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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 18, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
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So I tried to take some pictures but it was quite epic. Ever try to keep an object the size of a house in frame while it's moving? Not as easy a task as one might think. Anyway, here's a few shots of the Mellonhead, kept in frame as best I could.
A fun seam down by the fire road.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 18, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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After doing the seam we looked right a few feet and saw a micro-crimp problem that didn't appear to have been done before. There are some pretty small crimps on this one. Good problem. JW on "The very small, and the very very small."
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 19, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
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What is it about that Woodson Mountain granodiorite? There are a bunch of plutons in the Peninsular Ranges, but none of them seem to spawn boulders in quite the same way that this pluton does.
I remember my Petrology prof at San Diego State (Walawender, of course, skcreidc), who grew up on the east coast, recalling that the first time he saw the boulders on Woodson, his first reaction was that they were glacial in origin.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 19, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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^^^
Love that talk eeyonkee!
And why all the cracks? One visit there a bunch of years ago, and it's still the stuff of my dreams.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 20, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Eeyonkee, I remember Walawender saying something like that in Petrology. Being from the West coast I couldn't quite grasp where he was coming from on that one. I blame the Woodson boulders on the wide space jointing and the relatively rapid cooling of the melt. Not much coarse grained material there; it seems the pluton was emplaced then cooled in a single relatively smooth event. How's that for arm-waving ;) . If I could throw in a meteor strike in to help with the explanation, I would. The rest is all chemical weathering ala Dr. Peterson; a geology prof who bore a striking resemblance to Phineas Phreak (but in a good way).
Hey, I'm hoping you will come out one of these days and show us how its done again. Hopefully before we are all doing wheelchair starts.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 20, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Feb 8th cleanup update:
Left message again with the Rangers at number provided upthread. Also talked to Poway Parks and REc, who directed me to leave a message at the Blue Sky Reserve Rangers line. Talked to San Diego county parks as well. Warmest lead is the Blue Sky folks, I think. I'll keep trying. This is turning out to be more frustrating than that tight left hand jam before the reach on monkey crack. ;)
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 20, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Update: blue sky reserve said they're pretty sure city of San diego parks can get us in. I'll try maņana.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 20, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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Sweet work LT. Thanks for chasing that down. I'll be down (or is it up? Hell if I know) for Feb 8 trash pick up and bouldering either way.
Friend. Regarding the new bolt on Yoav. The short of it is; Should never have been put in.
The long of it is: The way this bolt ethic was layed out to me in the 80's (if I remember right) was you better have a really friggen good reason if you are going to put in a bolt. Robbins doesn't have a bolt (the bolts are there for Eric's face), Jaws/Baby robbins doesn't have a bolt, hell Elsa's doesn't have a bolt and that thing eats ropes, just have a look inside that crack. All these are similar in setup to Yoav Crack. Also, practicing putting in bolts (where not needed) is not a good reason to put in a bolt. Certainly one can argue about the shades of gray in bolting ethics, but this is about as black and white as you can get. No bolt for Yoav. I'll leave it at that for now.
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:23pm PT
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February 8th Cleanup update:
After many phone calls, the City of San Diego Open Spaces seems to be the place to contact. I'm working out the details with a ranger (i.e. phone tag) as we speak.
Contractor, thanks again for the offer of the truck/bags/dumping. As soon as I have the 100% lock on the date and access, I'll coordinate the time with you and post it here.
For dessert after we work, we can all head over and watch GDavis run laps on Drivin' South, a problem which I'm quite sure, he has ruthlessly wired.
Ruthlessly ;)
Edit: mixed up my bachar finger cracks. Lulzy
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jan 22, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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LT, just take a trip out to the rangers trailer/bungalo out in, where is it, Black Mountain, or Penasquitos? I forget...and see if you can find him on-site. I got the key back in 2010 for the Woodson Reunion from Ranger Ed Christiansen @ 858 538-8082. Sorry I didn't give this sooner.
Edit: looks like you found him?
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Truthdweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA (stuck in Jersey)
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Jan 22, 2015 - 03:02pm PT
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So, about the bolting...
IHMT, Black Finger, Hard As Nails, etc., gonna pull those as well? Convenience bolts if you ask me. Gear and slings do just fine. Bolts came in much later.
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hellcyon
climber
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Jan 22, 2015 - 11:50pm PT
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Hubbard, thanks for sharing your passion, with myself, and anyone else that benefits from the contribution of your topos :)
Learning Trad, nice work towards the cleanup effort, thank you! Did you join efforts with A.C.S.D? They have good experience with these events, and the additional exposure of climbers good will amongst the non climbing community is equally as important as cleaning up the place. If you plan on tackling any graffiti removal within a hundred or so feet of the road and want a trailer mounted pressure washer, lemme know.
Friend, congratulations on your trifecta! Dedicated, inspiring effort towards a dream.
jonnywoodward, the back side of this boulder has a nice Scab of features ...
And Stuff Itt into Muff Itt, that would explain the used condom i found in the cave nearby last year! :P
Henny, the seams crack cleaned up nice on both sides, but we never shoe'd up for the seam itself, nice work. And the face next to it, sweet, if that's your bag there's boatloads of beauties up the hill that we'd just walk a blind eye beyond, that shit's thin! lol
As far as the bolt atop the Yoav crack, i offer this challenge to the person who placed it. Ask around of any and all the climbers you know and don't know who enjoy climbing at Woodson, if they would like to see bolts placed next to cracks on top of their favorite climbs? If you can honestly say the majority of everyone you hear from is in favor of bolting even when unnecessary, then may your bolt stand the test of time. And if not, if most folks prefer to carry a few cams and engineer their own anchors, are you willing to remove your bolt? Take pride in your action, your contribution was sincere. Ask around. I, for one, would rather only use bolts when necessary. I also would rather use a bolt next to a crack, than see a botched bolt removal that was not done really well.
So as not to end on the buzzkill bolting bomb...another photo perhaps.. :)
Happy Trails
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jan 23, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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I'd be a bit surprised if the seam hadn't been done by somebody. There was even a little work already done to terrace the landing, which was nice. Good problem, seemed like a shorter version of Lemon Chiffon.
Re JWs photo: a couple of pictures of the problem he was asking about.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jan 23, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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LearningTrad
Trad climber
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Jan 23, 2015 - 08:55am PT
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I spoke at length with a fantastic ranger-dude, and we discussed logistical issues and his schedule. Long story short, I feel like not doing the feb 8th thing, and joining forces with Josh Higgins ACSD efforts makes the most sense. Josh has already extended the invitation to join, so I think we should. I'm waiting to hear from him if we could use any additional vehicles/etc, and I'm not 100% sure, but 99% sure that his date is March 22nd. Thanks to all for chiming in with contact-beta.
Our motley crew of fools and noobs will be happy to scrub and remove trash along with ACSD - hopefully after we can sneak over and learn some of these NE side secrets. Killing me with the pictures!
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Friend
climber
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Jan 23, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
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Nice Hellcyon! Another drool-inducing crop of photos. Hey, I PMd you and CH recently, check your ST emails and gimme a shout.
Great shots all. Heres a few more to fuel the fire.
JW looking smooth on small holds
JW also looking smooth
Baron on the sweet tips problem
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jan 23, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Went out solo today and explored, then hit the usual spots. Nice day out there.
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Jan 25, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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Ya'll are fluffers yo.
right you are bob-o, and the fatter i get, the fluffer they are. I did all that sh#t in my tennies bitd anyway, and it was easy.
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