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neverwas
Mountain climber
ak
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Yesterday from near the Hayes range...
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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neverwas,
Wow, I just love your photos. That part of the Alaska Range is so wild and remote. There's a thread on ST somewhere talking about climbing Mt Hayes BITD, the long vicious approach, the total commitment, etc.
So next for Garvey fans, and with winter approaching, I found more photos. One local ice climb on the Seward Highway is "Roadside Attraction", about 100' of vertical ice. The down side to the climb is, as the name implies, being right on the road...60mph traffic right next to your belayer.
Anyhow, went down the highway early one Sunday after a major snow dump. Garv led Roadside Attraction and of course made it look easy. He set up a top rope and first Sweeney then myself went up. A young fella, one of dozens who Garv took in to climb with, came by and he took a turn also.(That wasn't you was it Skinny?).
Sweeney did some soloing to keep warm.
What was great about the day is that after 4 people climbing that 100 feet of ice, I don't remember one car coming by. Just before we left, the train came up the tracks clearing it with a snowplow for a classic photo op.
As usual, my photography skills were weak, but at least the camera was cheap. But this does show Garv in his prime, doing what he did better than near anyone alive.
Here's where Sweeney took his turn, with Garvey belaying
Some shots of Sweeney staying warm
And then there is the other "Roadside Attraction".
Right after I took a turn climbing, Garvey yells, "The Train, the train!".
I ran across the road and barely got this shot of the train clearing the snow after the major dump of the night before.
On a side note while thinking of the Alaska Railroad, these were the days when Gorilla Rock was still there, before the Alaska RR blew it up with dynamite to keep climbers off the tracks...a few miles East from this spot.
I have a couple more days left to dig out old photos for Prezwoodz historical documentation. Stay tuned Alaskans and others.
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Wonderful, wonderful photos!
Thank you for posting them!
feralfae
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Arch Angel Valley,
It was sometime in the mid 90's, Talkeetna Mountains, Hatcher Pass, late summer, somewhat long days, drizzle and rain. Garv and I drove up to Arch Angel Valley and we parked near the old climber's cabins, hiking up the left side of the formation to what I think is the White Spot area.
Garv wanted to put up a new route that started left of the toe, up to a roof, traversing right under the roof, up over the right end of the roof and straight up to a nice belay stance.
The sequence is in the following photos. Stoppers and cams were used until above the roof where Garv drills some bolts up to the belay stance.
It drizzled off and on and we got back to my car about 10:00pm.
Garv packs for the hiking and climbing.
Arch Angel main wall before the earthquake of 2003 or 2004 changed the old guidebook.
Prepping
Housecleaning
Traverse
Bolts
More bolts
Belay stance, organize...Hey Skinny, you can see your famous Bosch drill bottom of photos.
Rapping off. I went first and took these as Garv rapped. You get a good overview of the climb. Garv's wearing the wrong colors for this dark rock (granite?)
Back to my car, with overviews of the area climbed, and historic shots of both old cabins
Well, Garv was on a roll, he didn't want to go all the way back to Anchorage and he had a very understanding angel of a wife.
He knew an old friend of Lynn's from New Hampshire, who lived off the Hatcher Pass road just as you got back down into the Valley, so it was pretty close.
He had one of the early "brick" cellphones and we barely had coverage, so he made a call to Bev.
Bev was older than us, may have been in her late 50's, early 60's back then, with grown sons and she lived alone.
I could hear the conversation and she told Garv, "No you can't come and stay here, I am already in bed and I need to get up early".
Garv had an uncanny and charming persistence that could change the mind of anyone.
Bev finally gave in and said, "I'll be in bed, here's where I hide the key, and above all, don't make any noise!!!!".
We arrived near 11:30 or so. It was late summer so it was just getting dark.
Trying to find the key, Garv was tripping over rakes, knocking down flower pots and creating all kinds of commotion while I was just cringing at the spectacle.
Finally Bev opens the door and sighs "Come on in".
She says "you guys can sleep on the living room floor".
She points to the kitchen and says "help yourself to anything in the fridge".
Bev also had a greenhouse where she grew her own "Matanuska Thunderf##k.
She brought in a tray of her home grown and said "help yourselves".
Next morning she made us coffee, we visited for awhile and soon we were heading back up to Arch Angel Valley to head for the Lost Wall area.
Stay tuned
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Lost wall area
Sunday morning, after coffee, breakfast and a visit, we left Bev's house for Arch Angel valley. We parked in the same spot and hiked up toward the Lost Wall area.
