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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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Darwin, I think Malibu and his favorite Zuma and Dume were really flat then. Summer maybe. That must have been 1970? I stayed at Lon's house down there but we went climbing instead. I think the place is called Malibu Creek these days and has become an actual climbing area, though it is at least as loathsome as Pinnacles and is a much tinier area.
I think the last time I went surfing with Lon Porter was Rivermouth when it still would break back then. Winter of 1972?? He soon got very very sick from the water flooding from the San Lorenzo River---plastic septic tanks bumping along the beach even during the worst of the it--- and was hospitalized then soon taken home to Malibu by family. The provost of our college John Dizikes even came to my house to drag him to Dominican Hospital. Lon recovered of course and still surfs today, I see from stuff online. And he seems to still be married to that girl DeeDee. He was a really good surfer and could ride anything. He had been surfing since he was like three years old. His Dad even surfed way into his doddering years. An old Malibu family, they knew everyone there.
But look; Lon continued on of course and was the subject of two bubblegum trading cards down there. I think he would be 65 now.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Aug 30, 2014 - 08:01pm PT
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Conditions in SoCal look primo, but isn't this like an average winter day at ocean beach?
Size wise, maybe, yeah.
Every winter up north has "that" day.
The hype is the swell angle
combined with size and conditions.
When spots that never break or that are usually sh!tty closeouts are perfect and holding at triple overhead, it's definitely special.
And from first hand accounts and all the footage I've seen, all the hyperbole looks and sounds justified.
http://www.surfermag.com/features/week-webclips-17/
Sandspit in summer???
Newport Point!
10 second pits at Zuma?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Conditions in SoCal look primo, but isn't this like an average winter day at ocean beach? What's all the hype?
It is the swell direction and location (Southern California). Between the islands off the So Cal Coast blocking swell from various locations, and Point Conception, this is a pretty rare event for So Cal. Spots have lit up that many people don't even know about. Crazier stuff has happened during other big south swells this time of year. 1975 I think, a September swell hit and for a day or so lit up the remaining section of reef at Killer Capo to triple overhead. It's a big mushey wave so no big deal right? It just happens to be located right at the mouth of the Dana Point Harbor. Boats of various sizes were stacked up in a circular pattern trying to time the run in through the harbor mouth with about 20 guys in the water. It was pretty wild and crazy out there. My first 18 foot face waves ever. The third reef at Cottons was breaking, so it was a pretty amazing swell for lefts, although the peak at the harbor mouth was a Right.
Drljefe. The 1975 swell was a combo hurricane and a large New Zealand ground swell. We had good waves in SC for 2 weeks. Everything changed day to day of course. Somewhere in that first week, the outside reef at Beach Road started going off. About 21 houses down from the North end, there showed up a big hollow left that would spit like a machine. We would check the road from Pines Park every day during the swell to try and learn something about what and where, and also thinking that this would be a more regular event than it turned out to be, Broke for 2 days then shut off and went back to the normal phufffffffff. Place scared the crap out of me, air drops in and solid double over head. Luckly, I never touched the reef the 2 days it broke.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 31, 2014 - 08:40am PT
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good enuff for some pro's to show!
Kelly was called in from Tahiti
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 10:07am PT
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My memory sucks, that's for sure. I used to keep a log, but that disappeared long ago apparently. That 1975 swell was September 20 - 29 or so. Everything is online now....the funny thing is no one mentions the Doheney/Dana Harbor boat jam. That I distinctly remember, because I missed one of Trestles and Cottons better days. I lived within view of Doho and that view of the peak breaking across the mouth of the harbor was what I woke up to. A couple boats have real close calls barely missing the jetty on the shorward side. Next day, my bud Tony and I were off to Trestles for much better waves and the scene at the harbor calmed down as the swell direction changed again.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 31, 2014 - 11:04am PT
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I have a couple buddy's from stoney point who claimed they surfed on that big Wednesday! now I can tell em how old that news is!!!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 31, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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My buddy went here!
North L.A just past Mugu rock!
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jstan
climber
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OK I have to do this.
Surfing v. Climbing... Complimentary Pursuits
SB
Surfing v. Climbing... ComplEmentary Pursuits
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nice.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Pyro. Nice video find. My son told me there is video of Laird shooting the pier on his SUP. I'll have to see if I can find that later.
I have a couple buddy's from stoney point who claimed they surfed on that big Wednesday! now I can tell em how old that news is!!!
Pretty f'ing funny!! I think this last swell came about as close to duplicating that '75 swell as you could get. That reef break became an obsession with me, and 39 years later it finally broke again. And it sounds like it went OFF.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Cool. What was that barrelling left? Are the ariel shots done with a "drone"? [yes]
Malibu Gum trading cards?
Does the Ranch catch this swell, then on up to Santa Cruz and San Francisco? Is there a swell cam for SF Ocean Beach?
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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I can't even watch that video. It is too frustrating to *not* be on that swell. That left is like Desert Point, but in California.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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big wednesday!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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^ cool page. thanks guido.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Friggen Norbert is going to ruin my Sunday Tahquitz plans. Thing is going to fall apart and roll over So Cal. Oh well, we DO need the rain. I'd better get together a plan B fast; Since it's going to be tropical around here, Margarita's!
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