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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2014 - 12:28am PT
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Which route was this one from, Ammon?
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Ogden, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2014 - 01:08am PT
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This was the day we did Prodigal Son, Moonlight Buttress and Lunar X, car to car in 12 hours. Hee hee!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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I knew that it would be a good story!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Glad this thread is back - that bit by Mikey Williams is amazing and humbling.
What a powerhouse!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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self.
it's ours to harbor.
thrive it.
beat it.
exhaust it.
extinguish it.
it really is just
a passive existence.
i might be?
i am.
i was!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there, say, filmcookie... oh my, thank you for bearing your love and your heart, on all your treasure, as to your cousin...
you won't be forgotten in prayers...
say,also, i sent you an email, so hope you can check...
god bless...
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Burt
Social climber
Angelus Oaks, Ca
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Ammon was this the trip that the rope bull whipped and hit a certain body part??? Hehehe and just wait until the videos come out... FA of South of Heaven, speed record on Space Shot, or the ever classic "riggers course" in the cave complete with beer, cigarettes, and rope jumps!!! So many memories, so many smiles, so many triumphs, and many defeats. Now heal up Ammon so we both can stop this horse sh#t crying on supertopo and go have a proper adventure that the "dirt bather" would be proud of!!!
I'll never forget talking to you about Brian on moonlight when you guys where going for the record... Something along the lines of it hit you how good he really can free climb. Wasn't he like just basically soloing the corner pitch above the rocker block, with full rack, and just a big loop of rope out from short fixing? I'll never forget that sinister laugh when sh#t got scary and real, and somehow it was just going to get done and we would smile during it all.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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It would be cool to hear about the team speed record on Moonlight Buttress, something like 2 hours for the 9 pitch (?) ascent?
You guys were flying!
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Brian cranked some of the steepest faces and thinnest cracks and nailed up some of the more challenging cliff faces in the world.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 10, 2014 - 06:51am PT
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Non mate was looking and thought that other than good wishes for another fallen hero there,,that no update was good news and went away to find other muse
Pictures and stories walls of rock that IS the best
And my youth fleeting twenty two was that the best ever.
Playing with gravity and winnig with out any fight but just enough terror
To make the innocent play seem heroic getting high from the endevore
Some where in the mix love of all things got the nix
Climbing became the fix and as the friend of the dealer
I did the leading the lines in good style
thirty or forty years hence my veins ruined
I sit on the fence and heckel the MOON
Health fun and love do not poo poo wealth
Hope all is good
I actually slept in and no Rx well
Rare that that happens,I feel safe to climb today
But as alone the level so low and the risk high my chocies
Are limited I don't want to...hope not today care will must be taken
But none that stops fun
Sunny day getting on it
What it is ain't exactly clear
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wildone
climber
EP
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Oct 10, 2014 - 08:32am PT
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Man. Reading these accounts here was good for me and also really hard.
He was my friend. He always made you feel better, you know?
This world, this life, is such a trip. Gonna miss seeing his smile and feeling that crushing handshake.
;(
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 27, 2014 - 04:58pm PT
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Can anyone help in identifying this free route? Sure looks thin.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 27, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Damn this looks sketchy. Brian nailing the second ascent of the first pitch of Nightmare on California Street, El Capitan.
July 2009
I remember calling Brian fairly late that night, thinking he would be done with the pitch. No answer. He called back a few minutes later, halfway up the first pitch, calm, in his zen state. Having the time of his life. Had been too hot to climb during the day so most of the pitch he climbed by headlamp. I guess the route is so technically intense that if you fall anywhere on the first 300' you will likely rip all your protection and hit the ground (or that big spike pillar at the base).
I hope that other, more qualified folks chime in on the significance of this second ascent, solo.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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if you fall anywhere on the first 300' you will likely rip all your protection and hit the ground (or that big spike pillar at the base)
So ...... ????
What does that prove?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Can anyone help in identifying this free route? Sure looks thin. Acid Crack
(5.12d, FA Bachar)
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Werner I have no ground to stand on when it comes to El Cap and have been nowhere near the base of this climb.
From what I remember hearing from my friend Brian, it sounded like this was a rather complex climb on a number of pitches, with deadly consequences if one did not understand thin aid climbing.
My perspective is that the rock didn't kill Brian though he challenged himself on some difficult first ascents and a number of dangerous second ascents. Brian told me he liked to climb other people's routes in order to gauge his skill level.
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the albatross
Gym climber
Flagstaff
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Thanks Greg. That looks like a tough free climb.
if you fall anywhere on the first 300' you will likely rip all your protection and hit the ground (or that big spike pillar at the base)
So ...... ????
What does that prove?
Werner, to me this ascent highlighted the fact that Brian McCray was capable of repeating the most difficult, and dangerous, established aid climbing routes on El Cap. It is my understanding that Brian enjoyed climbing the most extreme lines on the formation, often completing the ascent in under twenty four hours, quite a few times onsight. From the comfort of my couch these appear to be rather serious affairs and he had his systems dialed and got the job done, quickly.
I recall fragments of a conversation about the Wall of Early Morning Light, and his successful attempt at climbing it in a day. It sure would be cool to share that story with the world.
There are people that should chime in now, to help preserve Brian's incredible El Cap legacy of speed ascents.
During this time period Brian established more than a rack full of long, complex aid and free big wall climbs in the sands of the desert. As well as scores of difficult short routes on sandstone and limestone.
Werner, to delve deeper into your query, "So, what does that prove?" is to dive far into the psyche of Brian and how he lived his life during the decade we were pals. It doesn't prove anything at all is the short answer.
"Nothing means anything" is how Brian used to end his letters.
That's as far down the hole as I can go tonight.
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horsethief
Social climber
Japatul, CA
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Oct 29, 2014 - 08:39pm PT
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Albert, I want to thank you for all you have contributed to this memorial thread of Flyin Brian. I have appreciated all the pics from everyone and all the stories. I have never felt you were trying to "prove" anything, only remember a friend for what he is.
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Flo Rogers
climber
LasVegas
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Wanted to get this in the thread here. I took this August 2013. So grateful that Jim made it to the celebration of Brian's life one year later.
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