Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
dipper
climber
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 02:18am PT
|
Dime a dozen these things...
|
|
hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
|
During the great gear famine of 1977 the only piece of gear for sale inMinneapolis was this mushroomy blobby shaped Clog nut that was worthless. I think I gave it as a gift to old whatsername after I got the clap but I digress.........
|
|
groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
|
Dime a dozen these things...
yep, just never caught on though.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 05:55pm PT
|
These definitely never caught on!
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 06:18pm PT
|
I don't know those, Steve. WhatinHell?
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 07:15pm PT
|
Dolt bashies. For pin holes and strange slots. I have 16 of them and did use some of them. Untempered aluminum, really malleable!
|
|
groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 08:30pm PT
|
Sort of like "lead-head" made from a rivet hanger and soft lead. I've pounded then into weird blown out holes in the Fisher towers. They work but I'm not sure complete and total terror will ever really catch on.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
|
It is true. Bashies are really hard to evaluate. They do not make any telltale sound; they are really soft. And the sling method is hideous. But weirdly they can hold in the crazier spots . The suckers can get stuck badly though and require all kinds of trouble to extract.
|
|
groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 09:00pm PT
|
I've run into mush from copperheads and unidentified metal bits before... you are so right, they are impossible to evaluate when bashed all to hell. My technique was to delicately place a birdbeak in the bolb...and then beat the snot out of it!
I have to say though, Dolt's bashie/blobbie things look better than most. He was an artist.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 11, 2010 - 09:06pm PT
|
I remember a story (from Luke?) about when Porter took Luke Freeman for
practice aid on that boulder near the base of the Good Book and
Rixon's Pinnacle (name?). It was a completely blown out shallow pin crack,
you know placements 3/4" deep by about 3/4" wide by about 3/4" tall.
Porter insisted that they stack pins rather than use bashies,
because the bashies would have made it too easy.
I think they led it, and being a boulder, it was right off the deck.
Tangentially, I always thought that in 1970, Luke was probably the
youngest person to have done the Nose. Luke was 16 at the oldest.
Darwin
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
|
Bear Rock, perhaps?
Porter, Burton and Sutton climbed in a style that viewed bashies as a last resort on the basis of technical challenge.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
|
This is a fun thread isn't it.
Anyway, Darwin, I think you are on solid ground that Luke was the youngest climber to that date to have done the Nose, 1970.
No question that was Bear Rock too, Stevie. BITD it actually was a "place people from good society" might have gone for that purpose.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
|
Ahhh yes, a Tapeasy!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
|
Somewhere on Bear Rock was doubtless one of these! Aluminum bolt hanger!
They shouldn't have caught on but are all over!
We called them Poptops since they had a tendency to lever outward under load! In actual use they would deform to conform and stretch wildly if shockloaded heavily.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 04:52pm PT
|
I have several of those, as well as some that Jim Sinclair made, which were from simple angle aluminum. Small hole for the bolt, larger one for the carabiner. As Jim said and many found, not bad for standing on also - as long as they didn't rotate.
|
|
TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 05:18pm PT
|
i like mashies and bashies and used them to climb Bear Rock bitd. i made my own before they were manufactured by anyone
my recommendation at the time was that when they are well placed they should be left fixed, as removing them tends to destroy the placement
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 12, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
|
Until stainless steel came into common use, those aluminum hangers would likely have a longer service life than the alternatives through rain and seasalt!
|
|
karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2010 - 09:33am PT
|
Gerry Mtn Sports was the first to produce that pop top style bolt hanger in 1950. Previous to that Gerry sold short lost arrow pitons that had a drilled hole for a bolt, Circa 1946. Gerry Cunningham passed away in summer 2010 in Patagonia Arizona..
Salewa copied Gerrys design and imported mass quantities of the Pop top style bolt hanger throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The Gerry hangers were unmarked. Salewa stamped theirs but on the rock side of the hanger.
Rock on!
Marty
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2010 - 10:52am PT
|
Until stainless steel came into common use, those aluminum hangers would likely have a longer service life than the alternatives through rain and seasalt!
Nah, probably not.
Recall that cascadeclimbers thread on the Kong aluminum hangers busting at Index...
A friend pulled a few on an old route in the Humbug Spires in Montana. They were totally gouged out on the backside (some type of corrosion). Scary. My bet is they wouldn't have held body weight.
Edit to add, what's with the little "X" and three lines on the carabiner, Steve?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 13, 2010 - 11:01am PT
|
The X is my stamp and I used to use three lines before that.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!