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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 11:20am PT
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Not in the same class at all, but here's an end-of-day shot.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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"""The act of the first ascent was a team effort, Randy broke up the team, and took something from me that was important (as noted, one of the best routes in JT), thats stealing."""
Craig, I just wanted to say, nothing written in a guide book takes away from what you envisioned or what you started to put up. If you were doing it strictly for the recognition, then yeah, you got robbed. If you were doing it because it was a spectacular thing to do... you still own that.
This coming from a 48 year old "regular climber" that has been watching the leading edge climbers for over 30 years. I dream about having the imagination and nerve that you FAsionists have. I'm in awe of all of you, from John Long to Dean Potter... just in awe.
BTW, did Figures when I was 38... best climb and best lead of my life... I still shake thinking about it. Such a Savage was amazing, too. Great route!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Figures on a Bumpscape.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oct 10, 2010 - 01:48pm PT
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30th Anniv. Ascent
photo Kevin Powell
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 10, 2010 - 02:56pm PT
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Years ago I witnessed a remarkable fall on Figures. I was sitting across on the sunny side watching a strong confident fellow leading the first pitch. He was up at the bolt you clip before heading across the traverse, but had not clipped it yet. He was leaning out a bit, holding on to a good flake and taking in the view when the flake broke.
The next bolt below was under that flap you can see at the bottom of KP’s photo posted above, below the frame of the photo. It broke out of the rock. If you do the route you can still see the dish in the rock, and the very last bit of the old ¼” hole there next to the newer bolt if you look for it.
The guy fell down into the treetops, but was safely caught and not injured. I was not the only one to see this, perhaps the climber, his belayer or another witness will recall?
I also remember that Julie Lazar walked over under the climb after the fall and picked up an old 1/4" bolt. Of course the hanger was still clipped to the guys rope. This could have been the bolt which pulled, or perhaps it was dropped by someone during the second ascent...
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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Oct 10, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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beautiful picture. but then i happen to like white shirts.
away is such a great place to photograph from.
... still trying to take my eyes off it
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Oct 10, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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^^^^ Classic Radical ^^^^
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Oct 10, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
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ttt for figures. I've done that route 4 times. Once did it 2 times in a row. Led every pitch, followed every pitch. Never fell off (yay me). Suits my style perfectly; bordering on steep - delicate, balancey, technical - no need to pull hard, relax the grip and let the calves do all the work.
It is just exquisite. The cold winds do blow out there. Several times, my snot was leading the way.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 11, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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Tones - We really need a photo credit and ID of the climbers on that one...
Obviously from back in the day when the belay was still located halfway across the traverse.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Oct 11, 2010 - 01:24am PT
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RK & SG, no?
What a crazy thread! What a crazy climb! We have pictures too boot.
All that's missing now is a love triangle.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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I'll prolly never get on it. That traverse is pretty daunting. I watched a party bail on it once.
I like 10b's, but that one is ballsy. I give props to all who do it. Not to mention the lead!
Nice route.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I have a stormy relationship with Figures myself;......I hopped on the route right after the first ascent....probably about 1978 or so. Ian Carter lead the first pitch;...did a bang up job;...cruised it. I followed no problems and we were at the hanging belay.....I lead off the belay and just at the crux, about 15 feet out from the belay, just before the stance;...I pitch;.....20 - 30 foot swinging fall directly onto the belay;.....that sucks.....after that;....we bailed;....that sucked too. Years later, tail no longer between my legs...I went back with Kelly Vaught and Malcom Best and I led all the pitches, walked the thing, declared it nothing, sent, crushed it, and didn't even get a mild pump,..didn't flench, whine, whimper, or balk......Haven't been back on the thing since;...that was in 1985;.....26 years ago.....probably over due to return and show that climb who is master and who is slave.......afterall;...it's just up the street from my house.......................................................
Dave Evan;....man, beast, or myth................
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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reposted.
In 1978 I was way out west visiting and climbing With Maria C.
We were at the base during the 1st ascent of Figures. If I remember it was Randy, Dave and Jim Angione climbing and a small crowd of others gawking. There were some tense moment still the FFA was beautifully done. They all considered this route to have been a real monkey on their backs, which was the working title at that time, and were real glad to be done with it. I clearly remember pimpin' Randy to call it by his alternate name Figures on a Landscape and not Monkey on my Back. Figures on a Landscape was so much more poignant and poetic a name than Monkey on my Back.
Maria and I went back the next day for the 2nd FA. We had the whole Wonderland to ourselves and were greated at the approach by an incredible herd of desert big horn sheep. We felt blessed by good omens! Though nervous I led pitch 1 in my best style with only the big horns for an audience. Of course Maria made the 2nd pitch look like ballet. And I really enjoyed the 3rd. Wow that was a fabulous route! I am glad it is still highly regarded and not considered a "moderate trade route".
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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It IS a really cool route.....props to the FA team. F*#k!!!! Ballsy!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Climbing BUMP
also I just noticed Ksolem posted a story in 2007 on this thread and then retold the same story in 2010....it's OK Kris, it's a good story!
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Beautiful improbable line. Just enough bolts. Always thought that one of the later run out pitches was the mental crux - dfu terrain for sure. I have always given RV (and the rest of you, now) tremendous praise for this one.
There is another heady RV route called 'Fred' at Tahquitz that made for one of my best days climbing. Not quite so picturesque, but considerably more demanding. Was 10d when I did it, and I think since upgraded. Highly recommended if you like the demands of the sharp end. I'm interested to hear stories (lookin sketchy?) of first or later ascents, if anybody has been up on it.
 CB
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Fred is a classic. Wasn't Chas Cole in on that gig?
.10d is a good grade, some will say .11a. No harder than that but kinda serious.
also I just noticed Ksolem posted a story in 2007 on this thread and then retold the same story in 2010....it's OK Kris, it's a good story!
Funny. At least both versions are consistent. That was quite a fall.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Hey Bruce - glad to see you're climbing again. We missed you.
Just did Figures myself again a couple of months ago and it was every bit as good as I remembered it.
Get in touch if you want to share a rope sometime...
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