Maybe it's called Aurora slab, not sure, but there are a series of slabs that Garvey and Sweeney developed over the years.
I don't remember the name of the slab we climbed on that day.
We climbed one pitch to "the pillbox", a nice ledge tucked in under the wall overhanging us and keeping us dry from the drizzle.
We had some sandwiches that Bev made for us and we took our time, enjoying the view, the really cool "pillbox", and the solitude. Around the corner, Garv took his famous Bosch drill and began working the new route. I bravely belayed from the comfort of the dry pillbox. I didn't take a lot of pictures because of the drizzle. The day went by too fast and we descended as it grew dark, slipping and sliding downhill over the wet grass.
To start,we hiked up past the White spot wall and came across this old mining compressor. Lots of gold mining in the Talkeetnas.
We climbed one pitch of easy to moderate and came into "the pillbox". Great views of the surrounding mountains and some great views of the other slabs. As we regrouped, paused for a refreshment and ate sandwiches that Bev made for us, Garv told me tales of putting up routes on the slabs with Sweeney.
Garv then went around the corner while I belayed. He began developing the 2nd pitch. The drizzle was non-stop and Garv wasn't getting much purchase with sticky rubber. I was belaying and trying to figure out what to take pictures of where I could stay dry.
I soon followed in the wet and drizzle. It wasn't much fun and we rappelled back down to the pillbox. We paused for more refreshments, then packed up everything except gear for the last rappel.
I have told this story before on the Sweeney thread, but I will cut and paste it here. A classic story that illustrates the status that Garvey and Sweeney had on other climbers in those days:
Back in the 90's, Sweeney and Garvey were like the Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid of Alaskan climbing. Sweeney and Garvey, Garvey and Sweeney. You couldn't hear one name without the other in the same sentence. They would rag each other constantly like a married couple and it was hilarious. I am just a gumby climber so I felt privileged to hang with them.
One summer weekend I climbed with Garvey up in Arch Angel Valley in the Talkeetnas. We came down from the backside of the mountain to the old climbers cabin across the creek. It must have been late cause it was getting dark and you could see lights in the cabin and a blue tarp shelter outside the door in the slow drizzling rain. We poked our heads inside to see about a dozen young college climbers with an instructor who was maybe 25 years old.
The instructor started asking us questions and to impress his students he puffed his chest and asked "So, while you guys were up by the Lost Wall, did you see Garvey?"
We just glance at each other, grinned and Garv humbly says "Well, my name's Garvey".
The instructor got uncomfortable and said "No, I mean the Garvey that climbs with Sweeney".
Garv once again humbly says "Well, I climb with Sweeney".
Now with his ruse unraveling he stutters, "No, I mean the Garvey that works at Alaska Mountaineering Hardware".
Garv, gracious as ever says "Oh, I don't work there, must be the other Garvey".
By this time I have retreated outside laughing. The kids now began to enthusiastically hammer Garv with all kinds of questions. The instructor soon meekly retreated outside under the tarp. I felt badly for him and while Garv was conducting an impromptu clinic inside, I made small talk with the hapless instructor. Soon his confidence returned and he finally puffed his chest and asked: "So, while you guys were up by the Lost Wall, did you see Sweeney?"
It was all I could do to hold my tongue, my laugh and NOT say "Well, my name's Sweeney".
Here are some shots showing the Lost Wall Area where we climbed (I don't even know what the Lost Wall is, I only use because that's what the young climbing instructor was referring to).
One more shot of Garv next to the relic.
It was a great weekend with some memorable moments that only Garvey could have produced. I know many here who have climbed with him know exactly what I am talking about.
Looking for some photos of Middle Glacier Canyon. Stay tuned
Edit: Prezwoodz, feel free to use any of these photos for your documentation. I'm just happy to dig these out and share them after all these years. Garvey and Alaska is a part of all of us.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Thanks a lot Larry! These are some seriously awesome treasures! Please keep digging, this thread just keeps getting better and better.
I've seen that Pillbox area you're talking about! I'm almost positive I know exactly where that is. I had heard that he went up there but nobody seemed to know who with. Thats awesome.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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These next series of Garvey photos bring back some great memories and some sadness as well. He was the most gracious and generous man I ever knew, the most fun to hang with and always a great wit with a unique perspective. We're all similar peas in a pod compared to the unique character of Garv.
