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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jan 23, 2008 - 09:47pm PT
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Great shots Geno...almost bought a tear to my eyes. Love you and Laura...looking forward to Gunks Two!
Larry...wonderful thread.
Geno...remember how Adam use to make the Billy Face??
I just found some old pictures of climbing in New Mexico in 1972...I'll try to scan some and post.
Amazing Grace...1979
The legend Bob Murray (on the right) and me...1984...the birth of bouldering and climbing in the San Luis Valley.
The late Eric Guokas
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cowpoke
climber
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Jan 24, 2008 - 09:02am PT
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Bob -- love the Amazing Grace shot, both for the unique technique and also because I had just been thinking about this area at Garden of the Gods (I think that's AG at G of G, right?). In another thread, people were discussing Webster's influence in New Hampshire, reminding me of all the classics he put up right around where that picture was taken (including the route) like Over the Rainbow etc. Thanks!
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artmusicsouth
climber
VA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
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GENO,
Holy Cow man! Those pics from the South are the bomb! I learned to climb in the TAG area in the early '90's. That really brings back some memories for me.
I'd go to Steele before it was shut down (maybe even after) and even Jamestown. I LOVED Jamestown! Beat Sandrock in my book, but then came T-Wall (I am actually going there in a few weeks.) For some reason Jamestown held some kind of mystique for me. Not really sure why but I did some awesome routes there.
Once at Jamestown I was belaying a buddy up on a route far cliff-left (we called it Birthday Suit but I don't know if that name was legit.) I was anchored to this huge tree at the top and chilling out pretty well when I looked over to my left. About 10' from me was the largest copperhead I have ever seen, I mean it was the size of a rattler which in our parts means it was the size of my frikkin' leg! Scared the piss out of me!
Anotehr time I was at Steele with this ballet dancer named Sbieg from the Chezch Republic (he defected for his anti-communist views.) There was a tall wall to the left of Rat Crack (I think that was the name). We were TR'ing this wall and using some kind of mank rope that came from behind the Iron Curtain. I took a fall and was maybe 50' off the deck. As I fell the rope stretched all the way to the ground. I just about hit Sbieg in the head! I am freaking out about this rope and he just laughing his arse off at me as I take that flight down the wall.
You ought to start a new thread with these old Southern pics. I'll see if I can dig some of mine up. They aren't as classic as your though. Rob Robinson, Mark Cole, John Mosely, Shannon Stegg, Arno Ilgner were all guys I admired. They were it for us in the South and were quite a crew to look up to =D
By the way, how far is Reston from the Norfolk area? I am in Suffolk right by the Dismal Swamp where my driveway is the tallest thing around (excluding my homemade wall.) I don't get to climb much nowadays with job and family obligations and given I live 4 hours from anything.
Mark
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jan 24, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
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Thanks you guys. i'm loving this and thinking i may have to line up a scanner.
I grooved on the webbing sling weighted down with some pins.
So much the best
murf
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artmusicsouth
climber
VA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Bump so Geno can see my post and request ;)
Mark
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 24, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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More Goukas pictures please, Bob!
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Jan 25, 2008 - 06:40am PT
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Mark, LOVED your post and I will respond soon with more Southern Sandstone related pics and commentary. Geno
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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A few more, Steve Wunsch on North Sixshooter Peak (1971).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 28, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
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So those last shots are from what is now called something like the "Lightning Bolt's Analog" crack?
Then, there's that cool B&W pic of Pratt in the OW next door...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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So those last shots are from what is now called something like the "Lightning Bolt's Analog" crack?
I'm not sure -- we were on the original route, which at the time had a grade of III 5.8 A2.
Steve led the 2nd and 3rd pitches free (as I recall the 2nd was 10-ish and protectable;
the 3rd was 5.9 offwidth with no pro at all) before we got stopped at the final bolt ladder.
In those days North Sixshooter had a 2-hour approach hike, and was a bit lonelier place.
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Gooney
Trad climber
Longmont, CO
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Jan 29, 2008 - 10:25am PT
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As I recall from a 1980 ascent, the original route is on the same side, but to the left of Lightning Bolt Cracks. The chimneys and off-widths of the original route are Pratt's Crack on the other side of the tower.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2008 - 10:48am PT
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Gooney, that sounds right.
The unprotected offwidth I mentioned above could well be the analogue to Pratt's route. I've got a
slide somewhere of Steve leading that pitch, with blue sky showing through the tower below his feet.
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Gooney
Trad climber
Longmont, CO
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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While struggling up the original route, I saw Pratt's being climbed - through the crack. A couple of rattly tube chocks and a composed climber - Mugs Stump.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2008 - 07:08am PT
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This one's for Jello. Why?
Steve Larson on Dracula at Frankenstein Cliffs, 1978.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2008 - 09:53am PT
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Dueling hummingbirds?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2008 - 09:58am PT
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Jeepers,
Those early birds really flexed...
The big bird felt mutch less flighty.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Feb 20, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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...plus, the dude is wearin' that baclava.
Shoot, in them days, after topping out, while fumbling with your dachsunds, you could just eat your hat!
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Feb 20, 2008 - 11:15am PT
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I sure wish I still had one of them balaclavas.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho
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Feb 20, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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Those balaclavas rawked! When I pulled it off the head and wore it around my neck I really scored with the ladies.
I bought 3 of them for maybe 5 bucks at an army surplus store - along with some bullet-proof wool pants.
Back in the Pliocene.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Feb 20, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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Good as a kingsbury™ with baseball hat?
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