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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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Cool! I got #1700!!
Carry on...
Ed
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:34am PT
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sorry to hear about Sean's misfortune...
as for madbolter's post, it is a reference to Wings of Steel aka WOS which may be searched on the STForum in its rather lengthy incarnations.
I don't think he actually did what he said, but who knows... there are a lot of differences in the stories of these two routes and the people who put the routes up (this last point is about to become evident).
madbolter1 posted:
Well, I hate to make a bad situation worse, but since this thread started, I hiked up to the top and rapped down the top several pitches of the route.
There is evidence of chipping. It looks like DR or Sean was beating all over with a hammer to hide the evidence, but the chipping remains for all to see.
Considering the other bogus tactics DR and Sean resorted to in order to establish the route, it's obvious that they chipped holds as well. And nobody else has been on the route between when they were chipping and when I saw it! Seems like they employed every tactic necessary to bring the route down to their level, and then invented this "being considerate" story later to obscure the fact that they simply couldn't rise to the level that the sacred rock entreated of them!
While it SEEMS that they have been forthright in this thread, in fact, they have simply been hiding the most horrible facts! The chipping makes it clear that no matter their past reputations, they guys are just butchers!
Getting older, looking for a glory route, even trying to make a movie of it, it turns out that there is no depth too dank and murky for them to plumb in their quest for recognition at any cost to the sacred rock. Butchers, I tell you, BUTCHERS! My grandma could have done the route better, and from the ground up too!
DR and Sean, I defy you to deny it! It is obvious to anybody with half a brain what really happened up there! For SHAME! You will never live down this legacy of infamy!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:36am PT
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BLD, you know, I didn't pay any attention. I guess I should have, but my attention was focused on the widespread and appalling damage to the sacred rock! I can't bring a single hanger image to mind, but I have many images seared into my mind of the rape done to the rock.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:41am PT
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MadB,
I havent been on the route but Im sure you are wrong.
Do you have a real name?
Thanks Blair............
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:45am PT
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Ed, don't you mean to say "differences in the people that put the routes DOWN?"
If they were willing to rap-bolt, then they are capable of ANYTHING! They are probably child-molesters too.
Or do you really imagine that you "know" them? If you are that naive, then all I can say is that I bet you didn't imagine in advance that they would "do" this route on rappel!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:48am PT
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Blair, my name is Richard Jensen. I'm not at all clear on how you can be so sure I'm wrong if you haven't been on the route! Isn't that the issue here? Thousands of posts in a pure speculative vacuum. They admit to rap-bolting! Who knows what new horrors they will admit to when really pressed!
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:49am PT
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Clint C. wrote:
"Blair,
Ouch, sorry to hear that about Sean. And airlifted? That sounds bad, like he took a bad fall from the boulder after being bitten.
Please keep us posted when you hear more."
Clint,
I don't think Sean was up very high. I heard he was showing one of the kids how to do a move on the crack which was probably a very small child size boulder prob. I'm sure he was glad to take the hit instead of one of the kids. I think the air lift was due to serious swelling and or protocal.
Blair
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:49am PT
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I was up there and I call BS
Doug
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:51am PT
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I also saw evidence of drilled and patched holes. Let's hear the real story about that!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:52am PT
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Ahhh... DR speaks. But your bald denial doesn't hold up because YOU are a rap-bolter! Tell the truth about ALL your tactics!!! We want to hear about EVERY time the drill touched the sacred rock and about ALL you did with the hammer!
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:53am PT
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MadB,
Its simple.
I know Sean.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:56am PT
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Blair, so did you know in advance that Sean would rap-bolt the SFHD? If so, WHY didn't you stop him? If not, then you really don't know him as well as you think you do!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:57am PT
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Richard writes: "They are probably child-molesters too.", no, they are not... why don't you just get to your point Richard, shittalking is different from real slander...
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:59am PT
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MadB wrote:
"Blair, so did you know in advance that Sean would rap-bolt the SFHD? If so, WHY didn't you stop him? If not, then you really don't know him as well as you think you do!"
Go back and read the thread.
The whole thread and then ask me your questions.
B...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:00am PT
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Ed, you say, "shittalking is different from real slander...," so perhaps you can explain that clear, bright line to me. And while you're at it, please let me know how your observation is relevant. These guys RAP-BOLTED the SOUTH FACE OF HALF DOME! OMG, what credibility can be left after that???
Oh, the horror!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:01am PT
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Actually, Blair, I HAVE read every post. I didn't see the part where you knew about the rap-bolting in advance and tried to stop it. Was that posted and then withdrawn later? Or are you admitting that you don't know they guys as well as you assert?
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:02am PT
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Did anyone sh#t on their ropes?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:03am PT
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for a guy who bitched endlessly about the unfair treatment he recieved, he sure seems willing to jump right on the next guy.
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:04am PT
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MadB
I AGREE with how GROWING UP was put up.
I dont need to explain any more than that to you.
Carry on!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Apr 21, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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Sad to hear about Sean. I had a friend bitten by a rattlesnake last year, in his garage. Not good. The recovery takes quite a while. Hopefully Sean had medical insurance too. While my friend did, he managed to see that his bill totalled over $100K.
Ironically, his name was also Sean.
Good luck and speedy recovery, Sean!
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