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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Dec 21, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Oh my goodness! For a bunch of folks who claim to be free spirits, lovers of nature, pureness and aesthetics, herbal teas and colonics, you guys sure are hate mongers....We are all doomed.
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peter croft
climber
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Dec 21, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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You guys are being weirdly harsh on Scott. Giving him grief for, uh, spelling out the definition of free soloing? I remember when Greg soloed Pipeline up in Squamish. I didn't believe it at first - couldn't believe it. I think it would be accurate to say were all shell shocked. Now if he had taken a bit of gear to clip in it would have gone from unbelievable to just a really good effort.
Scott used me and the fixed sling/thing on the Rostrum as an example and it's a good one. I didn't place the sling and I didn't grab it but I moved it so that I might snatch at it if I slipped off. At the time I thought it was a little shady - by the summit I couldn't think of much else - and as I bicycled back down through the Wawona tunnel I felt like a complete dag.
Neurotic maybe, but once in a long while you find an idea that's so singular you want perfection. PeeWee Herman once said that "Everyone has a big "but"" and it's so true. I didn't want the Rostrum to be mine.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 21, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Peter wrote:
You guys are being weirdly harsh on Scott.
Who was being hard on him? You might have flamed him the worst by writing
Cool that is, until Coz had to go and bust me on the whole sling on the Rostrum thing. Thanks a lot Scott for bringing up the painful memories.
Somebody wrote
Soloing was so common that Coz's nit picking is kinda funny.
And somebody else wrote he was the "free soloing police" (police bust people)
Long timers will understand we have a harsher standard for "Harsh" on super topo, I'm not sure what a "nit" is but it must be a nasty thing to pick! (and some folks were probably just ribbing him a bit)
Peace
Karl
Edit: but of course he is technically correct. It brings up the question. Soloists have been some of the climbers claiming to be not motivated by competition but rather the freedom and unencumbered nature of the act. The "used a sling" technique is mostly an issue when you're keeping track and feeling competitive. (fine with me, I like Hans, just putting it out there)
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peter croft
climber
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Dec 21, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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Karl - Do you think that it's possible I might have been joking?
Scott seemed to get it and it should be fairly obvious from my post above.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 21, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
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"If some one claimed the first solo of Astroman and clipped a 9 foot sling at the crux of the changing corners, is that cool."
Sure it is, it's cool ...
Solo means using gear and or rope.
"Free Solo" means no gear and rope ...... heh heh heh
:-)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 21, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Someday somebody will invent something like Potter's chute, like extreme emergency stick to the wall spiderweb stuff that flies out of a pocket to make all this safe, but then does that take the challenge away? Maybe it's more about freedom than challenge. It's about Rock Love. If somebody wears a chute is it really a free solo? It's dangerous just talking to you guys.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
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It's called freebasing mchale!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Dec 21, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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By spiderweb stuff I mean something that grabs the rock, not the air. So it's already been determined it's not free solo then. Damn, I'm going to have to go back and do a bunch of sh#t over.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Dec 21, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Back in the days when I was hang gliding, some of the cooler pilots had a rocket powered parachute for times of complete wing failure. It looked like a little bazooka. Seems plausible that one could design a lightweight rocket powered chute, perhaps accelerometer activated, that would fire off a parachute 10 metres behind the falling climber and effectively yard him/her away from the cliff.
Werner, I never really used "free solo" back in the day. One was either "roped-soloing" (which included big-wall soloing) or just "soloing", which generally meant no ropes, harness, gear, etc.
I think we would have sounded like geeks if we said, "Hey Werner, let's go free-solo Reeds today."
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Dec 21, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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It's only 5.7 if you find the route!
lol, this is one of the more memorable experiences you can have in rock climbing ... getting off route and lost while soloing. This happened to me once when I went straight up on snake dike instead of traversing on the third pitch.
Once I was climbing a dome in Tuolomne with my girlfriend who was a novice climber. It was probably a 5.6 or 5.7 slab. I clipped a few bolts but it was pretty run out, next thing I know I'm in the middle of this slab and she says I'm almost out of rope. I head over to a seam in the rock but it doesnt' take gear. Then the rope goes taught. I can see the seam is opening up about 10 feet higher, at least I think so. For whatever reason I made the decision to simul climb, instead of downclimb. It was probably just laziness. My friend doesnt seem to realize the predicament and is having a hard time pulling the first moves to get off the ground onto the route. She keeps trying and then backing off. She finally does it and I start plugging in rp's. Up I go. UP ROPE she's screaming at me. She seems to think she's on belay. Then I finally get to the anchor. I have no idea why my rope didnt reach it in the first place.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 22, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
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Peter wrote
Karl - Do you think that it's possible I might have been joking?
Scott seemed to get it and it should be fairly obvious from my post above.
Of course, and I put that in my post. None of the other responses to Coz were any "harsher" though and I was just taking note of that. Nobody was very harsh
That's all
Maybe when Coz and you were calling people on being harsh, that was sorta in fun too.
That's the thing on email and the net, we don't get the tone so misundertstandings are easy to have.
Peace
Karl
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peter croft
climber
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Dec 22, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Jim
There was no sugar coating it - I tried.
Wait... who took my picture!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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What a heck of a thread this turned out to be. Thanks every one who posted relevant comments and shared insightful stories of OnSight Free Soloing on the Sentinel and beyond.
Peter; it sure is great to have you around the virtual campfire sharing tales, but you missed out on one hell of a real camp fire with a bunch of frost back hosers you hung around back in day up here in Squamish, as well as a small representation of the younger crowd.
You should come up for next years solstice... Or our next psychedledge party!
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peter croft
climber
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Dec 22, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Thanks Mr. Cormier
I wish I could've joined the party. I made do with watching Bob and Doug's The Twelve Days of Christmas on YouTube (it was actually kind of awesome). I think I might have almost met you when I was up in Vancouver recently - I was telling a bunch of lies about Mt Waddington and you walked by and totally snobbed me. Can't believe you did that. Oh well - next time I see you I think you owe me a bag of Cheezies (we don't get them down in California).
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 22, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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That was definitely Luke! He told me about that! He was all like, 'yeah, saw Peter Croft, don't have time for that guy though!'
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2012 - 11:31pm PT
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Sorry for the cold shoulder Pete. Great presentation about your adventure on the Waddington..
Is free solo OnSighting the S.S. as gnar-buckets as Greg's free solo OnSight F.F.A of Pipeline.?
Edit..
I forgot to mention the route. Pipeline aka pipeloads
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Dec 23, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Kind of ironic it's called "free" when for some people the price has been very high.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Dec 23, 2012 - 12:50am PT
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I made do with watching Bob and Doug's The Twelve Days of Christmas on YouTube
Hey, thanks for the tip.
Just sat the kids (6/8 yrs.) down for their first B+D Xmas Carol before bed.
And mom sang along!
Cheers!
Cheers to all!
Wishing you all peaceful, and calm solo journeys.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2oPio60mK4
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Dec 23, 2012 - 10:41am PT
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Over the last week or so I read this whole thread and it is the best stuff I have read on here in a year or two. Relevent people talking about climbing. How refreshing. I still don't understand why people want to hear about climbers discussing politics and the like. Great stuff from you all.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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PC has to be trolling; first quoting PeeWee Herman, now calling me out on not saying hi to him, and demanding I buy him a bag of cheezies. This is too much..
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