT
|
|
|
cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
|
Are hangers all that diff from angle irron with the sharp edges ground off?
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
|
Marty,
Besides being a handle, what is the purpose of the grab handle?
Is it on the top of a route, on a adventure hiking route, on a aid route, hmmm... It's meant as a joke.
It's on an old 5.5 route at the Pinnacles National Park called "Twinkle Toes Traverse".
When the rebolting was done, it was preserved (one of the bolts on the garage door handle was upgraded).
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
|
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
|
Ah yes, I do have a Doug Black 1/4” hanger. This is one of two belay hangers that broke on a route named the Requiem 5.8 A3 on Pinnacle Peak AZ in 1974. The Requiem route is no longer listed in the guidebook, but the route used to start in Fear of Flying 5.10c and wrapped left around to Shalayly Direct 5.11c to the belay anchor. Route to summit either continued left to South Crack 5.3 or right back onto the Fear of Flying 5.10c route.
Three climbers were on the route; Dana Hollister rapped back down to the second rap ledge and waited. Roland Watson and Peter Noebels were still on the belay anchors when they ripped away from the rock (bolt failure) sending them 120’ to the ground. The climbers hit the rock a few times on the way down and Peter fell into and broke a palo verde tree on the ground. Dana down climbed and ran for help. Both broken climbers survived. Arizona Mountaineering Club assisted in the rescue. May 19, 1974.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2015 - 12:02am PT
|
Marty,
did the hanger or the bolt break in the accident? The hanger in the photo looks OK to me. The bolt looks like it has lost a few threads off the end.
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2015 - 06:37pm PT
|
bhilden - yes two bolts broke causing the climbers to fall 120'. Dana Hollister returned to the route and chiseled out the remaining bolt that is shown. The hanger, bolt, and bent Chouinard carabiner and Bonaiti carabiner were kept together since the accident and donated to the museum in 2000. Not sure what happened to the other hanger.
Dana returned to Pinnacle Peak and attempted a solo ascent of the Requiem on February 1, 1975, and a SMC hanger failed on him causing a short fall. This time it was the hanger that broke and it was an old style SMC hanger breaking as early as 1975. Broke on body weight only. The yellow paint on the SMC hanger below is the missing part of the hanger shown in the photo that broke on Dana.
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
|
Two Doug Black hangers from the route "the Settlement 5.7" on Tom's Thumb in the McDowell Mtns AZ. These are the original belay and rap hangers placed by the route FA: 1967 Larry Trieber, Bill Sewrey and Don Witt. The right hanger shows Bill Sewrey's three dot stamp (just above the bolt). The first ascent was aided so the FFA goes to: 1974 Larry Trieber and Barbara Zinn
 Hangers were replaced in November 2000
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
|
|
|
Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 08:30am PT
|
Nice stuff Marty! I have some gear with the three dot stamp...glad to know who owned it.
How about this hanger? I received (2) of them along with a Holubar hammer on eBay a couple years ago. Actually now that I think about it, I hope I grabbed the correct hanger from the bin...
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 09:25am PT
|
Roots- That is the right hanger since I have the other one sitting right in front of me. Similar in design to a Leeper not Ed's work in my estimation.
No stamp on it to help identification but somebody must have seen one before these two showed up.
|
|
Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 09:48am PT
|
Thanks SG - I'm just about done with my organization of my collection but still a little shaky as records are one place and the gear is another, just need to connect the dots!
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
|
Roots,
In answer to your above photo:
It's a MHE (Marc Hughston Enterprises) chromoly hanger. Circa mid-eighties. At first glance, they might appear similar to the Leeper hangers. A closer look shows that the bend is to the opposite side, making it easier for right-handed hammering. The sheet metal is thicker and heat-treated. It's a very strong hanger. The eye is bigger to accomodate two biners.
Around 1990, I got the dies from Marc and had 750 or 1000 made out of thick 304 stainless steel. Those were placed in northern Baja. The machinist subsequently lost or scrapped the dies, so there will never be another production run.
This quote from Marc:
I spoke to Ed Leeper many times circa 1986, and he gave me his recipe for the chromoly steel material thickness and Rockwell hardness number to shoot for. The Yates brothers encouraged me to make a hanger that two biners could fit into side by side, and that's why I made the hanger in that shape.
If you want additional info, search this site, "Marc Hughston" for the links.
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2015 - 09:00am PT
|
I know these hangers were produced by Marc Hughston, but I have always seen them listed as HME hangers standing for (I believe) Hughston Mountaineering equipment. For a while in the early 1990s Blue Water ropes was distributing these HME or MHE hangers, seen in the Blue Water ads on the back cover of the Climbing magazines. Good trivia here....which is it HME or MHE? I also have one of Juan’s stainless steel versions. Juan, do you have any written documents showing the hangers listed has MHE?
I have also seen these Marc Hughston hangers which are bent in the opposite direction (mirrored). Not sure who was making them.
|
|
Juan Maderita
Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2015 - 11:54am PT
|
Marty,
I can't say with certainty. My brief conversation with Marc was 25 years ago. I thought it was MHE, for Marc Hughston Enterprises.
Perhaps Marc would get a PM. You could ask him directly.
As to the "mirror image" / opposite bend, I could see how that is possible. As I understood from the machinist, the hangers were stamped with dies from flat sheet metal. Bending was the second step in the manufacturing process. It wouldn't have been too difficult to arrange the jig for an opposite bend. The other possibility is that you viewed a photo or slide that was flipped horizontally. Another question for Marc perhaps?
If you don't get an answer from him, you may be on the chase for that elusive or non-existent hanger to add to your collection!
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
|
See what I mean. I find the HME wordage in many places but it never says what it means. For years I called the HME hanger the Blue Water hanger until I saw a magazine writeup describing the hangers under the title Hughston Manufacturing. I thought to myself that the "M" is not for "Mountain" so what is the "E" stand for...Equipment? So maybe the HME is for Hughston Manufacturing Equipment? Hmmmm.......still a mystery.
Magazine writeup must be mid 1980s since the SMC hanger is listed as stainless steel and Metolius is not mentioned.
-Also Leeper not mentioned.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!