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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Aug 11, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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Anyone done Juliette's Flake? I found it pretty stout for 4th Class.
Ken
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CrackAddict
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 11, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
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In the 10c grade there are lots of sandbags it seems.
English Breakfast Crack seems more like 11a
So does Waverly Wafer
Also Meat Grinder seems like it might be 11a even though no move is harder than 10a or so, it is the "Reeds Direct" of 10c
At the higher grades, how about Hangdog Flyer at 12b? Seems pretty stiff, maybe upside down laybacks are not my forte though.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 11, 2011 - 08:39pm PT
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Hawkman's Escape.
Dingus I came here to say exactly that. One of the best memories, or two of the best memories I have of climbing in Yosemite.
We linked it with Ab Free Center and nothing on Ab Free came close in terms of commitment, holy-shitness, and difficulty.
Esa ruta es de la puta madre.
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beluga
climber
Nowhere
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Aug 12, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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Worst Error Left side.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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^^Warbler, after I got back from some vaycay, I saw where you gave me some unearned hardwoman points for the right side. Only been on the left here. Bummer that the right side is so much harder...my already small motivation to wade across the river and up the loosest dirt in the Valley is lower!
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beluga
climber
Nowhere
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Aug 12, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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I am not worthy. :-(
I've been sandbagged so many times I could stop a flood cold. It's a time honored Tradition, is it not?
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 02:30am PT
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Largo, thanks for saying Right Side of Hourglass for 10a. Makes me feel like less of a pansy for balking on the lead. I'll be back.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Aug 12, 2011 - 03:27am PT
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If you think Reeds Direct is a sandbag, go try Midterm!
But the biggest sandbag in Yosemite just so happens to be the biggest sandbag in the world...
THE NOSE
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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When I did Reed's Direct with Pratt, he didn't put in any pro
at all, ohhh, maybe a sling around a chockstone right near the top...
though he didn't need it. Every jam was so bomber, even at the
crux, I could only think the grading could reflect the continuousness
of it. But with footwork, saving the arms, it goes very well.
The offwidth above, which Pratt had me lead, is much harder, solid
5.10.
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P.Rob
Social climber
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Aug 23, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
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The summer of '86 we did Free Blast; the first 10 pitches of the Salathe. I believe right around the 8th pitch or so is a 5.8 squeeze chimney through the Half Dollar. Flip – felt like I went a few rounds with the Fairtex locals – turned every which way but loose
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 23, 2011 - 07:31pm PT
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What a beautiful picture that is, PatrickO, of Reed's Direct.
Notice the lack of no lichen on the right side of the pitch. Most excellent!
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2011 - 09:03pm PT
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I believe it is time. I will return to the valley this fall and lead this climb that they call "Reed's Direct."
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:34am PT
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Although it gets a bit strange right where Pratt is
in the photo, the few feet above, where it zigs a
bit to the right, almost leans a little, it's easily protected
and no move harder than about 5.7. It's continuous, though,
and if you're not experienced with keeping weight on the
feet you'll get tired. It will seem pretty stiff probably.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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Good observation, about the lichen.
It wasn't all scraped off the right side,
as it now is. I don't
remember ever even much using the right wall. It
was more like walking up the crack, with weight
on feet (in the crack)and bomber hand
jams to hold me inward....
I think if one is scratching at the right wall
with the right foot, it is getting difficult for them....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:55am PT
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After several beers in El Cap meadows, we run over to Reeds to ascend the route in the twilight.
Rubine had never touched the thing before, so he gets the plum lead. Full from beer, he starts slammin' in the jams. Graceful is his face climbing. But now he's lugging. And listing.
2/3s of the way up the crack David sinks in a perfect hand, leans over so I can see his face, and says to me, "It's a puker Kel, a real puker."
I laughed my ass off. I'll never forget that look.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2011 - 06:39am PT
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That's when you start looking for a place to hide.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:15am PT
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The only reason people refer to a climb as sandbagged is because they pay attention to the arbitrary number attached to it. The climb presents itself as it has for eons, you can either do it or you can't. Nothing about the climb is sandbagged, it's all about you and your expectations.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:29am PT
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In which donini channels Werner...
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
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I see your point, Jim. Maybe though the "sandbag" comes in if
people who use the grades as a guide to what they should be on
go up on something that is terribly mis-rated. I really can't, however,
think of much that is all that mis-rated. It's fun to imagine, though.
"You want to learn off-width? There's a little climb around the
corner from... and they call it Twilight Zone. Bring a couple of
stoppers just for psychological reasons, as nothing will fit.
This old guy named Pratt did the route, no chalk, gimpy Cortinas,
can't be that hard."
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