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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2008 - 01:55am PT
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Thanks for the background, Juan.
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Ricardo Carlos
Trad climber
Off center, CO.
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:26am PT
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Juan
I came to the conclusion; falsely I see the VW Route was a myth.
Late 70 something I met some Arizona climbers at camp who gave me a topo of the VW route after doing it. Directions to finding it were as sketchy as Werner’s directions to Laguna Hansen when we caught up with him and perhaps John V. in a VW van.
The same trip a hammer was dropped on a almost clean ascent of Pam Am and the Giraffe was climbed by two other climbers.
From tales of being chased by rattlers at camp, being stopped by the federalis (sp) on the way in , finding a rock-cave with pottery , driving as fast as possible yet not to fast with an injured climber in the back of my 74 Datusn pick up to Balboa Hospital then blowing back just making it across the border before it closes, Having my truck broken into only to return gear I loaned out, to all the great climbs and climbers even if the place is a myth.
Sims
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Jan 28, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
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eees no meeeth...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 12:28am PT
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Where is Senor Wences when you need him?!?
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dr. death
climber
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hey steve, by chance i just found a few pics of the trip that scott, carl, ross and i did there in april 73 scott and carl completed the first of the pan am and ross and i were on the executive 1st. if i can figure out how to post them i will. the blow up of carl in the "maw" is one of them. nice trip yelling back and forth on the routes, good weather, great time. we tried in march but got snowed out before we left the car.
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apogee
climber
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I did the PanAm in '96, returning to the vehicle just after dark. Was sitting in the dancing-bear decorated VW van of my partner Rob for no more than 10 minutes, about to quaff a Guinness, when a couple of rifles poke into the van, aimed by a couple of bandanna-faced banditos. They yelled us out of the van, had us lay face down/spread eagled on the ground, while Rob says 'Somos buena gente! Somos buena gente!' (We're good people!). Words to live by!
One bandito kept a rifle trained on us, while the other went through the van. They were obviously looking only for cash- the haul bag was of little interest- and asked where our wallets were. Rob points to the dash, while the bandito with the gun over us yelled 'Suelo! Suelo!' (Get down!), and punctuated his intent with a couple of shots into the ground about 2' from my head. Rob got down.
After finding all of about $20, they disabled the van by ripping the ingition wires off of the coil, and threw the keys out of the van. They then wandered off into the dark, leaving us sweating in the cold wind, wondering if we were gonna catch a cap in the head.
Eventually we got up, searched around and found the keys under the van, re-attached the ignition wires, and got the hell out of there. I haven't been back to Mexico since.
Great route, though!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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And a hearty Black Death to ya Mark! Any shots from that historic trip would be awesome especially of the "first-rate bivies indulged in" on the Executive Route FA. Tales of any sort equally appreciated so type away if you feel inclined!
I recall a slide of Scott's of Karl Karlstrom hiking with a giant water carbouy lashed onto a Kelty packframe! His comment at the slideshow "that load is well over a hundred pounds in case you don't think he's strong!"
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meg - tp
Trad climber
tucson, az
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Partner wanted - Ive been obsessed with el gran trono blanco since hearing about it several months ago and wish to make a voyage there between March 15th and 22nd - hoping to bag as many routes as possible during that time.
Logistics:
While I dont have a high clearance vehicle, spanish speaking abilities, or prior knowledge of the area but ... I do have aid and long free climbing experience, with some self rescue / first aid experience.
Wish to climb: as much as possible - can follow ~5.11 and lead ~9's or 10's gear + C3. Ive never done a nail up, but have a pin rack and would be willing to give it a go.
 Let me know (mcurry@email.arizona.edu)
-Meghan
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Mimi
climber
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Find some Tucson climbers that know some San Diego climbers and you're more than halfway there.
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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meg-tp / Meghan,
It looks like your trip plan is coming together, so I just e-mailed to you. As we had discussed a couple months ago, I will help with the beta.
-John S.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 12, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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Based on my notes over the years, this thread, and the new AAJ searchable online database, here is a tentative Giraffe ascent list.
