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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
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Bumping some great female climbing energy. Maybe someone new is lurking and has something to add?
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AndySan Diego
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 13, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
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Seems Lynn Hill needs to be mentioned a little more.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Sep 13, 2008 - 10:23pm PT
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Phyllis Munday was as b@d@ss as they come. On one of their attempts on Mt. Waddington, they were at it for 36 hours straight, and very nearly reached the summit.
We laughingly bring it up occasionally when my wife and I have had what we would think of as a "full credit" day. "If we were the Mundays, our 'full credit' wouldn't even begin to register for another 20 hours!"
Phyllis was a major force in the partnership: her husband Don had suffered injuries in "the War" (the first one) and Phyllis generally insisted on taking the most physical burdens upon herself.
Her reaction speed was legendary: on one trip, she describes shooting out a hand and catching a marauding mouse mid-squeek. Another time, she jumped to Don's aid just as he was beginning a potentially lethal fall, grabbed him, and stabilized them both.
But don't hear it third hand, from me: Get a copy of "The Unknown Mountain" and read it from the Munday's book for yourself.
Phyllis Rocked.
Brutus
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 13, 2008 - 11:18pm PT
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Some Yosemite Valley FAs and FFAs with women team members (not all, I don't know how to resolve "Chris," etc.. in the list... any help would be appreciated...)
76 Degrees in the Shade 5.10c 2001 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Absolutely Free, Left Side 5.9 1970 Jim Bridwell Bev Johnson Mark Klemens
After Six 5.7 1965 Yvon Chouinard Ruth Schnieder
Afterburner 5.11c 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Are You Hard Enough? 5.10d Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Bad to the Bone 5.9+ A4 VI 1984 Jay Smith Lidija Painkiher
Betsy Pinnacle 5.9 1970 Betsy Nelson Rick Sylvester
Big Easy 5.11d 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Birds of a Feather 5.7 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Wituchki
Blackballed 5.10b 1987 Dan McDevitt Sue Bonovich
Boneheads 5.10b 1999 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Boulderfield Gorge 5.9 1966 Royal Robbins Liz Robbins Mike Dent Victer Cowley
Bourbon Street 5.10c 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Chairman Ted Scraps the Time Machine 5.10a 1987 Greg Murphy Melanie Findling
Chicken Pox 5.8 1972 Steve Wunsch Dianna Hunter
Chips Ahoy 5.12b 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Church Tower, East Arete 5.5 II 1935 Ken Adam Olive Dyer Morgan Harris
Compass Rose 5.10- 1989 Tucker Tech Lynn Wolfe
The Cow, Left 5.8 R 1970 Ken Boche Mary Bomba
The Cracker, Southwest Corner 5.5 1969 Bill Sorenson Ann Rehder
Critical Path 5.11a 1991 Clint Cummins Anne Smith
Diminishing Returns 5.10c 1990 Hal Thompkins Lin Murphy
The Dove 5.8 1975 Kevin Worrall Jane Witucki
Dreams of Thailand 5.11d Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Dromedary - The Hump 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
Dynamic Doubles 5.9 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Dyslexia 5.10d A4 VI 1985 Ellie Hawkins
El Capitan, West Chimney 5.9 1937 Ethel Mae Hill Owen Williams Gordon Patten 1966 Galen Rowell Tom Fender
End of the Line 5.10c 2001 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Energizer 5.11b 1990 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Eura Mura 1983 Knez Franabcek Lidija Painkiher Igor Skamprle
Eye in the Sky 5.10b R 1985 Mark Spencer Shirley Spencer Dan Abbot David Abbot
Falcon 5.10b 1981 Chris Cantwell Larry Zulim Becky Plourd Sue Moore
Fast as a Shark 5.11 1988 Ed Collins Joan Collins Ken Ariza Tucker Tech
