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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2008 - 01:52am PT
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Well there you have it.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jul 12, 2008 - 03:25am PT
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Jeff,
I am proud to say I have never purchased a single copy of Outside Magazine through the years, though I have picked it up from time to time off the mag wrack or someone's toilet tank to glance at some of the writing, to see if it's as weak and inaccurate, superficial and sensationalized, as it always has seemed. I remember an article they did one year chastizing those poor souls who died on Mt. Hood (as well as those who survived). Of course the author of the piece was a fellow who, in his own climbing experience, had lost two of his own partners as a result of either inexperience or bad judgment. It seemed a bit hypocritical, to say the least. The people still alive, who were carrying all the guilt, had enough suffering to bear without some uptown, slick writer taking advantage of their situation and for no other reason than to exhilarate the voyeuristic public. It seems that very author did another article about you, way back when, full of errors, and, as I recall, you sent him corrections he simply ignored, being too high eschelon to need to consider any sort of critique or to let the facts get in the way of his story...?
I am not able to recall a cover of Outside that doesn't have one of those headings, "Ten best places to climb... or hike... or surf... or live..." places which now no longer can be described in such a way, as a result of the mass exposure and resulting hordes. But should it surprise you that an article about you in such a magazine would be loaded with whatever dirt they might imagine? You might simply write to them, "If you want a list of my shortcomings, well, you don't have the half of them."
I've had so many falsehoods published about me through the years, or worse, those little contextual inaccuracies that seem small but matter hugely, that I truly finally did come to learn there is far far less integrity in the climbing world and in the publishing world than we would wish. I doubt anyone would view you as a paragon of perfection, but name someone who is. We're all trying to learn and grow in our lives, and some of us need more growing than others. Some of us are a little crazier and more disruptive, or need to learn things the hard way.
Yet we who know your goodness and integrity, when it is in full oepration and good focus, and we who have been on the receiving end of your generosity, can stand at your right side, so to speak, and add our voices to the mix. When they start separating the saints and the dweebs, I would be happy to stand with you any day -- whichever side we end up.
Whenever I would be hurt by some joke of an article, or vicious commentary, John Gill was usually the first to write me and say it was because of my strength of spirit, my virtues, and achievements that made those people less successful or less interesting, or jealous, or insecure... want to find whatever they might to take me down a notch. It seems a strange human quirk that we tend to remember the bad things far more easily than the good. Some people never remember the bad, and only the good. Those are the true saints. Gill used to say strange things to me such as, "Know you're doing the right things, if there are people who want your head on a stick." Or, "When people write something bad about you, consider it a compliment...." Easier said than done, of course.
It's not a bad letter you've written, not bad at all, but I would re-think it. I think there are more poignant things you could say.
Finally, one of the funniest things I ever saw (only because it turned out harmless to everyone involved) was an afternoon at a Salt Lake trade show. Pete was going to give a demonstration on sport leading and the art of fallng and belaying. Pete started up the climbing wall confidently and, half way up, clipped a large eyebolt they'd fixed. He had a typically cool, modern belayer, who kept a lot of slack in the rope. Pete got to the top and jumped off, having, as it appeared, an air of invulnerability, as though he were divine, not evening thinking anything could go wrong. He hadn't paid much attention, though, to what he was doing, setting himself airbore at the top of the wall where he was the same distance above the one bolt as the bolt was above the thinly padded floor below. The belayer tried haplessly to pull in a bit of rope, but Pete dropped 30 feet at least, unhindered, and landed flat on his rear end, with a huge boom that turned every head for quite a distance throughout the room. It was amazing he didn't land on his head. Credit his toughness, or his young, wiry body, but other than being very embarrassed and sore later he was unhurt. For me it was a wonderful demonstration. Sadly it seems he has fallen once again onto his derry-aire, though I haven't read the article (and won't).
I like it that you feel no hatred or malice (though you might be trying to convince yourself this is the case). If indeed this becomes your viewpoint, it's what we call character. And as for forgiveness. That separates the men from the boys, my friend. It's one of the toughest things a person can do (no climb compares in difficulty), but it is one of the greatest things one can do. The scriptures make it clear we'll be forgiven in the manner in which we forgive others. Those who hold grudges really destroy mostly themselves...
Pat
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jul 12, 2008 - 10:11am PT
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I'd really like to leave the invisible dude & his book outa things. Don't need a book to figure that one should be good to his people. It's cool....
