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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 16, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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Dude you found my bong.
Edit: I mean water pipe
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 16, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
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Gee Grahm....just when I thought you had experienced tying off desperate knobs and placing marginal cams, this would change your bolting habits.
You surprise me again.....
...or not. You too Tom? Hmmmmm.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Feb 16, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Gee Mooch, can't we have a little fun without the bolt police coming out? ;-)
I guess the pic is a little misleading. The route does not go up the crack. It actually traverses in from the climbers right on knobs. You never actually go into the crack at all. Plus even if you wanted to go over to it and place gear its flared and gritty. yuck.
Maybe you should climb it before you assume its bolted wrong.
Back to the shenanigans...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 16, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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"See You In Heaven" is still the 5.10 by which I measure all others...
I could do that route over and over! I did the FA and didn't place a bolt!!
ha ha - Magic! ;)
more photoshop please... we're still a long ways from home...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 16, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
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Justin sans bong on the Hangover V1X.
And then it just got worse and worse...
Sixty foot V3s... I was almost afraid to watch.
Freakin' talented folks... or nuts?
ps- whoever posts at the top of the page should from here on out post a pic...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 16, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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V3x "Go Big or Go Home"
I'll go home...
this went up for another 50 or so feet? If you fell... well... we won't even go there...
The locals went big that day. Just sayin'...
Would still like to see someone do that last line... the ledge pinches off to a width of 2'... No Margin (that's what you can call it). You fall off, you're done. It's another 25 feet down from there... and at least a V1 or V2. Big balls... whose on it?!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Feb 17, 2011 - 11:29am PT
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I want to do it, but not to stoked on that landing. I want to get on Gram's V3 also.
Grahm, you're getting good at photoshop hope the guides going well.
No need for trouble in our hills. Dave, let's go climbing bolts or not, it's all fun.
I agree that tying knobs is the best and most fun so let's go and do some.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Feb 17, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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You can barely see my arms in the bottom of the pic. Figured if you lobed off, you and your spotter were going to keep tumbling down the cliff. I was the back up safety catch. Got your back bro.
The last one on the end is going to be even more dicey. At least with the others the crux is relatively low with decent landings. The last one has a nasty landing right from the start.
Guide is creeping along. Working on Dreamscape now and dialing in the routes on Voodoo. Casey has been helping out on his Voodoo routes from 1998.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 17, 2011 - 01:20pm PT
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Plus even if you wanted to go over to it and place gear its flared and gritty. yuck.
Gee,.....Aliens fix the flairing issue. And slings fix the rope drag issue. Gritty? Clean it. 'Course, I'm not the only one who feels that way. But if you're doing 50 to 60' V3's, why not bolt it? Isn't it your MO anyway?
NEXT.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 17, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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Stoked Grahm!
Getting psyched up for this summer!
I want the front row seat when you do No Margin!
Dave, I think you should go climb it before you totally condemn it.
I don't recall seeing a crack on the entire route. From what I remember it comes in at an angle and they converge at the very top at the anchor. See You in Heaven is a face route. That picture is misleading I think.
I marked where the start of the route is... you do a thin thin slab )crux? or one of them (roof!).
I think we've all done routes on all natural pro, mixed, and sport too. Maybe we should just trust each other? Everyone interprets things differently. I don't see rampant crack bolting going on up at Shuteye. There is plenty of variety me thinks. Whatever... I'll climb them all. The rock is fun!
NEXT
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 17, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
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Interesting quote from RURP:
TO YOUR LEFT!!@#!
SHAME on U!!@!@
Bring some gear next time.
NEXT
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Feb 17, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Thanks Mooch and Rurp. It's called style.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 17, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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Personally... I'd climb a route before I spouted about how someone botched it. Otherwise you might end up looking stupid...
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 17, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
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So it's an integrity thing, is it Slater?
Got a black kettle on order for you.....
I don't need to climb the route....the photo speaks the truth. Too bad you can't see past your own agenda.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Feb 17, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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What exactly do you think the big agenda is?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Feb 17, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
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Yup, Casey was a huge help! Serpent and Rainbow however have been a bit harder to pin down exactly. We know where the anchor is roughly so I think this summer I'll just have to go climb them and get them dialed in.
I am putting in some of the bouldering but not all. The book is already gonna be thick! Do you have any good old pics we can use? The bouldering is amazing out there isn't it? I can send you the photo topo we are working on for Voodoo if you think you can help with Serpent and Rainbow.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 17, 2011 - 07:12pm PT
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You know Grahm (wink wink) the BIG "Agenda" cough cough
Grahm, when you get the 900 fixed let me know!
I'm more than ready!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Feb 17, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
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oh ya, the big agenda...wait I forgot, what was it again?
Here is the photo for Voodoo I was referring to and Caseys topo.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Feb 18, 2011 - 02:29am PT
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Fellas,
I suppose it wouldn't be the glorious wild west without a skirmish now and then. Indeed, thar be gold in them thar hills (and a bit of stainless steel)!
Dave L.,
Talk to the boys, as someone's gotta have a few pics of ya'll playing in the woods! And you are right that many have passed thru the hills and it's tough to pin down the details. If I'm not mistaken, Grahm will be crediting some route as PFAs (possible first ascent) as it's so hard to be sure.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Feb 20, 2011 - 09:27pm PT
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Still gonna be awhile...
Big Sleep looked like a ski resort slope.
Glad I used Stainless Steel!
Saw the SJRG and some big rocks out that way too! ;)
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