Fifty Crowded Variation 5.10a 1987 Clint Cummins Nancy Kerrebrock
Final Decision 5.11b 1981 Anders Lundahl Eva Selim
Fine Line 5.10a 1985 Grant Hiskes Doe DeRoss
Fish Fingers 5.11b R 1985 Jonny Woodward Maria Cranor
Five o'Clock Shadow 5.9 X 1987 Jay Smith Penny Fogel
Fly-Girls 5.11a Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
The Footstool, Right Side 5.4 R 1959 Mark Powell Beverly Powell Bill Feuerer
For Your Eyes Only (Octopussy) 5.9 A3 VI 1988 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Free Press 5.10a 1971 Galen Rowell Sibylle Hechtel
George's Secretary 5.8 1988 George Watson Jim Edmondson Kyle Edmondson Mike Forkash Nancy Beebe
Ginger Snap 5.12b 1992 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
The Girl Next Door, Left Side 5.1 1972 John Bragg Bev Johnson
Golden Needles 5.8 1979 Jim Beyer Janice Linhares
Goodrich Pinnacle, Right Side 5.9 R 1964 Royal Robbins Liz Robbins TM Herbert
Grape Race 5.9 A5 VI 1974 Charlie Porter Bev Johnson
Great Escape 5.11c 1993 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Harding Route 5.7 III 1957 Warren Harding Bea Vogel
Hell's Hollow 5.10a 1985 Ken Ariza Doe DeRoss Nick Arms Mark Carpenter
Holidays 5.8 R/X 1986 Scott Cosgrove Jenny Naquin
Home-Boys 5.11a Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Hoosier's Highway 5.10c R 1974 Steve Shea Molly Higgins Larry Bruce Lou Dawson
Hooter Alert 5.10c Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Horse Play 5.9 A3 VI 1984 Steve Grossman Sue Harrington
The Hundredth Monkey 5.11b 1990 Deanne Gray Rolland Arsons
I Don't Know 5.10a 1990 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
I Don't Remember 5.9 1990 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
The Inconsolable Buttress 5.7 A3 III 1960 Mark Powell Beverly Powell Dave Rearick
Isoceles, Left 5.9 1972 Linda Halverson Rick Sylvester
John's Other Chimney 5.4 A1 II 1953 John Ohrenschall Marry Ann Corthell
Jump for Joy 5.9 R 1967 Yvon Chouinard Joy Herron
Just Do Me 5.10d Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Just for Starters 5.10a 1992 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
The Kids are All Right 5.7 1986 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
Knuckleheads 5.10b 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Kung Pao Chicken 5.10b 1982 Dan Hare Kathy Cassidy
Laughing at the Void 5.9 A3 V 2000 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Le Bachar 5.11b 1982 John Bachar Mike Lichlinski Mari Gingery
Leaning Tower, Traverse 5.5 II 1957 Chuch Wilts Ellen Wilts G.B. Harr
Lonely Dancer 5.10c 1979 Dave Yerian Shary McVoy Bruce Morris
Lower Arch Traverse 5.3 I 1957 Krehe Ritter Mara Unterman Judy Beyers
Lunatic Fringe 5.10c 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
Lunch Ledge Direct (Space Case) 5.8 A4 IV 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Lynnea's Birthday Surprise 5.10a 1986 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Mac Daddy 5.11a 2002 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Marginal 5.9 R 1970 Ken Boche Mary Bomba Joe McKeown
Mass Assault 5.9 1972 Ken Boche Dennis Hennek Judy Sterner Russ McLean Sibylle Hechtel Tim Auger Mike Farrell
Middle Cathedral Rock, Northwest Buttress 5.6 II 1953 Bill Dunmire Marj Dunmire Jack Davis Dale Webster Dick Long Dick Houston
Middle Cathedral Rock, Northwest Face III 5.7 1957 Les Overstreet Jerry Gray George Ewing 1959 Margret Young Steve Roper
Mirror, Mirror Left 5.10b R 1985 Eric Brand Jonell Geller
Moby Dick, Center 5.10a 1963 Herb Swedlund Penny Carr 1963 Frank Sacherer Steve Roper
Mother of the Future 5.11a 1989 Joel Auger Clint Cummins Nancy Kerrebrock
Movin' Like a Stud 5.10d 1978 Pat Timpson Julie Brugger Bob Crawford Dave Anderson
Movin' to Montana 5.8 1992 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
Mr. Pink-eyes 5.11d 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Mud Shark 5.8 1980 Billy Serniuk Charleen Serniuk Jack Dodalou
My Rhombus 5.10a 1986 Dan McDevitt Sue Bonovich
Mystic Mint 5.11b 1992 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Nevada Falls, Left Side 5.6 A4 II 1960 Royal Robbins Lin Ephraim
