Top 20 Tahquitz/Suicide Climbs on Mtn. Project

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henny

Social climber

The Past

Apr 16, 2012 - 12:38pm PT

Looking at the revised list, 136 FA's by Brother Bob is impressive. That represents a lot of time, effort, and money.

OK, the race is on. See your 5 and raise you a couple.

henny

Social climber

The Past

Apr 16, 2012 - 12:52pm PT

One hasn't experienced the best Idyllwild has to offer until they've done the Source. Or maybe Kill Them All (sorry Donny). And then there's Jigsaw, MP won't let you enter multiple bombs, dang it.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Apr 16, 2012 - 12:59pm PT

Just went through the old book. Clean leads only, 71 on Tahquitz & 68 on Suicide for 139. I expected more but that's an honest count.

Bob's number of FA's blows my mind. A few of those are included in my list.

Thanks Bob!

mooch

Trad climber

Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)

Apr 16, 2012 - 01:19pm PT

11 for me.....

Munge - Coffin Nail is fun. Even better....Super Pooper. That one got my attention in a few spots! When are you coming down to SoCal? Open Book or Whodunnit calls! Next on my list: Sundance

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Apr 16, 2012 - 01:54pm PT

The Source got it's name because it was the source for all that crap funneling down into the route. I thought it was a junker and never repeated it.

Another cool thing we used to do circa 1978 or so was to go to specific areas and do all the routes. Like everything on Weeping Wall, or the Buttress of Cracks, or on the Mickey Mantle area, or everything right of Etude, and so forth. That was a blast.

And how about a super obscure route (only 15 feet long), that being the mantle off the ledge on the Hernia. That one is grim hard and dangerous. And worthless.

JL

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Apr 16, 2012 - 02:09pm PT

The 100 plus list has to be a lot longer than most would expect.

Two of my old time partners, Dean Tower and Ed Gardner for sure.

Others that you'd see up there almost every weekend.

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Apr 16, 2012 - 02:20pm PT

Bocu Maru is actually another route that starts up and left of Hernia Direct. That's got some hard crimping off the ledge and I did the 2nd of the route with, of all people, Jim Donini, who was an early climbing partner of Bud Couch's and who still used to frequent the place early on.

The mantle I'm talking about was originally supposed to be part of Arcy Farcy, which ends on the Hernia ledge where you either cut right over into the gully, or move up and left to the bolt and the 10a move and the slab up to the big pine tree ledge above. The mantle in question (Greg Bender drilled the bolt) cranks right off that ledge via a 5.12 sequence and continues above with an ankle breaker ledge fall. Stupid and hard.

JL

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Apr 16, 2012 - 02:37pm PT

Donini on slab???

henny

Social climber

The Past

Apr 16, 2012 - 03:14pm PT

It might be possible to convince us that the goat tales are true - with a little work. And as for the beagle travelling time and showing up out by the Lost Pencil, well, ok, maybe.

What Kris said. There's a limit to how gullible we are.

Russ Walling

Gym climber

Poofter's Froth, Wyoming

Apr 16, 2012 - 03:23pm PT

What about the Manx???

henny

Social climber

The Past

Apr 16, 2012 - 03:59pm PT

2001 guide: 212 + 313 = 525 total. Sheesh, ya gotta watch everybody around here like a hawk.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Latitute 33

Apr 16, 2012 - 04:26pm PT

Sheesh, ya gotta watch everybody around here like a hawk.

Some would say a Chicken Hawk.

And how about a super obscure route (only 15 feet long), that being the mantle off the ledge on the Hernia. That one is grim hard and dangerous. And worthless.

WHAT! That thing is a Classic.

dee ee

Mountain climber

citizen of planet Earth

Apr 16, 2012 - 05:05pm PT

DH you didn't answer my question.

slabbo

Trad climber

fort garland, colo

Apr 16, 2012 - 07:19pm PT

As a rookie east coast puss- I haveonly done few lines;mostly around '88

Turbo Flange /Edge os
Valhalla
Playin' with the direct finsh os
Caliente os
Rebolting
Devil os

Nice rock

gonamok

climber

dont make me come over there

Apr 16, 2012 - 07:54pm PT

all but the last 3, lol.

oh, and putting in a sport climbing area at J Tree for that poor neglected demographic who are too impatient, frightened or lame to learn to climb the rock on its own terms is the worst idea Ive ever heard.

96 different routes on big and small stones, but some of the good ones ive done 5 or 6 times

henny

Social climber

The Past

Apr 16, 2012 - 08:51pm PT

According to the Fish, 584 for the Manx. Therein lies the problem.

Unless Brother Bob or the Sketchy one can tell us the total has gone from 525 to 584 by now (which it may have), somebody is going to have to call out the Fish. Just sayin'.

DE, pretty unlikely right now. Maybe a chance for Sunday, but even that's up in the air.