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ninjah
Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
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Oct 16, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I did some stance drilling last week in the valley with brian b on his and norms route to the right of the royal arches, it was just as you described it ! Fun, and scary and good old fashon hard work!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 16, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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BLaw - you're confusing redpoint with onsight. Now - answer the question *
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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Naw, Al Dude… I’m not confused… That wasn’t my point!
No, she didn’t redpoint the pitch. Are you upset? :)
Nice, Ninjah!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 17, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Bill O;...I replaced those bolts on Deep , Shallow and Twisted......they were all 1/4 " bolts...the first one was deep ...the second one was shallow...and the 3rd one was twisted........(They are all bomber now.....I didn't want to lead the route as it was.....so I replaced them, and then lead the climb.....it's a good one....)...
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BillO
Boulder climber
Whittier, CA
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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Thanks Todd. Should we change the name to Bomber, Bomber and Bomber now?
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 17, 2009 - 01:46am PT
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Nice shot Billy. Hey, are those my f*#king shoes? They are ant they, damn. I led that thing. I just clipped them, didn’t check them. I think it was a fine route. Fact is you and Robby put up a some nice stuff out there. I think the name should remain.( funny ) It’s a good one! shoot a e-mail let me know what you are doing.
Cheers, Bruce.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Oct 17, 2009 - 02:30am PT
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Yeah Linda LOO!!!
Way to go lady, looks like some really good climbing.
Hope you are well and I'll see you soon.
Peace,
Mucci
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 17, 2009 - 02:41am PT
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Bill O....the name should remain Deep, Shallow, and Twisted;...a reminder of days gone by when climbers actually drilled on the lead, and the bolts weren't bomber......That Bond Boulders area is wonderful;..lots of cool climbs, sunny location, shortish approach, and never any people.....there are WAY more climbs there than in any guidebook too.....it's a wonderful magical place....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Oct 17, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Not upset - just curious.....who did redpoint the pitch ? ^
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Technically, the pitch hasn’t seen a redpoint yet, because I got a toprope to the last bolt. I know, I know… such poor style… :) Maybe George and I will get a chance next week, in addition to some new stances… Hope so.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 24, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Keep the rack simple...
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Apolobamba
Trad climber
Boise, ID
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Oct 24, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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Hey Wadey Ice,
Cheers to Bryan Law, I have been digging his new routes in TM this summer. They have been pretty fun.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Oct 24, 2009 - 11:01pm PT
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Todd are you and Minerals the only ones buying that color of spray paint from the "Great Orange "Box?....
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 25, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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Hey, Billy
Gordon bumped up your junk? Cool!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey Al Dude… Angry Dwarf got its first redpoint last week. All is right in the world again!!!
Apolobamba, thanks for the kind words! Glad that you have been enjoying the routes! We’ve had a blast putting them up!
Miller, I stopped using spray paint… Tuolumne winters are just too hard on the stuff and it flakes off after one winter – worthless.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 21, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
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This is a stance, isn't it?..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 23, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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Another old photo.....always on the lead......never on rappel...
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BillO
Boulder climber
Whittier, CA
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Dec 24, 2009 - 10:34am PT
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Both routes are in the Barker Dam area JT.
Hey Todd I'm not sure witch is harder, drilling by hand or trying to hold that big power drill over your head.
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Tea
Trad climber
Behind the Zion Curtain
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Dec 24, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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Ground up! gotta love it.
And remember....just say no to squeeze plays!
(if the graphic causes any seizures...I will remove it)
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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Dec 24, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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Sometimes you need to climb really badly and have to get it done before work.
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