Tis-Sa-Ack

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JakeW

Big Wall climber

Aug 27, 2014 - 10:13am PT

It's been a while since I climbed this route but I did do it twice. I don't remember there being any rivets, so that should be a non-issue. I just remember a bunch of really poorly placed quarter inch bolts on the last ladder...but the scariest thing was an ancient piece of webbing on a rurp. It made a tearing noise with every movement. Yes, I was too lazy to cut the webbing and re-thread. There were also empty holes I bathooked. I think the story I read in some book is that they ran out of bolts so they pulled and re-used a few. So RR had a bad bolt but the rest of us just get an empty hole. After the rest of the route I don't remember it really being a big deal...just a quick yarding up to the top. Will be nice to have some modern belay bolts here and there but I recall a lot of the anchors being gear, or one bolt and gear, or bolts in a thin piece of onion skin and gear. We brought a lot of cordelettes and long runners to equalize anchors and short-fix onward.

bob

climber

Aug 27, 2014 - 11:00am PT

Sorry Jake, I must do this. "quick yarding up" as in a 14 hr ascent if I'm correct. Also, I might add that you forgot the pins and only had cam hooks on that, or the first time you climbed it which was in what, some excruciatingly long 33 hrs?

You make it sound easy.

I want more written stories Jake, because I can't remember it correctly. ;)

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Aug 27, 2014 - 11:30am PT

good job eric sloan for repairing the junked up route Tis-sa-sack!

JakeW

Big Wall climber

Aug 27, 2014 - 12:15pm PT

Ah, the challenge of purposefully poorly placed pieces of metal...

Bob, I did write the story of our ascents in this very thread once, but I think it's MIA...not sure what happened. I just meant that the bolt ladder was a quick and easy affair in comparison to the miles of expandoneering before it. The whole route went way quicker with free climbing shoes and no haul bag, that's for sure. But we still finished with the standard realization that bouldering is far more fun.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Aug 27, 2014 - 02:24pm PT

It removes any remnant of challenge.

I'm glad I did the thing when it was a challenge...!

Klaus ur the rock hound of Yosemite!
if some repair is to be done then it should be identical to what was..
I'm not here to bash some rock climber who is willing to step up to the plate.
in Klaus world all routes would be left with 40yr old bolts...scary!

sometimes ego gets in the way!

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Aug 27, 2014 - 02:29pm PT

I believe sloan replace this route also?
heard it's A1 or a fun!

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Sep 10, 2014 - 11:17am PT

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/beta/Yosemite-Valley-Half-Dome-Tis-sa-ack

job well done!

RP3

Big Wall climber

Twain Harte

Sep 10, 2014 - 12:03pm PT

Fantastic work fellas! That route really needed a little love. It sounds like you had fun getting it done as well.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

sawatch choss

Sep 10, 2014 - 12:53pm PT

"All gear/piton anchors are still gear/piton anchors, as shown on the topo. Most of the bolt ladders have at least one or two solid bolts (with the exception of the ladder on P8).
Thanks to Roger and ASCA for providing hardware and advice! We placed 13 anchor bolts, 5 lead bolts, and one rivet. All lead bolts were 1-for-1 replacements of existing [sketchy] lead bolts. Anchors were cleaned up and are generally one bomber ASCA, plus one or two more moderate to good bolts"

Sounds legit. nice work fellers.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Sep 10, 2014 - 01:13pm PT

would love to see pictures!

Roger Brown

climber

Oceano, California

Sep 10, 2014 - 01:15pm PT

Not only did the guys do exactly like we talked about, they gave me all the replaced bolts/hangers (except a few for themselves).
Wow! A nice bag of Peterson/Robbins first ascent treasures for my collection. No personel gain bullshit with these guys.
I feel like a proud father.
Roger Brown