Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle

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MisterE

Trad climber

One Step Beyond!

Apr 8, 2009 - 11:42am PT

Bump

WBraun

climber

Apr 8, 2009 - 11:43am PT

What ya mean bump?

Get your ass up there instead ...

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Apr 8, 2009 - 11:52am PT

So I'd fall off, I don't think so, Werner!!!!

MisterE

Trad climber

One Step Beyond!

Apr 8, 2009 - 12:57pm PT

hehe. I am certainly a likely candidate, were I to get on it.

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Apr 9, 2009 - 12:01pm PT

BUMP, FOR WERNER!!!!11111

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Apr 9, 2009 - 10:53pm PT

Perhaps I'm the last one to get here. It was worth waiting for. Great stuff by all...

MH2

climber

Apr 10, 2009 - 09:10am PT

^^^
Or perhaps second to last.

A damn good story.

Who would not want to swim in the gold desert?
But who can?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 10, 2009 - 12:51pm PT

Answer: Shultz, Coz, those beautiful golden worms and red serpents...
And the next Uberman who steps out to complete the thing.
It will happen.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Apr 10, 2009 - 01:04pm PT

I went back and re-read some of what Scott wrote.

"Dave assured me the following pitch, the one Hank would get off route on and break his leg was the most scary of his life."

He says that Shultz, during the big run out pitch that subsequently Hank fell off, was yelling up to him where to go.

"I remember being lost where you were and have a shouting beta match with Shultz telling me where to go. That pitch you fell on was the worst one. I can remember every move to this day."

It looks to me that Leo or Dean found his way and Hank didn't.
This route would probably benefit from some very definitive beta on how to find one's way on that particular pitch.

Back in the day I recall oral history/beta was often very important to completing some of the neckier lines.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

above the play park

Apr 10, 2009 - 01:44pm PT

"Shultz, Coz, those beautiful golden worms and red serpents...
And the next Uberman who steps out to complete the thing.
It will happen."

--In which Roy channels Werner. gives me an idea....like the faux Hemingway contest.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Apr 10, 2009 - 02:14pm PT

> It looks to me that Leo or Dean found his way and Hank didn't.
> This route would probably benefit from some very definitive beta on how to find one's way on that particular pitch.

I agree - an improved topo would be nice. Few may be willing to lead p4, but it would be nice if they could find the few bolts above.
I've been thinking of going to near the base with a telescope to see if I can find the bolts and improve the overlay/topo.

matty

climber

po-dunk

Aug 19, 2009 - 03:56pm PT

Sweaty palms bump.

Awesome, inspirational story.

Matt

micronut

Trad climber

fresno, ca

Aug 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT

Hayden Kennedy, that kid who just waltzed the Bachar Yerian should go have a look.

kubok!3

climber

Austin, TX

Nov 11, 2009 - 03:45pm PT

One of the best stories I have ever read...

bmacd

Trad climber

100% Canadian

Oct 28, 2010 - 02:35pm PT

Honnold and Canadian Will Stanhope have just made their first attempt to repeat this route. Saw photos from pitch 5 on facebook. Apparently tiny wires are crucial.

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Oct 28, 2010 - 03:45pm PT

God that is great to hear. I am a big fan of Alex. This is a great project for those two. Stanhope is a great choice, it would seem. Hopefully we will hear about their experience in length. The route is so important for so many reasons. Interesting that he is on it just after Leo H. left the Valley, having completed his Prophet route on El Cap and Leo having done the first continuous with Potter. I bet the temperatures are perfect today for that up there. It is 57 on the Valley floor but about 70 up on Turtleback (fall inversion phenomenon).