Nose Record...

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zBrown

Ice climber

chingadero de chula vista

Jun 18, 2012 - 12:39pm PT

... the simul-climbing style of Honnold/Florine a lot better. It looks faster too.

Could be why they were about 22 minutes faster.

In terms of just personal likes, it's Mr. Florine for me. Admire his amazing staying power. Wonder what Mr. Honnold will be up to 22 years from now. I'll be 88 then and just beginning to realize that in twelve short years I'll be one hundred.

Time passes slowly up here in the daylight
We stare straight ahead and try so hard to stay right
Like the red rose of summer that blooms in the day
Time passes slowly and fades away

couchmaster

climber

pdx

Jun 18, 2012 - 12:46pm PT

"they want to put in a boardwalk and ban people from going off of it. so there will no longer be lounging and picknicing where you please to admire the big stone."

But they are fine with the mega-thousands of cars that drive by daily continuing to drip oil that runs off into the river though. God forbid you step on a blade on grass, something which appears to be a low impact thing from all appearances and that will grow back. Hey, it's only money, toss it down the rat hole -we can just keep borrowing more from our buddies the Chinese.

Thanks for the shots Cragman!

apogee

climber

Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy

Jun 18, 2012 - 12:48pm PT

My apologies for contributing to a potential thread-drift from an exceptional achievement.

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Jun 18, 2012 - 01:01pm PT

Seems kinda crazy to boardwalk the EC meadow, I mean they burn the thing periodically, so what exactly is the concern with people walking around out there?

Anyhow, congratulations to two exceptional athletes. Dean Potter will probably figure out a way to wear a wingsuit, freesolo and huck mos into updrafts, and beat the record solo. Big enough updraft and he comes in under 1:45.

TripleS_in_EBs

climber

Poulsbo, WA

Jun 18, 2012 - 01:10pm PT

Running the numbers:

2:23:46
Basically 144 minutes.

Let's say 2900 ft.
That's 20 ft per min, or 100 ft every 5 min

Perspective:

Dan-O Bear's Reach 400+ft in 4:25 (almost 100 ft/min) (You've seen the video so you know what that kind of looks like)

Cedar Wright speed solo on Nutcracker was advertised at 100 ft/min (You've seen the video so you know what that kind of looks like)

At 20 ft/min, they're not running up it anything like you see with the 100 ft/min guys.
Anyone who was in the meadow want to comment on what their speed of ascent looked like?
Someone already said they looked more in control than they expected they would. I would think 20 ft/min would look controlled, steady and speedy, but not running up it.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Colombia, South America

Jun 18, 2012 - 01:16pm PT

Alex knocks another 8 minutes off the record, all by himself! From Hans Florine's Facebook page:

Due to starting The Nose route after me and finishing before me, Alex Honnold climbed The Nose route in about 2 hours 15 minutes and 11 seconds. If you are wondering, I am going to let him keep that record.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Jun 18, 2012 - 01:46pm PT

What was DanO's history on the Nose?

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:13pm PT

they're not running up it anything like you see with the 100 ft/min guys.

Nose is a bit different from Bear's Reach or Nutcracker. I sure hope people that will attempt the seed climb in the future are IN CONTROL. It looked like they were in control and it should. Although they were still moving quick.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Colombia, South America

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:24pm PT

I saw the nutcracker race part in Masters of Stone 6. They were way out of control. I didnt like watching it.

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:25pm PT

my evolutionary sourse is undowtedly an ape.
for i wallow and bellow and pound about my heart
in mine effort to catolog my spirit.

i wonder, though,
if honnold evolved from the avian geneology.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT

Neither Alex or Hans ever looked frantic or thrashy. They have different styles but both are very smooth and confident. This looked nothing like Dano on Lovers leap. Basically they looked like they were strolling up Arches instead of the nose.

Hans in particular seems extremely disciplined maintaining points of contact wearing a helmet. Cutting down every objective hazard possible.

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:39pm PT

No he didnt look out of control.. frantic but not out of control.

Perhaps the difference between a sprint and a marathon.

zBrown

Ice climber

chingadero de chula vista

Jun 18, 2012 - 02:53pm PT

That there is another reason I admire Mr. Florine.

Hans in particular seems extremely disciplined maintaining points of contact wearing a helmet. Cutting down every objective hazard possible.

ibid.

zBrown

Ice climber

chingadero de chula vista

Jun 18, 2012 - 03:02pm PT

Taking a cue from Dr. Hartouni's lead (energy expenditure, horsepower), I think the marathon run and the race up The Nose make a good comparison for guessing about where the record might go, since both are being accomplished in the about the two hour range with fairly constant expenditure.

If I don't die before I get old, I'll drop back by with some statistics.

maldaly

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Jun 18, 2012 - 03:05pm PT

Congrats to Alex and Hans on a brilliant effort. It's been quite a ride, watching the records fall since Billy, Jim and John first did it in a day.

But what about the women? On June 11, Quinn Brett and Jes Mairis knocked 21 minutes off the standing women's record and got it down to 10:19. I can't wait for the women to start seriously working on this. I see no reason that women can't climb the NIAD just as fast as the boys do.

Discuss.

PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber

Central Valley, CA

Jun 18, 2012 - 03:11pm PT

Uh, I do HATE to notice this, but are Alex's pubes on display in Souza's low rider shorts pic? Cropping STAT!!! I don't need to see THAT kind of solo.

[/locker style]

No, they weren't

blahblah

Gym climber

Boulder

Jun 18, 2012 - 03:12pm PT

I see no reason that women can't climb the NIAD just as fast as the boys do.
Discuss.

Maybe you need to work on your reason seeing ability?

TripleS_in_EBs

climber

Poulsbo, WA

Jun 18, 2012 - 03:21pm PT

Certainly any Nose speeders are not going to climb the Nose like the things we've seen on Bear's Reach or Nutcracker, i.e. 100 ft/min. But when you watch a video like Am Limit with the Hubers, a lot of the footage they show you in the movie is the fast stuff, where they're going much faster than 20 ft/min. So that's why I ask, what does the overall pace look like.

Just from a movement over rock standpoint 20 ft/min is not that fast. Obviously, for the Nose it is very fast - the fastest.

Someone on Supertopo once asked when these kinds of speed climbs would be limited by the aerobic ability of the speeders. I would think 20 ft/min does not suggest they were limited because they were sucking wind. It makes me think they were more limited by technical factors, e.g. the difficulty of the moves, the logistics of the methods they were using, etc. But I do not know, so that's why I'm asking if anyone who was there has any thoughts about the appearance of their overall speed and what kinds of factors limit their speed.

Appreciate the observations from those who have seen it go down, because like I said above, most of what we see in the videos is the dramatic stuff that looks faster than what their typical pace is probably like.

Congratulations to Hans and Alex and anyone who climbs it in hours or days, even the telephone repairman, as once suggested by John Bachar.