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Jul 12, 2008 - 10:38am PT
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You are forgiven, you are forgiven, you are forgiven.
Forgiven, forgiven, forgiven forgiven, forgiven,
You are forgiven.
Come on baby don't let you lie
Oh you're forgiven don't let you make me cry
Baby you are...forgive...
... en...
You are forgiven, forgiven, forgiven forgiven
You're all forgiven!
-Pete Townshend
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 12, 2008 - 10:42am PT
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Jeff
You're just one of the best. Period.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 12, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Damn , ... Oli, (Pat), that was a beautifully written piece.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Jul 12, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Jeff,
Not to be repetative, but you´ve got a lot of options. What ever you decide to do or say, take the moral high ground.
Anything less would be counter productive. You have been one of my ¨phantom mentors¨ in climbing, from the start. Many thanks.
Peace, Tony
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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Here's the letter I'm sending:
Dear editor:
Thank you for the good press on my hometown of Ogden, Utah.
Thank you also for the mostly lauditory profile of me. You may have gone a little over the top praising my climbing career, but, being a magnanimous sort, I'll accept it (and a check is in the mail to Steve House!).
Certain parts of the story, though, are overwrought in the opposite direction. My relationships with my ex wives are actually very friendly. I'm surrounded by an extensive, supportive family. My daughter and I speak almost everyday on the phone. Nearly all of my friends have put up with my pecadillos over the decades, and remain close, and loyal. My overall success rate in business ventures is about eighty-percent, and my current work, directing Ogden Climbing Parks, is truly satisfying and engaging.
In Carlos Casteneda's words, I'm following "...the path with heart".
I'm most concerned, however, by the anecdote--related near the end of the piece--of a feud over an airline ticket between the author and me, that apparently lasted some time. Although the vignette neatly wraps the whole enchilada into a nice bundle, I was completely unaware of any such feud until I read the article.
Can there really be a feud if only one party is privy to it?
-Jeff Lowe
EDIT: pared it down a bit more
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Jul 12, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
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Oli that was a fantastic post! You are a good soul and a great friend.
Jello your second draft is vastly better.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 12, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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Jeff - you are a class act, which comes as NO surprise.
RonO - nice!!!
After reading the article, I thought is was a real shame that someone who aspires to be a good writer could not do any better than that at carefully choosing words to both relate a sometimes rocky story yet shed a good friend in positive light. The words are always a choice, and I think Pete took the road far more hurtful than needed for a good article.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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Really, Oli, that was exceptional. Thanks so much. -Jeff
And thanks to all the rest of you, as well. You've helped me to work through this thing to the point that I think I'll let that last draft stand for ST as well as Outside. I no longer feel any need to go point-by-point through every discrepancy in the article, even with Pete.
-Jeff
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Jul 12, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
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Bravo, Jeff.
Simplimente bravo.
Tony
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L
climber
Tiger Tiger burning bright...
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Jul 12, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
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Pat,
Your post above simply wraps the heart in understanding, and the mind in peacefulness. Most of your writings seem to convey these elements anymore...what a fine gift to share with any who will read them.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 12, 2008 - 08:43pm PT
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Hi Jeff,
You're about the mellowest guy around. Don't have to work at that, it just oozes out of you. Interesting, actually, to reconcile that basecamp presence with what happens when you get vertical -- look out!
And it's no surprise to see you angling toward forgiveness, either. Seems your main persona the last few years here on ST. A little gentle humor and a healthy dose of "uh...tell me again why we're taking this so seriously?"
So it was a surprise to find you feeling stuck on the horns of this dilemma. I quit reading midstream, ran out for the mag.
I got to work on the first year of Outside, writing under two of the best editors ever, period. Terry McDonell and Will Hearst have both gone on to big careers and are still highly valued friends. After them the Mag could only go downhill, and did. More success, bigger compromises, several imitators. Outside started a genre.
I've quit trying to write for them. Not worth taking so much "editorial direction." But they pay well -- it's the big time -- and folks like Pete can be excused for getting overly excited about seeing his byline in lights that bright.
The result was pretty predictable, and honestly I don't think you came off sounding bad at all. Sure, they homed in on the pitiful and the dysfunctional. That's journalism. Their view of the depth of your MS surprised me, 'cuz it's at odds with the Jello we see here on the Forum. Makes me think you're shielding us a bit from how bad it can be, at times. You know, you can whine a little louder here if you need to. We've got your back.
