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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 27, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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What were y'all doing in those ugly cracks when there were all of those pretty holds out on the face? Stymied by the weather this weekend but off for a two week road trip to include: San Rafael Swell, Castle Valley, IC and Red Rocks. Remember to put Crushers Stanford show on your to do list.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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And a good time was had by all;
Em & Marty
The missile with Sully belaying Murcy in the distant crag behing
Murcy goes steep
We may be running out of material, may have to meet up with Donini next weekend....
And I gotta second that about the Crusher show, if it comes to your town see it. It kicks ass!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Mar 27, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Is that Em? I wish had time to come play today!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2011 - 10:12pm PT
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That is indeed Em! Your name came up, we figured things were busy in your world...
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Mar 27, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
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Got a couple of pics of Jay and my camera battery died...
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Mar 27, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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Looks like an extra good session, sorry to have missed it, but the gas tank is happy.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:14am PT
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Yes, it was fun. But I think it would be okay for there to be a non-rainy weekend sometime, too.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Mar 28, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Looks like a good time ! Took advantage of the break in the weather though and got outside instead -
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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Nice Rob!
Nothing like a good day of skiing or climbing, even inside to help you sleep well afterwards...
and yeah, t*r, that HArry Potter guy worked some magic especially on the thin cracks.
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SeanH
climber
San Mateo, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 05:39am PT
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what's with all the hard men supertopians posting on this thread always using the plastic when they do the double cracks? They're CRACK climbs. Holds are off. No resin for you. Once again I was there this sunday and missed this crowd (meaning i need to pay more attention to this thread, I would LOVE to see some other ST readers there.) But for the record, when I do those cracks, I go crack only. Have been bouldering too much lately to have the endurance to finish, but at least keep it pure, and don't whip until after the roof. 5 weeks out from IC though, so that is about to change, time for laps.
Side note, one boot (that's 2L) of beer at superkuchen, or dive bar of your choice for the dirt bag that shows me how to climb the offwidth(s) at PGSF. I tried liebacking with heel toe's for the feet, but that got me super pumped about halfway up, AND that crack starts getting rounded to boot! I fear I'm going to have to give in and learn the ways of the chicken wing. Anyway, one of you old timer OW guys take me up on this and earn your beer!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2011 - 09:57am PT
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Tough bluster for someone flailing on 5.9 OW!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 28, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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Really! A guy who thinks that liebacking is the way to do OW's is giving you grief for standing on faceholds.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 11:19am PT
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Seriously? Out of the mouth of young grasshoppers...
Nice shots, everyone. Styled it! Looks like a good time...sorry to have missed it.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 28, 2011 - 03:39pm PT
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I'm sorry I missed it dudes and dudettes. But, I'm not sorry I hung out with Radical in Black Velvet Canyon at Red Rocks instead!
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SeanH
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Mar 29, 2011 - 02:54am PT
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tough bluster for someone flailing on 5.9 OW!
Just friendly ribbing about the face holds. I know that liebacking is not the way to climb OW, but on a day I was there pulling plastic I saw someone cruising up the OW by the slab wall by laybacking it. Maybe he was just doing it for practice, but I thought I'd give it a shot. I really haven't started working ow at all yet to be honest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2011 - 11:22am PT
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We're cool! I'll look for you @ Indian Creek. I'm in a green saab wagon.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 30, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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SeanH, I am from SF and go to PG. If you want to work on the OW email me at xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com
I am only starting to get into the whole OW suffering scene. But, I do know how to climb this thing IN THEORY, so email me if you want to suffer together.
-V
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
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Bribe Scuffy with Bread and Beer and he'll talk you though it!
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Mar 30, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
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There are about 78 fine points, but these are the basics for that
south-facing one:
1. set your left foot
2. stand up on it
3. repeat
If you see me there, I'm at your service (or mercy). I can't stop myself.
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