Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 02:52am PT
|
History, style, and innovation bump!
|
|
Barbarian
Trad climber
The great white north, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
|
Jardine or a Wow Really thread on page 1?
Bump!
Jardine!!!
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
|
I would love to see a fisheye from this angle. You'd get the exposure and everything.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 12:49am PT
|
I went to alot of the services at the chapel in the early 80s. I remember Ray and his GF being there one Sunday. This was well after she got F-ed up on a BASE jump off El Cap. They were pretty somber, or say - really seeking God.
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
|
I visited Ray on his 46 ft sailboat when it was docked on San Diego Bay in the early/mid 80's (was invited over for dinner)! Talk was mainly centered around sailing. Him, a mutual friend and myself, and I was the n00b sailor so I mainly listened. I brought up climbing a few times, he was working on a design for micro cams at the time. He felt very betrayed by a once good friend of his (that many here would know, btw) who worked for THE largest and most well known company in the climbing/outdoor industry at the time. Anyway, long story short, d00d ripped him off for the design (caught him red handed). The fact that the guy intentionally betrayed him, hurt him more than losing the specs.
edit: i don't think what RJ did on the Nose was/is any worse than what Bridwell did elsewhere, eg. 1st pitch of New Dimensions! And a lot more people use/have used that chipped hold (ugly scar) than the number of people that have used the Jardine Traverse. BTW, everytime I have done ND (except the first time) i have avoided using that hold.
Personally, I think both are LAME, not justifying either incident! But there seems to be a double standard at work HERE.
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:53am PT
|
what's the free solo count on SR these days? I count 4.
|
|
nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:58am PT
|
Biotch, not that it matters, I think it's a memory correction.
It was Ray's, then wife, a hang gliding accident and she crashed into a building...
It was a tragic and incredibly sad accident that resulted in a serious head injury.
Her name escapes me at the moment........she was a good person.
edit Splitter...She was never the same...
She came back to work @ the deli for a tiny bit, but could not work correctly.. She could barely walk & her balance was off, which caused her to fall often.
I don't recall if she quit her job, or if the company laid her off .
Later....Ray divorced her and remarried.
Last time i saw Ray, it was 92 when i was working in T.M., He was hiking the PCT with his next wife and stopped by to say hi..
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2012 - 01:59am PT
|
S.Leeper - "SR" -- Wolfgang did it without the heal hook/straight jammed it! ...wild!
edit: Nita - yes, that is true. Ray and his wife got into hang-gliding for a while. Torrey Pines (san diego) was a very popular spot for the sport at the time. It was a serious hang-glider accident. She was still recooperating when I last saw him (they were still married). Sad, indeed!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 03:33am PT
|
bump
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
|
But yeah John Hansen, to free the Nose you use the Jardine chiseled traverse to archive that status.
So by the purest definition, it still hasn't been done in good style.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
|
When a man with only shoes, walks up to the middle of the big stone and puts up a new route, onsight, then it will have been done free, in good style.
Until then, I will grovel away in my own way, and admire the stories of my heroes.
|
|
Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
|
Is Ron Kauk(21/22 years old at the time)the belayer?
Edit: Bill Critchlow is the belayer.
|
|
Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
|
|
|
Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
|
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
|
^^^Yeah, check out his website. That dude just keeps on going. He has done a huge number of adventures since he left climbing.
His write-ups are pretty good.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
|
Bought some gear from his daughter in Berkeley?
She said he was now into thru-running.
Yes there was a friend in the gear batch, yes it was a proto...
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 07:03pm PT
|
Nita - Ray's first wife who had the hang-gliding accident in San Diego was named Linda.
I did not know Ray well, but climbed with him off and on. Toward me, someone he was not trying to impress or compete with, he was a nice guy. Smart, a bit introspective.
I'm not sure about all the talk about him being a clumsy or poor climber who just tried hard. At least in the mid-70s when I saw him, he was as strong as a bear and was pretty good at using that strength.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Jan 27, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
|
This was and is a top-ten all-time thread IMO. Especially thoughtful commentary by Roger, jstan, Peter, John Vawter, Warbler, Jello, Karl and others. Even Werner was at his thoughtful best in this one. I didn't have a strong opinion of Ray one way or another before reading this thread. His alleged sins were worse than I knew. On the other hand, his creativity and success in other ventures after climbing, and, as Roger pointed out, his part in changing the direction of free climbing, makes him a particularly interesting character.
|
|
McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 04:57pm PT
|
Wow! What a thread. I just spent a couple hours reading it from the ground up. I am only left with inspiration after reading all of this. Cheers. I wish it was an easier thing to go check out the Jardine Traverse!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!