Everest Avalanche

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Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 22, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
I fear high Traverse has noted the bigger issue which will only get worse, and that is the melting of the Himalayan glaciers due to global warming.

I fear, there will be many more avalanches and serac falls as a result.

edit: Along these lines, Peak Freakes has just written this,


"The fate of this climb is not just a political decision, it's Mother Nature who calls the shots and that's why we are having this conversation in the first place.

As a professional member of the Canadian Avalanche Association I have my educated concerns. The mountain has been deteriorating rapidly the past three years due global warming and the breakdown in the Khumbu ice-fall is dramatic, especially at the upper icefall. We need to learn more about what is going on up there. Each day we sit and listen to the groaning and crashing of the glacier. Political grievances aside, we are not here to kill people".

Tim Rippel
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 22, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
Yeah High Traverse, but probably attributable to body heat and flatulence rather than global warming.
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
Excerpt from New Yorker story above is from Jon Krakauer
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
The truly scary thing about Guck's photo is the total lack of snow and ice on the Hilary Step.

Sounds like the first ascent description, except that the picture doesn't show 40' of difficulty.

KETCHUM, Idaho — SIXTY years ago this week, as Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay approached the summit of the world’s highest mountain, they were stopped by a 40-foot wall of rock and ice. It was, Hillary later wrote, “a formidable looking problem ...We realized that at this altitude it might well spell the difference between success and failure.
Employing the skills he had learned in the New Zealand Alps, Hillary jammed his feet, hands and shoulders into a thin crack between a ridge of ice and the rock and, as he put it, “levered myself” up the wall. Then he brought Tenzing up on a tight rope, and together they climbed the final 300 feet to become the first humans to stand on the summit of Mount Everest.


http://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/01/opinion/the-right-way-to-do-the-hillary-step.html?_r=0
John M

climber
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
Are there any other mountains in that area?

I'm not a mountaineer. I know that there is a lot of disdain for what has become of climbing Everest.

But the above statement is what I was thinking. If I had paid to go climb Everest and there was a tragedy like what just happened, or like 2 years ago when one company decides it is too dangerous, then what other mountain would be a great adventure. I'm not suggesting K2, as I know it is much more difficult, but I don't know these high peaks.

So what would be cool to climb near there? And wouldn't require anything beyond what Everest would require for the climbers, since some call the route up Everest a walk up. I understand that it is not, but it does seem to require less technical skills then other mountains.



For myself I would care less about the height, and more about the adventure and the magnificence. A friend of mine climbed Ama Dablam and she said is was spectacular. I know that it is quite a bit lower then Everest, but as I said, I care less about that.

So what say you? And should the guiding companies offer something else if this season is shut down?

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
Lohtse and Nupste aren't any easier. Some say harder.

The normal route on Lotse is the same start as Sagarmatha.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
People also forget how close to the equator the Himalayas are.Maybe the long term solution is to move the main climbing season to the late fall and early winter. That would certainly go a long way toward eliminating the crowds.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
I doubt they'd be able to get the permit in time to make a change for the current climbers. You don't get 7000m+ peak permits overnight in Nepal.
John M

climber
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:36pm PT
Ah yes, the permit requirement would have shut down that company that decided not to climb Everest because of the danger a few years ago. Thems the breaks. But this year if all the Sherpas decide that they won't climb Everest, then maybe the gov could be persuaded to shift the permits.

Just thinking out loud. I understand that I am ignorant on this part of the world but if I was there, and had made all of that commitment, I would certain want to get on something.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
It's time to skip the icefall by using cargo type helicopters to carry all supplies & people from the Base Camp to a forward camp above it.

I disagree. It's time to skip all of the risk and build an underground, heated elevater to the summit, with a nice little coffee and pastry shop on the summit where you can sit and enjoy the view in absolute safety and comfort.

Who the hell would want to slog past corpses, sh#t piles and oxygen tanks? What is the fun in that anyways?


Personally, I enjoy digging through piles of frozen sh#t to set up my tent on piles of frozen sh#t. Isn't that what mountaineering is all about?

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 22, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Personally, I enjoy digging through piles of frozen sh#t to set up my tent on piles of frozen sh#t. Isn't that what mountaineering is all about?

Well, it's certainly a lot better than when it isn't frozen.
jstan

climber
Apr 22, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
What I would not give for a high altitude AirCrane. We need about 30 million.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 22, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
I flew over Aconcacua in a DC-3 at age 8.

Does that count?
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Apr 22, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
Wouldn't Nuptse and Lohtse be obvious back up targets?
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
crag man wrote:
Climbing Everest has become such a sh*tshow....I can't imagine being around that many people on a mountain. To me, the prestige is simply not worth it.

If I were to head over there, it would be for one of the lesser peaks with no crowds, in order to have a true adventure.

First on my list....Ama Dablam.

Ama Dablam is getting pretty crowded too.

I'm not sure some here appreciate the logistics involved in planning and executing a group on a HImalayan peak. It is pretty mind boggling and even more difficult if you don't have a Nepali organization assisting. It'd be near impossible to just up and change your objective. It'd be one thing if it were just you and a few friends/clients, but there are so many other people, supplies, logistics, time, and red tape involved that it'd be really difficult.

Nuptse and Lhotse would require separate permits, Lohste shares the same approach/bottom path as does the S. Col of Everest.
Ken M

Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
Apr 22, 2014 - 07:59pm PT
So I heard on NPR a few minutes ago, the Sherpa have decided to call off the climbing of Everest for this year.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 22, 2014 - 08:01pm PT
Looks as if this season is finished.

Most Sherpa mountain guides have decided to leave Mount Everest, a guide told the Associated Press on Tuesday. The walkout comes after at least 13 Sherpas died in an avalanche Friday – Everest's deadliest disaster.

Earlier Tuesday, Nepal's government appeared to have agreed to some of the Sherpas' demands in the threatened boycott, such as setting up a relief fund for Sherpas who are killed or injured in climbing accidents, but the funding fell well short of what the Sherpas wanted.

The Nepal National Mountain Guide Association in Kathmandu will try to negotiate with the Sherpas and the government because a total boycott would harm Nepal's mountaineering in the long term, the group's general secretary, Sherpa Pasang, said.

After a memorial service at base camp Tuesday, the Sherpas in the camp discussed their options, said guide Dorje Sherpa, who attended. He said most of them were planning to pack and leave as early as Wednesday.

"It is just impossible for many of us to continue climbing….There are three of our friends buried in the snow, I can't imagine stepping over them. We want to honor the members we lost, and out of respect for them we just can't continue," he said.
http://america.aljazeera.com/articles/2014/4/22/sherpas-everest-leave.html

The Sherpa could still change their minds but it sounds as if they're really shaken. Not surprisingly.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 22, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Okay time for the First World guides and clients (sorry, members) to cowboy up and soldier on. It's a perfect place for an intensive snow school and nearly all of the "members" come from democracies so taking turns kicking steps shouldn't be a problem. Meal preparation shouldn't be too tough once they learn to factor in the low boiling temperature for water but those tents are sort of complicated...taking them down is far easier then setting them back up.

Oops...forgot the load carrying. I suspect most of the members were "heavy lifters" at their companies so that should work out.....might run out of oxygen though.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
Jim, don't forget team building and bonding.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Apr 22, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
Good to hear that the Sherpas are standing firm on their demands and heading home.

Hopefully, people make the most of the break from this madness and come back with a smaller sustainable way to approach climbing Mt Everest.

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