Of course they made the trail of your life look like it was strewn with mayhem. It makes for good copy. Ask Pete, I'm sure they squeezed that out of him, and he in turn hounded your ex- and your former investors. Good grief -- who among us would turn down the chance to run off and play with Catherine Destivelle?
Rereading, it sounds to me like Pete's "main dustup" with you was mostly played out in his head. Y'know, him agonizing over doing that to you. No wonder you barely recall it as a conflict.
Honestly, you're such an innovator, such a visionary ahead of your time, I would expect some turbulence in your wake. It's normal for anyone bounding as hard as you have into the future to ruffle things on your way by. You no doubt feel more hurt and more responsibility for that than any of the rest of us do. Maybe good for you to feel once again a few of the rough edges of the past, to get another chance to sigh and let them go.
Your second letter is pretty well perfect, and I'm glad you decided to write it out. That's too big a resentment to stuff it away. Move the anger toward its target instead of letting it fester inside, rotting your nerves. And Ron of course has your back on that like no one else can, having been right there both then and now. (Gotta admit, tho, my coyote self was thinking more along the lines of writing: "Suicide?! -- Over my dead body!")
So overall I'm a little more concerned for you now than before, my friend, and grateful that this glimpse gives us a chance to treat your situation with, well, a slight amount more gravity and respect. I'm afraid you would have kept making a bit too much light of it.
We love you Jello. Carry on.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 12, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
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I'm posting on behalf of Jello's computer, who I have interviewed on the psychic level.
"You are all being to easy on Jeff. He's a terrible fellow. He just stares at me whenever he's around. That's bad enough but he pokes me, over and over and over again. My god, I'm facing the blue screen of death if he doesn't stop poking me. Am I really backed up? God only knows. He can't take his hands off me, I feel so cheap...He puts Cds in my slot before I'm even warmed up...I can't go on..."
[/channeling]
;-)
Karl
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yo
climber
I drink your milkshake!
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Jul 12, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
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Here's my TR of reading the article. Ironically, I think Jeff's post made us all go out and read it.
Okay, I'm just back from Albertsons with a fritter (not relevant in itself.) I perused said article at the checkout stand. Had to skim due to time constraints but also, honestly, getting fed up because I couldn't find the offending passages. Quite a few compliments/achievements/etc. Some dirt, big deal. I read the House quote but that was probably because the editor bolded it for me. Woot! Coulda used more on Destiville. Like pictures probably. It told me to skip to page 110 to continue and I was reading about Myanmar or some crap? I confuse easily. Tracked it down maybe on 111 or so and read my favorite paragraph out of the four and a half I managed to complete. Takeda gets buzzed and say hey Jeff Lowe, Mr. Washed-up Alpinist, check out this route on this mountain I'm gonna climb. And Mr. Lowe says, hey kid, THIS is the line on that mountain - the one you're looking at is for schoolgirls.
BOOM
He had it then and he's got it now.
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toomey
climber
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Jul 12, 2008 - 09:50pm PT
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Takeda gets buzzed and say hey Jeff Lowe, Mr. Washed-up Alpinist, check out this route on this mountain I'm gonna climb. And Mr. Lowe says, hey kid, THIS is the line on that mountain - the one you're looking at is for schoolgirls.
Fuk yeah. Best quote of this thread so far.
I thought same thang. Overall thought the article was compliment for Jeff but hung up on the morbid/sick/death/bullshit a bit. Like Takeda never met a guy with MS before. Geezus. Get over it. MS is a bitch of a disease but goddam, Pete, lighten up. Peopel live full lives with MS and othe r shitty disabilities every fukkin day.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 12, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
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Big Wall Pete's getting married again?!
One would have thought he'd have learned his lesson - sheesh.
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PBR
Trad climber
Elizabethtown, PA
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Jul 12, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
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Don't sweat it. Nobody reads Outside.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jul 12, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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Hey Jeff,
I like your last edit a lot. I did not like the earliest version.
Your rhetorical question does have an easy answer though. Yes, it is very common for people to have feuds when only one side is aware of it. That may be the most common feud.
We do not know how often we hurt the feelings of others or insult them without realizing it. The person who is insulted or hurt may assume that you did it deliberately and you may not even be aware that you hurt them.
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