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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Not in Arizona.
Cleopatra's Needle, N.M.
Skinniest spire on Earth
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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But Todd, you can just ride over them...
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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ok, back to Arizona (and Granite Mountain).
Who here has done Sorcerer?
Jason Sands got the first onsight and Suzuki the second.
I've only talked to one other guy who has done it (other than Waugh and Ficker).
...The Granite Mountain test piece- 3 cruxes, rope stretcher pitch w/ all gear and all techniques needed.
and other photos
an arizona tower
climbin it
at the forks
babo once more
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Someone's been on Sorcerer this year... there was a rope left on it the last couple times I was up there. Bad form.
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S.Powers
Social climber
Jtree, now in Alaska
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What an awesome thread!
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bob
climber
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I've done it. Hard 11+ or was it the bird sh#t factor through fairly hard climbing that made it so stiff? Really though, my bud and I got beat a bit on it until we reached the stance. Then............we were scared. I guess technically we did the "yo-yo" thing. We sat on the ledge contemplating gunning it above on the stems. We both wanted to do, but my bud wanted it more. (whew!) He punched it and I followed clean.
I talked to quite a few people who have done it or at least given it a go. I'm pretty sure I heard a story from Rusty of Steve Deickoff (sp) taking some screamers off that thing back in the day.
Incredible line for sure.
Another absolutely kick-ass free climb up there is The Good, The Bad, The Ugly. That is big wall free climbing on a little ol' crag in AZ. The moves are so good along with the positioning out on wall left of the Flying Buttress. I recommend this route to anyone...........aiding or freeing it.
Bob J. on morning coffee
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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A little off topic but . . . that Landscape Arch is one of the freakiest and most outrageous rock formations I have ever seen. We walked in along the ridge to the right, did a short rap to a ledge and from there we could walk right out onto the arch. Walking out along that skinny dude is easy but super weird and spooky. We (Brother Bob Gaines) and I snuck our way onto a stack of those arches. I had a baseball with parachuted cord attached and tried hucking that over a few of the arches but it never worked (I was going to drag a bigger line over via the parachute cord).
Back to Granite Mountain, I looked at the Sorcerer when we were thre and thought it looked probable but would be real stiff. Hey, has anyone recently led Jump Back Jack Crack? That looks serious.
JL
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Haven't heard of, or seen, anyone leading Jump Back lately. Amazing accomplishment for 1972. Sometime in the last five years, I was doing the descent hike down off the east end and came on a couple of guys giving it a go on toprope. The poor sod tied in at the time was bloody from knees to elbows, but game to give it another go and switching from the left side option over to the right side. Don't know how he fared after that...
Not totally sure, but I think this pic of Jump Back Jack Crack came from the '73 Lovejoy guide:
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nuts
climber
az
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Also a nice shot of another classic Easy Chair to the right of Jumpback Crack
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Easy Chair... another candidate for hardest "5.8" on the planet. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Okay, we've faded off the front page... lets get this party re-started.
Guy on the second pitch of Waterstreak Delight (10b), approaching the crux moves.
Guy leading out to the corner on Coatimundi Whiteout. Got a cam in the roof but he's about the lower off it to a bolt below.
Climber seconding the traverse on Coatimundi. Not much to stand on.
Still working on it...
And nearly out to the end (where he lowers down to his buddy).
Looking up into a business on Coatimundi from nearby Kingpin.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Rick D, and I 'jumped back' circa '90, maybe he remembers the date. It was the day we did Improbability Drive. A single nine mil, minimal gear, epic (falling didn't seem an option) was involved. I removed a biner I'd left on a bolt when Raypole and I had been rained off maybe 4 years earlier. I don't think it gets much traffic.
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bob
climber
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I've spent a lot of time up at Granite Mountain when a lot of people didn't know I was there. In that time I've seen two parties on Jump Back Jack. One time it was one of the Coats brothers as I talked with Scott Baxter on the front porch. Scott Baxter! That guy, in one conversation, allowed me the vision that there is tons to do no matter what, everywhere. You just have to look. I think that was 95 or 96. Not certain at all. So, the next time I see Scott Baxter I'm walking up road from Mars attacks with a class of rock climbers and here comes the famous Sedona Pink Jeep. The jeep pulls up and the driver says,"Hi Bob." What? I don't know any pink jeep drivers. Well, its Scott Baxter and he friggin remembers me. I felt stupid for not recognizing him!
Also, in 93, I was climbing at Upper Sullivan's Canyon and my buddy and I did some great TRing with Baxter and buddies. Pretty sure I didn't really know who he was at the time. My buddy and I get back to the car and start it up only to realize that we had, in no way, enough gas to get back to town. We rifled the car with no success. With our heads down and our egos gone for the day we went back into the canyon to ask the boys if they had any spare change. I can't quite remember how we got all the change,b ut we did. I do remember Scott and his friends acting like the position we got ourselves into was not by any means unheard of in the climbing world. They seemed thoroughly amused.
I have no idea what Scott's real impression of us was. Hilarious.
Oh yeah! The second time I saw people on Jump Back Jack was 2003 or 4. Some unknowns as far as I was concerned and they floated like it was 5.9. Maybe it was the guys I saw a few days earlier who floatillad Gunsmoke and then floated Sorcerer. They were both wearing helmets and both REALLY knew how to climb.
I've done the first Var. pitch on JBJ and it was pretty easy for what I thought it was going to be.
We didn't do the upper part cuz we were chicken sh#t. 1996.
I will climb that crack before the Mountain closes in Feb. I'll post up.
Bob J.
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drljefe
climber
Calizona
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Well, I guess I'll know where to find you Jensen. Contact me, fuker, I'm back in AZ and want to climb. THIS IS JEFE.
Back in the early 90's(whenever Croft's NIAD record was 4:20) a buddy and I had the idea to climb at all of Prescott's crags in a day.
Promised Land- Burning Bosches 11a
Sullivan's Canyon- nameless 5.9
Granite Dells- Co-Op Crack 5.10
Thumb Butte- The Koran 5.10
Granite Mountain- Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.8
Good times.
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bob
climber
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I think we can up that a bit Jefe! Look forward to climbing with you bro. Check your email. I'm in transit to the mighty state we love.
Bob J.
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Brian Boyd
Trad climber
Scottsdale, AZ
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Sullivan's Canyon is a nice small crag that I hadn't visited until recently. A quick look at our clothing will show that it isn't always sunny and warm in Arizona.
Nice warm-up at the Nursery:
Teddy Bear:
What is more fun that a roof crack with a sit down start? 911:
Sullies basalt is much more coarse than the Overlook or the Forks:
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2008 - 05:06pm PT
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Cochise Bump:
(pictures stolen from internet)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Lower Sullivan Canyon...
The Promised Land...
Nothing like a good spot when you're strung out on a boulder problem...
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