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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Todd Tremble climbing the first pitch of Tightrope, 5.11b Glacier Point Apron. This isnt even the runout part. Every move is 10c or harder on the first 50 feet of the second pitch, which is a traverse on thin flakes with no rests or even any secure stances. Flakes turn to glassy 5.9 friction for another 20 feet or so before you clip the first bolt. There was a 2 foot wide water streak where the friction starts when we did it, which made it extra sporty. By the time I made the clip Todd was holding the halfway mark of our 165' rope at the belay.
Ive heard somebody died when they didnt make the first bolt on the second pitch
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MH2
climber
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Grey Ghost in 2010. Don't want to fall on first pitch. Royal Robbins was a super-bad a@#! Beautiful climb....
This climb?
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lucander
Trad climber
New England
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Dec 10, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
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I've led this once a year for three years. Took a fall on an onsight attempt when a pebble foothold broke, fortunately I was 2-3 feet above gear at that point. One of many severely under-appreciated and neglected routes in the Gunks.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Feb 25, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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2 Wycked! bumpity for the crazy runout on tough terrainz
jhj what route is that with the phat runout thru .11 to rotten jug and then slab and shady arete? phine foto! and pheat!
gonzo, yer story was gripping...
i've had some phine times in the no fallz terrain, however none to be shared at this time.
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