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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Name, rating?
Addition for the Slater topo.
Here is N. Eagle Beak way in the distance.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Daja View ... I like your photo better.
Name: Hard and Dirty or The Way We Like It
Rating: dirty hard
More pics please
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Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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A trip to the beaks. Mid or late 90's?
Those were my favorite climbing shoes of all time. The 1st gen Five Tennies were crappy climbing shoes, floppy and wore our fast.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Looking at Tork's pic of the Fish (Nice shot by the way with the clouds and all), the line to the right of the roof in the middle is one of the most exhilarating 5.10s I've done up there. It goes over the roof at the top. One .5" below your feet and you gotta go for the lip. Queer sequence with some pucker... good fun!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Awesome share, Banquo! Was there a summit register that you recall? I imagine the beaks get few ascents. Which route did you take? Or was it a new line called "Mismatched Shoes" or "Manzanita Munched My Shoe"?
Tom,
Tork told me that was a good 'un!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Banquo,
Your second shot is looking up the SW side of S. Eagle Beak. Matt Schutz has done a line up that face.
Any more pics??
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Glad this thread is coming back to life a bit...
Can't wait for the season to kick in (May maybe!?!)
Yeah, the Fish is small (65') but just tall enough to be worth the stop, and the rock quality is superb. And the approach is just plain simple.
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Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Nate-
Since the guy I was with wouldn't lead, I started up something that I recall as slabby and looking runout but bailed when only one foot would stick with confidence. I don't really recall what we did after that but it would have been pretty wimpy. I can't recall anything about registers.
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Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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There is about a half roll of film taken that day. Lots of landscape shots since I was still trying to orient myself. I tried not to scan any of these backward but I tend to do that.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Tom, that route was a good one. Pucker factor for sure. I remember a heel hook or two. I remember getting sideways. And I remember some weird mantel. Also for some reason I remember thinking a lot about my ankles.
Nate, any info on Matts route?
Banquo, thanks for the share.
Jeff
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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lol -- you DO get sideways -that mantel is tough! you nailed it! Just not your typical go "up" route.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Tom, how many routes did you do on the Fish? I know I saw a couple of other bolted routes also a few other lines that look to take great gear.
Jeff
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Off the front page so fast. Gotta make room for politics and bitching about alot.
I know you all got pics.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Like 7? To the best of our knowledge that left slanting crack on the right (about 5.6) was the only one done before (FA Hal Murray & Paul Doherty, 6-2003). The JRs can tell you a funny story about the anchor they "put in" with no hammer after their "first ascent" of the same crack, ha ha.
All the routes are bolts/pro (slings/cams) or just pure pro. Gotta love Shuteye. You sure save a lot on bolts ;)
We didn't do any more because we didn't want to do any squeeze jobs.
There are two hard cracks on the far left side (around corner on left in shadow) that we tried but couldn't do. Have at 'em! 5.11s?
Glad this thread is pretty devoid of BS and politics etc. Bump
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sick.
What is this I hear about the road being plowed to Mammoth pools?
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Mucci, hop on that 50 and check it out for us!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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It is freshly tuned....
It was just a rumor though, not actual proof.
Sweet pictures Banq's!
The fish looks like a standard, perfect crag of shuteye.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Mucci - sounds early for plowing - but the only ones that do "first plow" of the season to Mammoth Pools are the SoCal Edison boys.
Used to know a guy there I would call but he passed away last year - you might try the Fresno office or better yet, call the North Fork Forest Service office at (559) 877-2218 - tell them you are a property owner in that area - they will usually give you the scoop.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Thanks for the info Big D!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Hey Mucci Man!
Yep Tom, Dirty and Hard
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