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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nov 25, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
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I love doing ground up adventure routes but I also love fun sport routes. That is one of my favorite things about Shuteye, you have both. I had been looking for a wall like the Runnel Vision wall for a long time. Was so psyched when I found it. IMO Runnel Vision and the route to it's left are two of the best sport routes I have been on.
That being said, Eschers Way is by far the best multi pitch route I have done at Shuteye. I think it is also the longest continuous route out there. The Queen's Throne is longer but after a few crux moves, not so continuous. When you look up at Escher's you have no idea where the route goes. Even pitch by pitch it is not so obvious. I still don't know how John was able to drill the first bolt on pitch 2 in stance??? My only complaint is that damn piton! John!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Nov 29, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
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Beasore Summit (Cold Springs Summit) at a little over 7,000 feet on Sunday.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Nov 29, 2010 - 10:34pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 29, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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hahaha, nutty!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 30, 2010 - 12:19am PT
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groan...
another season lookin' at Grahm jumping around in the snow and climbing rocks none of us can get to. Are you freakin' barefoot!?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Nov 30, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Nice photo Tom, and Merry Holidays all!
Lotta snow up there already.
I was pretty much just a spectator this year, Tork, so no favorites for me. And I know pictures can lie, but Runnel Vision looked like a tasty trad wall to me. :) But I do know you concoct quality sport!
Oh, and Tork, seeing as you are probably one of the most well travelled Shuteye climbers, what say you to the older "3 star routes" listed above? "Elegance", "Greed, Envy, Gluttony...", "Massively Parallel", "Welcome to Shuteye", "A Climber's Requiem", "Eine Kleine..." etc. etc.? Do you concur?
Would love to also hear favorites from the semi-lurkers here. Speak up boys - you know who you are.
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this just in
Ice climber
north fork
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Nov 30, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Nate, Song of the Night is the 10a on High Eagle we did. For sure three stars, I was a little worried about using 20 year old bolts, but it was all trad so no worries there. My personal favorite was called The Spaceman but it is short, so probably only two stars.
EDIT. Are semi-lurkers semi-pussies?
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Nov 30, 2010 - 08:31pm PT
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Some of my favorites include Book of Spring Pages and When Dreams Come True, first pitches anyway, and almost all routes right and left! ;)
Seriously, there are so many potential classics in the neighborhood, still gritty from being less traveled, but there are many routes I would
like to climb and climb again. The OWs Pink Baloon and Sleeping Giant have potential to be classics just because they are stunning, fun lines, despite the heavy gear needed to climb them. Though the overall setting of Shuteye and the stunning views of the mountains are possibly biasing me in favor of Shuteye climbs period.
What little we've climbed high on the ridge, Crack Attack was cool, as was the aspect of the rock generally in that nook. Plus some no name crack climb w/roof on 50-5.7s, first one reached when the trail comes closest to the dome... as fun as it is dirty. Elsewhere, Lost Eagle's Melting Wall is classic in an of itself. It amazes me to find great cam and nut placements among the chicken head features.
Very nice comments on Escher's, Jeff! Sweet to hear, whacked piton and all... It's probably the most fun I've ever had topping out on a climb yet.
Edit: Arrrgh.... Why I havn't wanted to contribute on this topic.... Sounds of spray when I just want to enjoy great memories.
All apologies for any spray parts.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Grahm... R u barefoot in that photo?! What are SE conditions now?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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susu,
You do know that this whole thread is pretty much about spray, right?
Sometimes it's just a bit more specific.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Barefoot but not pregnant. Freezing your foot solid in snow and then climbing is WAY better than any sticky rubber I've tried.
SE conditions...Bring your crampons and ice axes :-)
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Nate, I've done a lot less up there than you may think and a ton less than I would like to do. Like Sue, Gray just keeps calling me back.
I still have not been to the Queens Throne but the Royal Boulder Garden on top is stacked with a bunch of fun stuff.
On High Eagle, for trad, Eine Kleine Nachtmusik was very good and the most obvious line on the wall. The song of the Night was also classic. East Crack was also a fun route, hard for 5.8 and a bit dirty, needs a bit of lovin. Crack Attack, unsure of real name and fa party, is my favorite single pitch there but the bolt that is now right next to the crack takes away from it for sure. Also, the long 11c to the left is one of my favorite sport routes on the ridge.