Garv's beautiful young daughter Lindsey was spending the weekend at her mother's house so I stayed overnight in her bedroom for an early start. Suddenly Garvey woke me up with a big smile on his face, a cup of java in his hand and said, "you ready to roll buddy?" It was 3:00AM.
It was mid summer with a clear sky and it never really got dark. We drove down the highway toward Portage, sharing java, other 'treats' and watching a brilliant sunrise. There were no other cars on the road and we drove without talking.
Suddenly Garv says "They're missing it."
I said "What?"
He said "They're missing it." and his eyes twinkled mischievously.
I understood.
We continued on without words, lost in our own thoughts and enjoying the splendor of the scenery and the rare solitude of the Seward highway.
Rounding a bend we had to suddenly slow down as two drunk teenagers were walking and staggering in the middle of the highway right toward us. They looked at us, we looked at them, we waved and drove on. Without saying a word, we began to laugh hysterically for several minutes. No punchlines were necessary.
It's about a 40 minute approach to the climbing and the normally chilly and windy glacier canyon felt eerily calm and warm. It turned out to be a great day of hard climbing.
These photos show the second pitch of Hard Man in the Middle Glacier Canyon area where Garvey died 3 or 4 years later.
This was the hardest climbing I ever did.
Garv had earlier stuffed the thin razor sharp crack that starts the 2nd pitch with stoppers and left them there for aiding this section.
Normally this type of section would be a moderate layback, or finger jam, but the rock was sharp as a knife and at that time we hadn't figured out how to free it. I think he must have come back later and freed that section. Here's the pictures.
Garv preps his gear for extending to the 2nd pitch of Hard Man, one of his classic projects.
Starting up the 1st pitch.
Moving to 1st pitch belay.
Prepping for the 2nd pitch, damn fat finger.
It was a beautiful Sunday. The RR tracks through the first Portage tunnel are over and behind Garv's head.
Here's the aid section with the razor sharp splitter crack.
Past the aid section and moving to place a bolt.
Damn fat finger.
An early selfie, trying to get a shot up canyon to the glacier. Nice water reflection. Did we all have porn mustaches back then?
Garv placing a bolt.
Garv placing another bolt.
Garv working it some more.
Some time later, rappelling back down. I stopped taking photos once I started climbing. This stuff kicked my butt.
Continue rappel.
Garv gears down.
Packed up and heading back, with one last look at the days work, shadows growing long and feeling the bite of the light breeze.
The hike back down and out of the canyon.
The walk alone is worth it. The climbing makes it super special.
I think this section is now so overgrown, I don't recognize it anymore.
Looking back up the canyon. I think Hard Man is on the middle buttress.
Garv, probably not far from where his ashes were spread.
God I hate that Middle Glacier razor sharp rock now. RIP dear friend. Rarely does a person's departure leave such a hole in the hearts of so many. For Lynn, the kids, the parents, the family, it was devastating and changed many lives forever.
I remember talking to the Garvey family over several days after the funeral. Not one of them had any idea of his climbing exploits, no clue at all. They thought he just did his thing like everyone else and were shocked at the headline on the front page of the Anchorage Daily News.
Garv climbed for the purist of reasons and never sought fame. He loved people no matter if they were climbers, sedentary types or nerds. He just didn't suffer fools.
Aside from his climbing exploits, which were prodigious, he will be remembered for the unique, creative, generous, witty, funny, and kind personality he was.
That may be most of my photos of climbing with Garv in Alaska. I've run out of time for now, but it was great having the momentum to post these.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Oct 11, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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Larry thank you so much for finding as many as you have. We'll happily gobble up what you have left if you find anymore!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Garvey was the real deal. I met him the first time in the Eklutna parking lot when I was 17 or so. Headed out to solo in the canyon on a cold day. He and partner shared some shnapps and advice with me that day, and kept me from soloing by inviting me to join them for the day. He was a true technician of the vertical.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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Thanks uncle larry
Good reminder to try and live up to the garv
So easily forgotten
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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Have I mentioned how much I love this thread? ")
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
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5 pitch clip up with narly river crossings and brutal hike!
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
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100 holes!
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:00pm PT
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Unrepeated 5.10+
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
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If u make it to pitch 1 ur a stud!
If u make it to pitch 4
"Kryptonite" should be no prob
10d if ur bachar
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
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Seems like right up ur alley ffffffg
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:20pm PT
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Been wanting to check out the King Mtn action... Headed to Red rocks tonight.... It'll have to wait til spring. I'll pay you in beer for a guided tour in the spring.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Oct 11, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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