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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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merchrist,
get off this lame non nondescript bs. I am revealing some history of what goes on before the climb makes it to the guidebook.
Please state the comparison you see--the one you causing your annoyment? Some vague language by you makes for a non-sense posting.
Put up some routes and let's know what you have learned other than what goes on in the gym.
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ruppell
climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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I just reread the article the Rgold linked on page three. I'll emphasize some words that make it appear that there was more than one person videoing the act. Even if I was alone I would have no problem confronting someone in that situation. It's a pretty rash jump to assume someone who would chip would also attack someone for being called out on it. Either way I'm glad they got proof of who it was.
Recently on a snowy day, the ring of hammer and chisel on stone rang out, and the climbers were able to film a person in the act of altering the rock. What, exactly, they caught on film is debatable. Sometimes, when establishing rock climbs, a dangerous flake is pried loose to prevent injuries to future climbers. Sometimes that loose flake is 'scored' with a chisel so that when it breaks, it leaves a handhold, and sometimes holds are blatantly created with the use of tools.
The local climbers presented the video to DPM with the request that they remain anonymous. "We don't want this to come off as a personal attack," they said. "We've tried speaking with the person and it obviously hasn't had an effect. Our intent isn't malicious, we just want this to stop happening to our boulders."
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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As for the cameraman....well I don't blame him for staying quiet and just filming. Would you risk provoking or incensing someone who is wielding a hammer??
The way he was swinging it I doubt A) that he could even hit me and B) if he did, it wouldn't even welt.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Reminded by Royal's dictum back in the late Seventies or so:
"Sport climbing is the child that wants to eat its mother"
Chippers have really lost touch
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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Either way I'm glad they got proof of who it was.
Confronting and spraying is just so much internet hearsay compared to the outright effectiveness of the video. Tell Edelrid Ivan is chipping and nothing happens, show them a video of him chipping and sh#t happens.
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prickle
Gym climber
globe,az
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
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he'd be walking around with that hammer sticking out of his arse if he so much as looked at me wrong.i outweigh him by at least 50 lbs.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
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Put up some routes and let's know what you have learned other than what goes on in the gym.
I've put up far more bp's than routes... upwards of 400 in the last decade. I never had the need or desire to put up spurt routes... I grew up in SLC, plenty of skilled and motivated people willing to do the work. "Putting up" easy trad is just a matter of wandering around stuffing cams in cracks and not killing my gf with loose rock... and I find that boring as sh#t.
I know what it takes to clean up a bp, and I know it don't take a hammer and chisel... EVER.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
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The force a hammer and chisel puts on a hold is what, a few dozen times the weight of a fat climber? I could apply the same force he was using to a hundred old school classics at josh and bust off most bomber flakes. Think of funking...
Wes, do you have one of those fancy rigs with a cliffhanger hook on the end of a telescoping pole w/a fatty brush? Typicall all i've seen to bust off fragile edges up high, a taped aid hook.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
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Watching the video there's beyond no doubt this guy is manufacturing holds.
If one is so stupid to believe some total bullsh!t that there's only cleaning up being done here then you're dreaming.
Cleaning up and manufacturing holds can easily be discerned by the actions of how the tools are being used against the object/s.
There are tools visible being used in the video evidence that point easily beyond "just cleaning up" along with the glue.
"Just cleaning up" is a simple semantics tactic of words to hide behind contrary to the evidence in the video.
The locals obviously have been objecting to this persons actions for some time.
This is why it has been presented by them as evidence of proof.
Whether it's acceptable or not is up to you people since you hold the future of your sport, lifestyle and climbing in your hands .....
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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My rig is pretty simple. I have no metal hook on my telescoping pole, just a clip.
I clip a brush or stick to the end and clean what I can reach. I've only rapped a couple boulders for cleaning purposes.
I usually have a couple areas of interest and visit them when the snow is deep and I can reach the tops... or clean them on the send.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
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...and so goes around loaded with STDs.
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
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Ok boys.
I'm new to the chipping scene, can someone explain to me:
What's the glue for?
Also, I'm appalled that the gloves have only gotten 4-5 posts. I think we should start another thread so that violation doesn't get lost in this chipping mayhem.
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wivanoff
Trad climber
CT
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
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What's the glue for?
In case one "cleans" too aggressively...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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Has anyone checked the rocks in Central Park lately? They must be taking a real beating.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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healyje
central park rocks are about 40% epoxy at this point. not from chipping but from things breaking off under "normal wear and tear". however now that yuki isn't around my guess is that if it breaks off it stays off these days. unless someone else has taken over the task.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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Huh? I've met Ivan Greene. He's a really strong boulderer. Strange that with all of the climbing he can do, he would choose to chip. Climbing rocks is so much more fun than construction.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 21, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
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Maybe the chipping that goes on will stop when a/the crowd "watching" kicks the shite out of the person doing it to set an example for the rest...
...I doubt that either will happen, but it would be interesting to see it play out.
Remember, folks; NO ONE has freed the Nose on El Cap without using the Jardine Traverse!!!!1111
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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Feb 21, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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not that I'm gay or anything but I gotta say the little guy is kinda cute when he swings that GIANT hammer
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 21, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
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This post is slowing down..let's get some more inflammatory statements on here!
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username
climber
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Feb 21, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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Regardless of what you think about chipping, dude swings a hammer like a bitch.
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