I love Chiquito Dome but am not bold enough to do the classic Higgins routes. I stay away from Higgins routes. Elegance looks incredible, has to be classic. May have to dig deep inside and give that one a go some day. I still want to do something to mark Sahib and replace any 1/4"s that are still there. I have to say a couple of the routes that cross it are incredible. That face is so amazing. A couple others there are just wrong. I also agree that Top gun is very fun as is the Acolyte.
Have not climbed on Fallen Eagle, so I still need to check out Judgement Day.
Everything on Minerva that I have done is great. I enjoyed both Massively Parallel and 7 Deadly Sins both 2 star routes(was quite gripped on 7 Deadly). Old Man's Dream and Young Man's Fancy are classics and Tail Feather looks steller as well, another bolt replacement project. All the new stuff there is all very good as well.
this just in, tell me more about Spaceman!
Sue, sorry if you think this is all spray. I like hearing about other folks experiences/memories out there, especially this time of year. And I really love all the photos of the area(post em if ya got em). If I can't be there at least I can read about it and enjoy the pics.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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The Spaceman is a 12a that I put up. One bolt, one nut and slings for knobs. Crux is 15 feet off the deck and out a roof. The route is very fun but it's short (maybe 50 feet). Grahm got the second. I'm not sure what the name of the wall is.
What did you name the two to the left of runnel vision? Is June warmer than Wawona? I know it gets more sun but that wind is cold over there. Last couple of winters I was working in Yosemite West and Wawona. Yosemite West had more snow but Wawona was way colder.
SUSU, what are you spraying? Smells like laquer, I love laquer.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Great to be hearing all the feedback on some routes. Spaceman is really cool, but Space Cowboy to the left is even better I think. Still needs a second...Justin ;-)
Crack Attack is actually VA VA Voom by Dan and Urmas in 2004. For sure 3 star. The original line goes up the dihedral to one bolt then goes left into the crack. I added a 3 bolt left start to it in 2007. Eagles Gift 12a another 3 star route goes up the same dihedral but then straight over the roof and then right through bolts.
Illuminati is the 11b to the left, Brent Webster 2007. Its a great route and pretty popular but the top bolts do detract from Va Va Vooms finish. I skipped the bolts and used gear for Va Va Voom but when doing Illuminati I clipped them cause the rest of it was all bolts.
Havent tried Jeffs new one or Elegance on Chiquito yet to see how they compare to the other routes. They both look amazing from the ground.
So hard to pick just one route as THE classic for each wall. Even if you do you'll still have a list of over 50 must do routes! Narrowing that down to like 20 must do's is going to break some hearts.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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The cowboy is awesome, I mean "Amazing ", for sure better and yes I need to get it. Grahm the doctor gave me some pills, an xray, and told me come back in a month. So I guess he gave me the go ahead on snowmobiling.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Grahm, put your shoes back on, get off the snow bike, and just put out a guidebook already ;)
then we can get all the beta and spend the rest of our lives climbing all those awesome routes!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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So Nate and I have been talking about the meaning of a "golden era" and are wondering when, for Shuteye, that would have been.
So far our definition of a Golden Era has included the discovery of 'new' formations, increase in these discoveries, but not limited to the 'most' routes by number.
In jest:
70s RR era - Classic Rock era
80s-90s Delk/Kodas/Vernon/Hartman etc. - Hard Rock era
2000-05 Jones etc. New Wave / Rap era (get it!?)
05- Present - Modern Rock
(names not present doesn't by any means mean they weren't there :)
Grahm mentioned that perhaps it started with RR and is still going on, so all of these "waves" of discovery would be considered "Golden".
Any ideas?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Sweet! I have some parts coming in next week so both snomo's will be up in action. We'll go tear it up.
We'll have to get some climbing in too and post up the pics just to make Slater jealous! ;-)
Jeff and Sue, would love to hear what you would choose as the #1 and #2 route of best quality at any grade for Grey, Red, Minerva and Owl Wall each. Bar none.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Where are Spaceman and Space Cowboy? How hard is Space Cowboy?
Jeff
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Shuteye Express - beep beep
2 people, 1,000 lb. payload.
Sweet...
(Grahm, don't run me over ;)
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