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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2018 - 04:29pm PT
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Gnow yer gnomes.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 29, 2018 - 05:06pm PT
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sweet sunshine stalled by rocksThere is a certain madness that is comfertingGarden shed Buffalo no gnomes though
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:17pm PT
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The Real Deal
Bishop Bullwinkle’s got
The Lucky Monkey at his right hand
Bishop B’s got the lovin’ of Jesus
Better listen if you can
Bishop B’s got the Lucky Monkey
It’s all a Lucky Monkey’s plan
Don’t let nobody tell you nothing
Like...
“Don’t monkey it up again!”
Bishop Bullwinkle
Keeps his sermons short
Bishop B’s a Bicycle Man
You can trust him to have a plan
Bishop B’s the real deal
He’s a bicycle man
Bishop B’s the real deal
Bishop B’s the real deal
He’s got a fire extinguisher
At his left-hand
For putting out the devils flames
He’s doing the best he can
Bishop Bullwinkle
The lucky monkey’s on his right hand
Bishop B
Oh he’s got a real plan
Bishop B’s the real deal
He’s a bicycle man
Bishop B’s the real deal
Bishop B’a the real deal
-the plan-man
08/29/2018
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:31pm PT
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Edit;
Hey Tad, I’ve been looking for the old topo I drew of that long Bald Rock first ascent Jim Thoen (edit) and I did back in the day, must’ve been the early 80s when I still had one of my old motorcycles…a CanAm 175 enduro that never seemed to die, as long as I had it anyway. We used that old bike to get our camping gear down closer to the approach as I recall. Damn it seems so long ago and is so foggy to me now. I’ll have to dig through some more boxes out in the garage later I guess to find the rest of some old climbing notes. Maybe the topo is in there.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 29, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
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hey there say, mouse... fun rhubarb... :))
gnome, say, nice rock formations for the gardens...
:)
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 30, 2018 - 09:17am PT
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Big Bald Rock Dome, the Universe, or Bust
We rode the last mile
on my beat up motorcycle
Crashing on down through
the manzanita thickets
Jim flew off the back
and followed me on foot
Where we stashed the enduro
atop the ravine
There we eyed our new route on
the skyline we’d seen
As the Feather roared down
through the canyon below
With man eating class six
over boulders down a row
The spring melt at peak
in the warm late May breeze
Racking up at the base
with trad gear and a drill
The dome rose from sight
to a summit of scree
So we set out on friction
from small feature to feature
As the birds and the insects
paid no heed to we creatures
Of what happened that day
all that’s left in my brain
Perhaps eight or nine bolts
and some memories remain
On a southeastern face
somewhere back in the day
Just me and friend Jim
on a balmy spring day
With long runs between gear
placed in flakes that we found
Fewer bolts drilled and set
in granite gold and brown
We risked eighty foot slides
on a face climbing fest
Under clear skies and sun
as we climbed at our best
I recall little else but
the grueling trip out
Pushed the bike up through thickets
of manzanita pickets
And a story Jim told
of an alien visitation
And I haven’t seen him once
from long ago days to this very one
-bushman
08/30/2018
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 30, 2018 - 10:35am PT
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Yeah Tad, they were the local Chico crowd and many others, whose problems at bald rock bouldering area and routes on bald rock dome I tried also, some of which I actually got up. A good friend introduced them to me when he was going to Chico State and we all kept up with each other over the years. Have lost touch with most of them since then because I stopped climbing some twenty years now.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Aug 30, 2018 - 10:57am PT
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Well I was always more of a Chicas kinda guy than Chico.
Don't start me talkin' about Nita. It gets confuzing.
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 30, 2018 - 11:02am PT
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I'm impressed with your Bald Rock success. I don't remember getting up more than a couple of pitches...lack of skill and fear of the unknown, coupled with a lack of a bolt kit kept us at bay. Those were the days when clean climbing ruled so we never considered using pins or bolts. Silly us. I remember parking on top and then bushwhacking down the west side. Thats where I slipped on some exposed slabs and almost ate it. Never went back.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 12:33pm PT
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Bald Rock, Plumas NF - Slide show
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgqYEkwgknk
Guys, I hate to bust yer butts, but y'know bolts are responsible for the proliferation of climber population on slabs and domes
...or dontcha?
Your lack of a bolt kit, Throwpie, that's a good thing, in my opinion. I certainly never put one together, though the Rev had a modest one and so did Cowboy Larry. I can't say for sure about how many I've placed. It is a function of how many FAs one puts up, partly.
But not having one is also a show of bravado along the lines of not taking any hardware at all like the REAL FREE CLIMBERS (Preuss and the like), which conveniently converts to an "ethic." If I had been more interested in pursuing climbing than I was during the seventies, I'd have had a bag of bolts and hangers and bits and sharpening stone and drift and holder and all of that SH IT, plus expended God-knows-how-much time and energy...for what?
Drilling ain't fun, don't let'em tellya different. Why not have fun climbing? There are lots and lots more reasons for NOT having a bolt bag than I care to try to amuse myself with thinking about.
Bolts are, however, an accepted part of the game now, so it does no good to rant or point fingers. But were I still an active climber, how would I really feel now? I can't answer that. I leave it to the individual. Good luck with your conscience, and remember it don't mean sh it.
What a fine little tale you've penned, bushman. And what a nice rock on which to get an FA of such length.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
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"Well I was always more of a Chicas kinda guy than Chico"
Five is better, even, than two!
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:09pm PT
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My ethics only existed while I was still on the deck. Once I was off the ground I would clip into anything that presented itself.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Aug 30, 2018 - 01:39pm PT
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I had incorrectly noted earlier that a Jim ‘Thornton’ was my climbing partner on that bald rock FA. My apologies, it was Jim Thoen, how could I forget? I also climbed the leaning tower with him and Mike Paul back in ‘81...and for a second time within just a few weeks, just because it was fun.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2018 - 03:54pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 30, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
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Today I drove up on a 1950 Studebaker !
Pix to follow,
Now, in the late summer, cars are showing,
I'm not going
buy them trade them,
it is all hot wheels to me now
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