Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
|
Eric Jorgeson @ejorgeson · 53m 53 minutes ago
I've just been corrected. Kevin has sent the "Dyno" segment of Pitch 16. #dawnwall
from a Twitter feed linked to "Big Up." One of Kevin's friends, or a relative, I think.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
After a huge, emotional send on pitch 15, @kjorgeson is now battling with 16. The sideways dyno followed by a 14a dihedral. It's dark now, and he's going hard.... Photo by @brettlowell [~6:30pm]
http://instagram.com/p/xqBZBwuzl_/
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Pure joy. Pitch 15 finally went down after 11 attempts over 7 days. Riding high, I stuck the dyno on Pitch 16, but fell in the corner right above the no hands stance. Back to finish that tomorrow. THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone who has followed along, believed and supported us. It's not over yet.
Thanks to Tom Evans for the celebration photo after clipping the anchor on 15. http://www.facebook.com/kjorgeson/posts/429101640576904
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 09:45am PT
|
I think I counted 7 pitches of 5.14 on the topo?
Yeah, this is a big deal ...
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
|
K-JORG (lol) sent the last 5.14 pitch - great job!
Warbler you ever read Caldwells story of the Dihedral wall in Climbing? Issue 234 and a very humbling and impressive account. I read it when I was 19 years old working as a projectionist in a movie theater. I wondered how they got the ropes up there, then, just as I do now ;D
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:03pm PT
|
A naieve question:
Are they following the Mescalito route, a different route?
Are they putting in some new pitches to bypass "impossible" sections?
Whatever the case, this is an awesome project. I sincerely hope that after putting in so much spectacular effort they can finish it.
Are we ready to start a betting pool on how long before a team can do it free and ground up?
|
|
sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
|
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
|
sac
That's sort of helpful. But only sort of.
On a previous page, Impaler posted a pic of the Mescalito route in much more detail.
Your pic is very lacking in detail. So I can't really tell if they're the same.
I presume your pic is the Caldwell-Jorgesen
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
|
Are they following the Mescalito route, a different route?
Are they putting in some new pitches to bypass "impossible" sections?
The features that are good for aiding are different than features good for free climbing. Pretty much every El Cap route takes a slight variation to the original ascent, this one links up a handful of routes on the Dawn Wall area including new ground (5.13+ face climbing pitches etc).
An A0 bolt ladder could be 5.16++++ while a flaring weird offwidth can be 5.6 but A5+ to aid.
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 04:22pm PT
|
GDavis
I had been assuming they are putting in some new sections for precisely the reasons you stated.
I am hoping to find a more definitive answer.
EDIT: by inference from what you said, it may be only vaguely similar to Mescalito. That's pretty much what I had figured last year when they were still working out the route.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
|
Get out the butter; it's toast.
At this point I think I'd be willing to bet on the successful team free ascent.
Brian
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
|
Amazing that the weather has more or less cooperated for such an extended period during winter. I guess it is briefly raining up there tonight, by the way. This all has been deeply moving.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 06:15pm PT
|
Making lemonade outta climate change :P
|
|
Tvash
climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 06:28pm PT
|
Curious - what was the strategy for choosing midwinter for the ascent?
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 08:42pm PT
|
They can grip the holds much better and the rubber sticks better as well in the cold.
Just got word that Kevin sent the last 5.14 pitch (The Dyno pitch, which Tommy circumnavigated via a horrendous down climb spiral pitch) and the following 5.13 pitch (pitches 16 and 17) and now only two more hard (5.13) leads for KJ before Wino Tower (Tommy has already done these pitches) and it's easy - for them - (5.11 and 5.12 X 10 pitches) to the top.
Looking good for a send this time.
JL
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
|
Hopefully finish tomorrow? Been climbing some long classics in Bozeman and haven't kept up. Love to hear they blasted to the top tomorrow. Mike
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
|
10 pitches of 5.11 and 5.12, and that's in the bag?
Yeesh.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
|
Stoked for the men and the wall.
Doubt there will be a long line to repeat this sort of suffering. We should make a pool guessing the year somebody will do a second ascent
if ever
Peace
Karl
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!