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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:22pm PT
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+1 on Desperado.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
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I was gonna say Mr. Clean 5.11 at Devils Tower Sustained 1" crack.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
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This is a photo of my friend Katie.... She asked me how to become a rock climber after she had done a few climbs.
I told her to go to the Valley for 30 days, climb as much as she could... by the end of that month she had swing leads on Nutcracker and had done Snake Dike- camp4 to camp4 in a day.
A few weeks later..... we were in TM and I told her... lets go climb this,, its only 5.6,,, but it will let you know if you want it... to become a real rockclimber.
She stood there for a long while... and she went for it... and of course she made it.
Thats a TEST PIECE
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:37pm PT
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When I think testpiece, I think of routes that are testpieces for their grade. So I guess calling them sandbags could work too. I also think testpiece routes carry a heavier mental challenge than their peers.
A perfect description for anything Ron Carson put up.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
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Great photo of Ron. And yes, that does look like not much. Amazing to look so casual when he's one of a few that can even get there.
I'm happy to see climbs that I have gotten to the top of, and saddened by the ones I haven't (but not without trying!).
I remember Warbler telling a story about his first outing with the Bird on the Left Side of the Remnant. Now that scared me away!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 15, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
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Great photo of Ron.
If you're referring to my post, that's not Ron. He wouldn't have stood round long enough to get the camera focused.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 16, 2017 - 02:19pm PT
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Carson Kodas is a testpiece at it's grade for sure. Ron Carson and Vaino Kodas working together is either a dream or a nightmare depending on your point of view.
I never thought about cutting your rope up there, but if you fall off the left side of the arete (don't friggin' do that) I suspect all bets would be off.
It's one of the best short rock climbs I've ever done. Perfect rock, spectacular setting and exposure, wild and heady...
I proved my singular lack of common sense by doing it several times. As I said on the SP comments I also backed off it more than once when I wasn't feeling the love or it was hot. It's in a bit of a reflector oven so it it can be very pleasant down below and cooking hot on the route.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 16, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
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This is a testpiece.... Seam Stress 12c .... and Kris was a stand up guy and put in a retro bolt just to keep the rest of us off of the deck.
I wonder if this even gets done anymore.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 16, 2017 - 04:54pm PT
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- Jules Verne to Lene's Dream to the Naked Edge, Eldo. It's 'only' 5.11b/c ;-)
 Terrorvision, The Needles. 'Only' 5.11 and only 1 pitch ;-)
Primrose Dihedrals, Moses, Canyonlands, 5.11c/d. Pretty good tower value.
Don Juan Wall or Atlantis, The Needles, 5.11b/c. Awesome routes, sustained.
Middle Age Crazy, Josh, 5.11c. Will keep your attention, have only followed this.
Smith-Crawford Route, Middle Cathedral, 5.11d. Filled my shorts after the first 5 or 6 pitches, didn't even do the crux...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 16, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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Middle Age Crazy, Josh, 5.11c. Will keep your attention, have only followed this.
That route is the real deal. Very exciting.
Terrorvision is two pitches unless you have a 100+M rope.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 17, 2017 - 10:28am PT
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Uncle Fanny 5.7
You sir are barred from this discussion.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 17, 2017 - 11:29am PT
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Kingtut.... I think "one Mans testpiece is another mans death route"
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Feb 18, 2017 - 09:39am PT
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I think Aerial Book on Rincon Wall in Eldo would fit in the sub .12 club. I just remember putting in a whole bunch of Crack n' Ups to protect it back in the 70's.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 18, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Those Crack 'n Ups were pretty good in the right places. For the longest time there was one fixed on P1 of Peg Leg/Ankles Away at the CA Needles. Then one time I went over to run that rig and it was gone. Changed things up a little bit.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 18, 2017 - 02:59pm PT
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Was just wondering if someone had mentioned the Naked Edge - glad to see it make it into the conversation.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Feb 18, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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Kodas/Carson is wicked good,,,semi-serious and hard...a sweet route. We did it after a session in JT and it was full value.
I'll chime in Autobahn..11C...not sure about that...long runs, hard climbing and perfect stone...YES
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 18, 2017 - 03:23pm PT
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This one is fun in EB's.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Feb 18, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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Mike Waugh has done the Bachar Yerian 5 times without a fall, anyone else?
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Feb 18, 2017 - 08:40pm PT
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