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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
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"What about Oli, DR, LongAgo, jstan -- has somebody got Jello's '69 beat?"
I'm reasonably sure that Oli did the Nose in the mid 1960s. It's in Swaramandal.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
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Do Harding and Caldwell hold the record for the longest consecutive time spent on an El Capitan route? Were they beaten by the guys on the route which we dare not name?
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Reno
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Jun 13, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
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I thought it wasn't about how many el cap routes you have done but how many El Cap Climbers you have done. . .
150 gay points for that comment
OK, I'll chime in with my paltry 7 ascents
Salathe -2002
Nose -2003
Nose -2003 1 day ascent
Mescalito -2004
South Seas to PO -2005
Zodiac -2005 Solo
Eagle's Way -2006 Push
ZM -2006 bailed @ pitch 8 -unfinished business
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 13, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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The thread ask's "How many El Cap Routes have you done?" Not "How many times you have been up El Cap"
In my humble opinion: That means the one with the most number of different routes wins the point game.
The free climbing that is going on up there is truly bold badass stuff. Entirely a differnt game with different players. That thread would start off with a picture of Tommy Caldwell, not Gerby.
Steve it was a pleasure to meet you and your lovely wife on the top of the Zodiac last week.
Best Regards
T2
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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Hey Captain don't take me so literally my friend. My comments are only in reference to Shipoopoi's above post, using his analogy to express what I feel is most viable in regards to this thread.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
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How many points do you need for the free Toaster?
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
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I believe you recieve the new toaster after freeing your first route Russ. When you hit triple digit ascents I think you get the new color TV.
I wonder what you get after you free 100 routes
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:29pm PT
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"I wonder what you get after you free 100 routes"
Tendinitis .....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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hahaha.... looks like camp toast for me..... wait..... I *am* toast!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 13, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
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Anders,
> Do Harding and Caldwell hold the record for the longest consecutive time spent on an El Capitan route? Were they beaten by the guys on the route which we dare not name?
Neither, at least according to my recollection. See the 2006 thread Record for the slowest El Cap climb
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=185629&msg=185650#msg185650
where I posted:
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If we consider days continually on the wall, I think the recent records are:
 29 days, Wall of Early Morning Light, Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell, 1970
39 days, Wings of Steel, Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, 1981
42? days, Verano Magico?, Luis Gallego and Javier Gallego, 1985?
My memory on the last route is hazy - my recollection is that it was over 40 days.
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The Gallegos seem to be into staying up there for very long periods of time. In 1995, they spent 45 days doing a route called Mar Menor on Mt. Watkins (3/27 to 5/10).
http://www.senderistas.com/enciclopedia/index.php/Garc%C3%ADa_Gallego,_Jos%C3%A9_Luis
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 13, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
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Hmm, those Gallegos fellers seem to like being up there.
I wonder which climber has bivouaced the most times, total, on El Capitan? That is, adding every night on the wall (not the base or top) together?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 13, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
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Pete (PTPP) was telling me the other day in email that his FISH Ledge just went over the 365 nights mark..... that would be a year for you guys in Berkley....
Pretty impressive on a few fronts..... even if a guy does some standard times, that is like 80 El Cap routes.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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CHICKS ON THE BIG STONE
I have 20 routes and 24 ascents. My neighbor Sue McDevitt has 26 ascents and we have to recount her routes but its around 12 or so. Beth has the most ascents for a woman, with 34 ascents on Hans' site right now (12 routes).
Aimee Aucoin has reported around 17 ascents on this topic and I would guess that after me she has the most number of routes ascended on El Cap by a woman.
Steve Schneider reports 18 ascents for Heather, but I am sure that includes repeats. I used to know how many El Cap routes Kate had - I think its around 9 or so with a lot of hard ones: Virginia, Mescalito (solo), ZM, Lost in America, The Straw?, Wyoming Sheep Ranch, Reticent, Tangerine Trip, Born Under a Bad sign (in progress? assume success is eminent). Kate's into quality, not quantity I would say.
Other notables: Amanda Tarr and Kathy Dicker have quite a few routes and Lorna Illingworth, Erika Kutcher (RIP) and Jean Redle have a fair number as well.
At any rate, chicks are tearing up the Captain pretty good I would say!
I was most inspired by Amanda Tarr and Sue McDevitt as I started my wall climbing adventure. Amanda for her amazing trip reports on RC.com and Sue for her first ascent, huge number of ascents, first one day of the Nose with Nancy Feagin and her appearance in the Green Gear Video Guide to Aid Climbing, which I must have watched 20 times while learning to aid climb. Also of course hugely inspired by Bev Johnson, after whom I pushed myself to solo the Dihedral Wall as my hardest adventure on El Cap personally, irrespective of the grade of the climbing.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 27, 2008 - 10:46pm PT
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I gotta do the arithmetic, Russ, but I think I'm sitting around 360 nites of big wall camping on the side of El Cap [not counting summit and base bivis] - almost every dang one in my Fish double Crab-O-Ledge.
35 routes and 36 ascents of El Cap, what with my recent climb of Born Under A Bad Sign with Kate.
Will try to get a trip report written and some photos uploaded for yous guys to see. Pretty Darn Hard route, mate!
Nice work, Holly. Time to get you on some A4 this fall, doncha think? Aurora's the one for you....
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
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The only time that counts is the first time.
I saw a hummingbird feed off a flower up there.
I was so beautiful.
I didn't want the climb to ever end ........
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 28, 2008 - 11:05am PT
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You'd have loved it up there this spring season, Werner. The hummingbirds were all over the place, especially in the flowers on the Bearing Straights of P.O. Wall. One morning on BUBS, a hummingbird flew right inside my portaledge straps, and buzzed around me for ten or fifteen seconds. I offered him some coffee, but he took off for flowers instead - amazing!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Just thought I would chime in here with my "impressive" total of 2!
More to mention the names of 3 oldtimers who many of you know"
The Nose with George Myers& The Salathe with Jim Donini back around 1972- 1973. Just had a long conversation with Jimmy Dunn about an hour ago.
He did the 1st ascent-solo of the Cosmos. He's still out there climbing-almost everyday. I just broke my ankle,AGAIN, and am spending more time than usual surfing the net. 1972
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Steve! You gotta talk to Jimmy Dunn and get him to post here on McTopo! I'd sure love to hear his tales. His was the first solo first ascent made on El Cap. I've climbed Cosmos - great route. We trundled one big-ass column of rock off the fifth or sixth pitch.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Jimmy is very modest and avoids publicity; however, I am hoping an article just written by him (today), will be published in Alpinist magazine. It is about the 1st free ascent of the Diagonal route in the Black canyon-done by him and the late Earl Wiggins. It is really GRIPPING! One pitch (rated 5.11) Jimmy did with 2 crappy pieces of gear-neither of which would of held any kind of fall. He essentially
soloed that pitch -way back in 1976!! Jimmy told me about Wiggins, on another occasion, soloing Outer Limits and Bridwell had to turn his back. They couldn't watch it, since they were certain he would fall. That was some bad ass kind of climbing back then. Jimmy emailed me the article and it was really well written. It's about time he finally wrote about his climbing exploits!
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big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
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Well, since this thread is at the top again, I'll reveal my meager numbers: 12 ascents by 9 routes.
Highlights were my getting into continuous push climbs with a 24.5 hour ascent of zodiac,
and a 32 hour ascent of the nose.
Last climb was 5 years ago, gotta get back up there before I get too old. 40 yr old now.
Drywall Paul.
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