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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Here's some more photos as prompted! Only copies though, originals
taken by Jess.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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That's the spirit, Mucci!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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sweet Susu!
Fire and Ice
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Mucci... Two deep! Do we hear a third or fourth? Maybe shuteye will shine brightly once more before rains get going sunday!
After this wkend, the fires in slater's photo should be gone... Favoring those who favor ice...
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Say it ain't so Su, say it ain't so...
Anyone want to call the big one that will slam the door shut for good?
I say by Dec. 11 it'll be game over.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Mammoth's Howard The Dweeb is calling for 8 inches at 7000 feet - Cold Springs is what - 73 and some change?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Snow update...
Significant amounts of snow now sit at the middle and upper elevations. Remote sensors are reporting new snow amounts along the Sierra Crest of 10 to 17 inches above 8,000' and 1 to 8 inches below 8,000'.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 16, 2010 - 02:56am PT
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Jessica's "bundle of joy"....
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Nov 18, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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More to do!
John and Sue and crew on new Big Sleep route. If you look closely you can see all four climbers.
The orange line is Afternoon Nap, drawn for reference.
SNOW is on the way. Glad we got in one last one although I wouldn't doubt J & S are up there right now ;)
Glad to finally meet you John and Sue. It was about time! See you next year!!!!!!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Nice shot you took of the route and getting all four of us on it, thanks Tom!
Great to get to meet all of you guys the night before and put faces to some of the names on this thread, Tom, Justin, Jeremy and Brandon! Also good to see Grahm and Brent again!
Big fun going up the Big Sleep dome! A few photos of the new line.
P1&2
P4
P5
P6
& Red trees
Too bad you guys didn't get a chance to try the Honda R50 - it flew going down the slabs!
p.s. Mooch, Jessica's baby looks like he just shot a gatorita!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Nov 18, 2010 - 08:08pm PT
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"Sleep slabbing away, sleep slabbing away
You know the nearer your destination, the more you sleep slabbing away..."
well done.
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this just in
Ice climber
north fork
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Nov 18, 2010 - 08:11pm PT
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Susu, you survived the 50 I take it. Nice work on the big sleep and definitely great to meet you. Shuteye sherpas unite. See you guys next year.
This Justin Ross
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 18, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
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Good to see the stones gettin' some love out there. Wish I could have have made it out there more this year...
Nice pics too!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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Nice pics all! Big Sleep is waking up after 20 years of no action.
The door is officially being slammed shut! Glad I got out for one last day yesterday.
Today: Mostly cloudy, with a temperature rising to near 45 by noon, then falling to around 39 during the remainder of the day. South southwest wind around 11 mph.
Tonight: Snow showers. Low around 30. South southwest wind between 9 and 13 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Saturday: Snow. Temperature falling to around 27 by 5pm. South southwest wind around 9 mph. Chance of precipitation is 90%. New snow accumulation of 3 to 5 inches possible.
Saturday Night: Snow showers. Low around 22. South southwest wind between 9 and 15 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 7 to 11 inches possible.
Sunday: Snow. High near 24. Southwest wind between 13 and 18 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Chance of precipitation is 100%. New snow accumulation of 9 to 13 inches possible.
Sunday Night: A 50 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
Monday: A 20 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 33.
Monday Night: A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 20.
Tuesday: A slight chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 35.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Nov 19, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
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Are there some standout classics at Shuteye? Obviously there's alot of really good routes...but which ones are the real deal?
Like, what's the Astroman of Shuteye?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
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Winter Storm Warning
URGENT - WINTER WEATHER MESSAGE
NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE HANFORD CA
246 AM PST SAT NOV 20 2010
...SIGNIFICANT WINTER STORM WILL IMPACT THE REGION THIS WEEKEND...
.A DEEP LOW PRESSURE AREA WILL GRADUALLY MOVE SOUTH ALONG THE
WEST COAST OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS. THE COLD FRONT ASSOCIATED WITH
THIS SYSTEM WILL MOVE INTO CENTRAL CALIFORNIA EARLY TODAY AND
PROVIDE THE FIRST ROUND OF VERY HEAVY SNOW ACROSS THE HIGHER
ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA. A SECOND AND MUCH COLDER
STORM WILL MOVE INTO THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA INTERIOR ON SUNDAY
MORNING WITH LOWER SNOW LEVELS AND VERY HEAVY SNOW ACROSS THE
HIGHER ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA AND INTO THE
TEHACHAPI MOUNTAINS.