New Suede Shoes 5.10c Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
No Teats 5.10a 1986 Susan Lilly Tucker Tech
North Dome, South Face Route III 5.7 1957 Mark Powell Wally Reed 1960 Mort Hempel Irene Ortenberger Steve Roper
North Dome, Southwest Face 5.9 1968 Bev Clark Chuck Pratt
The Nose 5.9 C2 VI 5.13b 1958 Warren Harding Wayne Merry George Whitmore 1993 Lynn Hill
Nutcracker 5.8 1967 Royal Robbins Liz Robbins
Nutter Butter 5.12b 1992 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
On the Waterfront 5.9 A5 VI 1986 Steve Bosque Mike Corbett Gwen Schneider
Peter's Out 5.12 1978 Peter Croft Tami Knight
Pigs in Space 5.12 1978 Peter Croft Tami Knight Larry Zulim
Pink Panther 5.11a 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Poker Face 5.10b 1986 Dan McDevitt Sue Bonovich
Polymastia 5.10d 1994 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson
Power Failure 5.11a 1975 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis Mark Vallance
Priceless Friends 5.10a 1988 Mike McGrale Urmas Franosch Marlo Finney Marty Lewis
Pringles 5.11b 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Psycho-Betty 5.9 1989 Eric Gompper Linda Gil-Martin
Reality Check 5.10c 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Reticent Wall 5.7 A5 VI 1995 Steve Gerberding Scott Stowe Laurie Stowe
Rixon's Pinnacle, South Face 5.8 A2 III 5.11d 1948 Chuck Wilts Ellen Wilts 1974 Tobin Sorenson John Bachar
Royal Cornpad 5.10a 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Sailin' Shoes 5.10d 1978 Bruce Morris Dave Austin Chuck Neifield Gary Robbe Peter Thurston Val Lecont
Sargantana 5.9 A5 VI 1997 Pep Mesip Silvia Vidal
Savage Amusement 5.11b 1988 Ed Collins Joan Collins Ken Ariza Tucker Tech
Second Thoughts 5.10a Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Sex Drive 1988 Tucker Tech Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Siberian Swarm Screw 5.10a 1972 Jim Donini Steve Wunsch John Bragg Kevin Bein Bev Johnson
Skinheads 5.10d 1991 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Slingshot 5.12a 1990 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt
Sloppy Seconds 5.5 1972 Jerry Anderson Elsie Anderson
Sloth Wall 5.7 1972 Steve Miller Jerry Anderson Elsie Anderson
Sorry Poopsie 5.8 1989 Don Reid Susan Reid
Space Case (Lunch Ledge Direct) 5.8 A4 IV 5.10c 1961 Yvon Chouinard Wally Reed 1976 Ray Jardine Linda McGinnis
Mt. Starr King, Northwest Face 5.9 II 1970 Ken Boche Mary Bomba
Stephanie's Corner 5.8 1991 Stephanie McCormack Walt Shipley
Strangers in the Night 5.10b 1972 Jim Donini Rab Carrington Bev Johnson Steve Wunsch
Supplication 5.10c 1971 Barry Bates Bev Johnson
The Syllable 5.8 1971 Rick Sylvester Sibylle Hetchel
Sylvester's Meow 5.11a 1986 Rick Sylvester Sue Odom
Teacher's Pet 1988 Dave Yerian Cade Loyd Ken Ariza Merry McGrath-Braun
Thunderhead 5.11d Jim Beyer Janice Linhares 1985 Jonny Woodward Maria Cranor
Tooth or Consequences 5.11b 1986 Charles Cole Lidija Painkiher
Twisted Road VI 2003 Paul Tureki Kristen Kramer Greg Collins
Unagi 5.10c 1988 Clint Cummins Nancy Kerrebrock
Unnamed but Beautiful 5.10c 2001 Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Uppity Women 5.10c 1990 Lin Murphy Denise Matenson
Warm Up Crack 5.10a Dan McDevitt Sue McDevitt Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson
Watermelon Rind 5.9 A3 V 1971 John Svenson Sharon Young Kent Stokes Bob Schneider
Waverly Wafer 5.10c 1970 Jim Bridwell Barry Bates Bev Johnson
West Side Story 5.10b 1989 Tucker Tech Sue Harrington
William's Climb 5.10c 1989 Jerry Anderson Sigrid Anderson Lynnea Anderson William Anderson Rob Kroeckel
Winter of Our Discontent 5.1 1989 Tucker Tech Sue Harrington
Winterlewd 5.10b 1990 Lin Murphy Jane Koski Mia Ongelma
Zoner 5.11b 1985 Mark Spencer Shirley Spencer Floyd Hayes
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Nutsonthechin, Wisconsin
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Sep 13, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
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Sue Bonavich and Sue McDevitt are the same lil' Sue..... FYI (marriage)
Tracy Dorton is 103% male
Butterfingers: Charley is a girl?