Giraffe ascents
FA Hugh Burton, John Long, Ray Ochoa 1975
Werner Landry, John Vawter, March 1978
Tom Scott, Adrian Almodovar, April, 1981
Dave Wonderly, Jack Tripper, Jeff Elgar, Spring 1984
Craig Fry, Erik Erickson, 1985
John Middendorf, Jeff Hollenbaugh, February 1993
Brendan Pegg, Tony Sartin, October 1996
Jean Marc Clerk, Lionel and Damien Daudet, February 1997
Steve Muse, Tommy Thompson, ??
I know that Werner repeated it with Mark Richards in the 1990's, and I think Mark repeated it with Alejandro Gastellum. but I don't have the dates. Alejandro knows a Mexican climber climber who soloed it.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 12, 2008 - 03:54pm PT
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John Vawter,
I'm pretty sure there's more than that...especially in more recent time. I have done the Pan Am, Giraffe and Leaving on a Jet Plane with diferent partners and thought the place to be beautiful and a little wild. The south gully was brutal the first time down and thanks to Mark and Werner cutting the trail down the north side, the hike was way easier. I bet it's over grown now...
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 13, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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There have been numerous other ascents. Based on the requests that I get for info, I'm guessing there are one or two attempts per year. I rarely get the subsequent trip report, and I'm guessing the failure rate is high. Many people give up on the approach or get lost when attempting Pan Am or Giraffe.
My info has it that Billy Westbay was in on the FA of Giraffe w/ Burton and Long. Can anyone confirm that?
Steve,
About 5 years ago, I led a crew to enhance the trail from the north for access to the east face. It's about due for a trim, but last I heard, still in good shape.
Enjoyed your pics from JTree. Highly inspirational.
John S.
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museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
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Mar 13, 2008 - 10:57am PT
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John,
That's good news that the trail see's some gardening and that your still doing work down there...after all you are the park superintendent! Have you seen Mark or Werner lately? Have been climbing recently? I miss the place man! I might go down just to hang out...drink beer and drive round, just for old times. Keep in touch, ok?
Steve
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 13, 2008 - 01:41pm PT
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In response to various PMs. ugh Burton, Ray Ochoa and I did the 1st ascent of the Giraffe (named so because it felt like we were sticking our necks out) on Thanksgiving weekend, 1975. We drove in from San Diego, hiked down to the base and fixed two pitches, climbed most of the wall the next day (bivied in slings), topped out about noon the following day, hiked out and drove home. One bivouac at the base of the wall, and one on the wall. Finito.
JL
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Mar 13, 2008 - 05:08pm PT
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Sorry Steve! I knew that, but spaced. So I added you guys to the list, but I don't have the date.
It's not supposed to be a complete list, just what we know. Might as well put it all down here because there's no better place. For example, I never knew Ray Ochoa was on the FA. I though it was just Hugh and John. You'll see some say that Billy Westbay was with them. I knew that wasn't right.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Straight from the Grand Giraffe's mouth!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Mar 29, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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I just read most of this thread. What fantastic memories. Almost impossible to believe I was first there 36 years ago with Fred Becky, and did the Gran Giraffe 34 years ago.
Getting old, but man, did we have some great adventures. Is there a guide book for the Throne? Seems like every generation redoscovers the place for themselves.
And what hardcore SoCal climber doesn't have their own Throne story??
JL
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 30, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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Hey Largo,
We have had a "no guidebook" policy since the 70's. I did have to write one though, in order to beat someone out who planned to publish for personal profit. The guy had never climbed there! There are two copies - in Mexico D.F. and Washington DC Library of Congress. My 357 pages of beta is copyrighted in the USA and Mexico. Feel free to e-mail if you want more info. You must have missed the brouhaha in 2004.
The absence of a guidebook means that there is still unspoiled adventure, not so different than when you first experienced it in the early 70's.
Beckey is still rockin' Baja with me. Here are some photos from last year:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=572033&msg=572033#msg572033
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