TRAVEL WILL BE DIFFICULT THROUGH THE PASSES AND INTO THE NATIONAL
PARKS. LOW ELEVATION SNOW WILL ALSO MAKE TRAVEL DIFFICULT INTO
THE FOOTHILLS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA.
SIERRA NEVADA FROM YOSEMITE TO KINGS CANYON-
TULARE COUNTY MOUNTAINS-
246 AM PST SAT NOV 20 2010
...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 PM PST
SUNDAY...
A WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT UNTIL 10 PM PST SUNDAY
FOR THE HIGHER ELEVATIONS OF THE SOUTHERN SIERRA NEVADA.
* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: TWO TO FOUR FEET ARE POSSIBLE ABOVE 6000
FEET. ONE TO TWO FEET ARE POSSIBLE ABOVE 4000 FEET.
* TIMING: PERIODS OF HEAVY SNOW CONTINUING TODAY THEN TAPERING
OFF TONIGHT BEFORE ANOTHER ROUND OF VERY HEAVY SNOW ON SUNDAY.
SNOW WILL GRADUALLY TAPER OFF BY MONDAY TO SHOWERS.
* LOCATIONS INCLUDE: CAMP NELSON...GIANT FOREST...JOHNSONDALE...
LODGEPOLE...SHAVER LAKE...YOSEMITE VALLEY.
* WINDS: SOUTH WINDS 25 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 65 MPH OVER
HIGHER PEAKS AND THE CREST THIS EVENING AND SATURDAY
INCREASING TO 30 TO 50 MPH WITH GUSTS TO 85 MPH ON SUNDAY.
* IMPACTS: HEAVY SNOW MAY CAUSE TRAVEL DELAYS OR ROAD CLOSURES.
BLOWING AND DRIFTING SNOW WITH LOCAL WHITEOUT CONDITIONS ARE
POSSIBLE ABOVE 6000 FEET.
A WINTER STORM WARNING MEANS SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW ARE
EXPECTED OR OCCURRING. STRONG WINDS ARE ALSO POSSIBLE. THIS WILL
MAKE TRAVEL VERY HAZARDOUS OR IMPOSSIBLE.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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There are climbs that someday will be classics. Hard to say what since not that many people seem to climb there or are uncomfotable talking about it due to some backlash. So the jury is still out. If you grab the Spencer guide and info you can glean from the web and head out there, you're likely to find gems right away. Or run into folks happy to give info in person. At Gray Eagle, there are some classics at least for the first pitch or two, and some all the way up several pitches, that is if you don't mind lichen and exfoliating bits of rock that haven't seen much of any people traffic.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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Astroman would be a poor route for comparison.
It is a moderate playground.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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Are there some standout classics at Shuteye? Obviously there's alot of really good routes...but which ones are the real deal?
No offense, dude, but it aint about all that. It's the SETTING that makes the Shuteye remarkable. And the rock quality.
There are hard routes that Mucci, Graham, John/Susu, et al. have put up, but the classics I've been on were 5.8's and 5.9's. And they were stellar.
It's really a silly question that you pose. Go and climb! You'll see.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 20, 2010 - 04:50pm PT
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"...or are uncomfotable talking about it due to some backlash."
Opening a can of worms, are we? ;)
Totally agree with bluey......the area and the rock quality are nothing short of amazing. One or two classics (at least at Lost Eagle):
-'Three Feathers', (5.9)....climbs a line of vertical fins that border three runnels. Fun sporty moves. Interesting gear opportunities.
-'Power To The People', (5.9R)....follows a narrow runnel to open steep slab above (5.9R), slinging small knobs along the way. The remaining 40' finishes on the backside of what looks like a mammoth fist, clenched in defiance! Climb a knob lined "tendon" to the top!
But let 'em flock to the Big Ditch like lemmings and pass on by the ever magical Shuteye. Keep places like JTree....they don't know what they're missin'.
(post script @ susu) Baby Roberta "enjoys" his daily gatorita with his tasty senorita!!
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