Freaks of nature: are they all girls? Cary Hansen?
Watkins S face: Brooke is a guy
Mud Shark 5.8 1980 Billy Sernick Charleen Sernick Jack Dodalou
(Billy is Blitzo aka Sally aka Bluto. His last name is Serniuk as is Charleens, his wife.
Check out the Blitzo Photo Gallery here on SuperTopo:
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/progallery.html?gid=23
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 01:02am PT
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thanks for the corrections Russ...
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 10:43am PT
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Midwife Crisis 5.8 Lin Murphy, Nancy Kerrebrock
One member of the FA team was quite preggers (What was it Clint? 8 months?)
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Sep 14, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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Mary Braun, sneaking away from Werner to solo 5.11-5.12 on the cookie. HOLY CRAP is Mary a bad ass!
P
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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> Midwife Crisis 5.8 Lin Murphy, Nancy Kerrebrock
> One member of the FA team was quite preggers (What was it Clint? 8 months?)
Yeah, Nancy was 7 or 8 months pregnant that weekend. Lin had that route name picked out far in advance, and just needed to borrow Nancy and find some new line to climb. I think they decided that route may have been done before. It is now listed in the supertopo guidebook as Stand and Deliver. While liebacking, the baby on board was kicking pretty hard when his swimming space was reduced! That was in 1993, May or June.
Later the same weekend, they did the FA of Baby Face, over by Mirror Lake. There was a third person on that FA, but I don't remember who - was it Em? Denise?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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pretty cool history behind the route names...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 17, 2008 - 12:50am PT
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from the Andy's Inferno summit register... the first all female ascent (14th of the route) made October 13, 1974 by Molly Higgins, and Barb Eastman
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 13, 2008 - 02:27am PT
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bump
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 13, 2008 - 10:04am PT
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 25, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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Bump for the ladies
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Feb 27, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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I did Lunatic Fringe [10c] and the Center Route on Independence Pinnacle [10d] one afternoon in 76 with Julie Brugger.[sp?]
She led the hard pitches in fine style, but backed off one of the upper pitches of the Center route even though it was "only 5.9" It was steep, loose and dirty, so I got a turn.
She was a great free climber, short but really strong.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 10, 2009 - 01:52am PT
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Thanks to Ed Hartouni for remembering me (Jan Baker Sacherer). Unfortunately I will never know what my potential as a rock climber was, due to various circumstances. Certainly when I began climbing with Layton Kor in 1963, no one ever imagined that a woman would lead. In fact, most of us leaned over backwards to look feminine (ie. lots of makeup) in spite of engaging in such a masculine sport (see photos below).
I did go out to Yosemite in 1965 to spend the summer climbing, but broke my wrist the first week there, catching a heavy guy on a 40 foot leader fall while belaying in slings. My wrist was jammed up against the hauling bag. It was almost worth it though since a lot of men in those days wouldn’t climb with a woman, claiming that she couldn’t hold a leader fall. At least no one ever ran that by me again! However, several tourists in Camp 4 that summer (it was the pet campground then) did take it upon themselves to ask me when I was going to give up my climbing nonsense and get married and have children "like a real woman". When I did get married, my husband who was a great climber, didn’t want me to climb?!
Later after I was living on my own again, I introduced Barb Eastman and Molly Higgins to the Valley in the fall of 1973, (we had all taught together at Colorado Outward Bound that summer), doing my first leading with them on a typical Valley chimney. After that I departed for easy snow mountains in the Himalayas and graduate school in Europe, and academia took over my life.
I did take great pride in Molly and Barb however, when they sent a photo to me in Nepal, of themselves on top of El Cap after they became the first all woman team to do it.
Go girls!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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May 10, 2009 - 02:13am PT
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Here's a couple of historic gals, right now
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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May 10, 2009 - 02:35am PT
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So BTW, where is the El Cap parasol portrait of the OP?
This thread is left wanting, without it!
Some help here?
Edit;
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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May 10, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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Thank you, Jaybro, for posting this up.
Melissa is a great all-around climber and great climbing partner. We were on Zodiac in that shot, which she thought was a good choice for my first Yosemite wall. We were climbing in good style, fashion-wise anyway. Good times. Thank you, M.
-Kate.
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