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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Mike, I was referring to the Pitch 27 shot with the rope in his teeth. Was Kurt wearing Baggy Sweats? Somehow that style never caught on, but it looks so cool in that shot. Killer Route!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Who the hell is jeff jackson passing judgement on me passing judgement on us passing judgement..............?
Who the hell does he think he is anyway? HA!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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So THAT is where your nickname came from? Really??
Dude! You have to show us all a copy of the letter that got El Jefe all fired up! [That's some letter, incidentally. No small amount of illogical argument]
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Holy "no sooner said than done", Batman! Too funny!
Now DO TELL - what is your first name, Mr. Harris?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Well done goatboy!! Whooeeee...
80 holes?? Yikes.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I'm too a-scared too click on this thread any longer...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nahh, don't worry. He's gonna be too busy whippin' DR and SJ for rap bolting.
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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hahaha
Say it ain't so, DMT.
PS: Coz and the Kid = Chuck Norris x 2
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
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wow i made it past 150 posts! I still got it!
I like Tarbuuster just keeping it going and the goatboy finding that Jeff Jackson letter. I think this is great dialog and the reason i love this country. So lets get to 200!
And i gotta give epps credit for spending his time on the wall with us stoned noobs when he could have been in the valley swooning the ladies (some more!)!!
Here a great shot from epps.
p17 belay before Coz checks out our first varition of the muir. this next pitch was sic .13- thin crimpy steep slab!
I agree with Tar- turn off the computer for at least an hour and go bouldering or ride a bike or drink a beer of get a job!
enjoy kiddies!
KS
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Paging Mr. Harris? Mr. *C* Harris? [what's his first name?]
Two hundred posts ain't nothin' compared to two thousand. Why, you'd probably have to rap-bolt a big wall to get two thousand posts. Ain't gonna get there with no hammered nuts, that's for sure.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oh...for Pete's sake Kurt,
Could you please set those images to 600 pixels in height
(or 800 pixels wide, if it is a horizontal composition)?
As long as the file size is roughly 150 KB, they'll be more dramatic.
If photo bucket is resizing these automatically, I don't know what to say. Somebody else can help out.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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And I didn't mean for 'Pass the Pitons' Pete's sake.
I meant like:
(here I go again)
(check out these people arguing about phrase origin/etymology Ha!)
Re: Pete's sake
http://www.phrases.org.uk/bulletin_board/4/messages/1029.html
 How did the saying "For Pete's Sake" come from?
* Biblical origins. Think of St Peter. Think of the omnipresent medieval church and think of hitting your thumb with a hammer. You can't swear, else the local priests will have you up before the Bishop and the Lord alone knows what the outcome of that will be, so you exclaim, in appropriate tone of voice, "For Saint Peter's sake" and carry on erecting the shelves. This phrase was amended to "For Pete's Sake" in later, less religiously oppressive, times.
* This is called a "Minced oath," a substitution of a less offensive word.
Not by me it's not; I just consider it a mild swearword to be used in polite company to express irritation at some other person's action or, more likely, inaction. Never ever think of it as a 'minced oath' which conjures up visions of mooing cattle, butchers in white aprons and the awful grinding sound of meat being extruded.
* Relax, please. No one should ever have such a passion for a phrase.
Let me try this again. A "minced oath" means when a person starts to let go with a really bad swear -- like God damn -- realizes he/she shouldn't say it and substitutes a harmless phrase like "Godfrey Daniel." And along the same line, a person starts to say "For God's Sake" and says "For Pete's Sake" instead. Or starts to say the F-word and says instead, "For goodness sake."
* Let me also try again. Why a 'minced oath'? Where did such a phrase originate? Why not a 'mild Swearword', a 'Substituted Oath', even a 'Religious Oath' for goodness sake. A 'minced oath'; never use it, never heard anyone else use it and would advise all vegetarians to avoid it like the plague. Let's face it, it just not PC to introduce mince into swear words, however mild they may be.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Lambone/Matt,
It's certainly a drag that those nuts were fixed on the p24 corner when you climbed it. But they are gone now - see Justen's post - he and Rob removed them after they finished the PreMuir. Justen and Rob worked on freeing their version of the Shaft / Muir over 2.5 years, partly because the climbing up there is so darn hard, and partly because some key parts were wet one year. They needed some preplaced gear to be able to free that corner by very hard stemming (hand jammies backwards with the rubber on Justen's palms!). Using temporarily fixed nuts was a better solution than fixed pins or adding bolts along the crack, in my opinion (and I think Pete would agree!). Still it was a bummer for Matt, but at least it was not permanent.
I clean aid climbed the p24 corner in 1998. From my trip report:
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Day 4. In the morning, Paul probably got fairly tired of the small belay stance on the slab, as I took 3.5 hours to lead the next pitch [...]. The pitch itself was nice, sans any big pin scars like on more popular routes, and went clean mostly on solid #1 Rocks. The main problem was that we only had 3 of these, and one was in the belay anchor; having 5 or 6 would have helped. So I had to constantly move back down to backclean my 3rd-highest nut (with 2 highest nuts in place). And I couldn't always make the highest possible placement because I had to try to use my other sizes whenever possible. Finally I thought I was out of the woods after a roof traverse on small TCUs. But the short section above required more #1 Rocks, so I had to lower down and backclean all the way back to the belay at that point! Maybe if I had been willing to use cam hooks, it would not have been so slow, but I steadfastly refused to even try them. Finally I arrived at the gray alcove with its small stance, after puzzling at a small unnecessary rivet/head below the alcove. I set up a solid belay anchor using a #2.5, #3 and #3.5 Friend, all in the same deep section of the crack.
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http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/muir.clint.html
In 2001 (or 2002?), Bruce Bindner added a bolt belay at the top of this pitch. He and Em were hauling some big bags.
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=ybelmuir
http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/170030/muir-wall-life-in-the-slow-lane.html
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Pete,
C = Craig, I believe. (and for symmetry, your last name is Zabrok, right? :-) )
DMT/CH,
Cool explanation of the origins of the DMT handle. I've heard of Caspar Milquetoast (my parents have a great cartoon book by H.T. Webster from 1953):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caspar_Milquetoast
Pete & Mark,
preplaced vs. pinkpoint vs. redpoint free. I think everyone has to make their own definition of their style of free climbing. "free" is itself just a word we have defined for this context, partly because it's a short word so we don't have to describe every time that we didn't grab the gear to make upward progress.
For me personally, a toprope ascent of a pitch is free although clearly easier than a lead. This style wouldn't be considered legit for most boulderers, though, I guess. Similarly, Scott Burke's ascent of the Nose is in a gray area because he toproped part of the Great Roof due to wetness and lack of time.
I suppose I've been over this before on my "Long, Hard and Free" page (title ripped off from Mark and Max):
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
Short version: free climbing El Cap is a very tough proposition, especially an FFA. People make their own rules on style and definition of free; "as free as they can" probably. As long as there is room somewhere (like on my page) to keep track of the details for comparison or beta purposes, it's all good. Here's to the big free adventures!
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