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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 31, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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^^wonderful tribute by Grossman.
Charles’ drive from 1981 to 1985 in the realm of bigwalls was really spectacular, his two solo first ascents—Space and Queen of Spades— were state of the art at the time, incredible efforts.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks John. I am still trying to sort all of this out...
Life is beautiful and horrid all at once but this has been devastating.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Me too, still in shock.
Charles had a way to bring out the best in people, when he wanted to. I think your piece reflects that well, thanks for those memories, and condolences.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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On the FA of "Big Brown Eye." Charles at the belay while CF follows me on the 2nd pitch.
Gordo on deck waiting for belay from Charles.
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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It hits hard when someone your age dies - and it seems to be happening all too frequently!
Although I don't think I ever climbed with him, I met or spoke to Charles a number of times circa 1986 or maybe 1987. I had an informal resoling business in Tucson, complete with an antique shoe press I bought for 15 bucks in a thrift store, and Charles became was my rubber supplier. At the time, he was traveling around and selling big slabs of sticky rubber out of the back of his car - I don't think he called it Stealth yet.
He was gracious and very helpful, sharing tips and advice on glues and resoling technique. He has gave me a very good price on the rubber. Maybe he was trying to see how well it performed in the field. In any case, the rubber was killer - far superior to the Boreal rubber available at the time. I still have a pair of Mariacher shoes I resoled with 5.10 rubber in the late 80s - I used them in a pinch not too long ago and they still climb great!
I will also be forever grateful to Cole and 5.10 for the legendary UFOs slippers they sold in the 1990s - cool and visionary at the same time. I did some memorable ascents in those. He really had a knack for advancing the ball in climbing footwear technology.
My condolences to his family and all who were close to him.
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Janet Wilts
Trad climber
Grand Teton National Park
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Aug 15, 2018 - 09:32am PT
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So sorry to hear this....
I remember him from years ago.......
I knew him as Charles Cole the 3rd......
Great guy.......
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Vic Klotz
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:04am PT
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I was driving through an industrial mall in North Hollywood probably around 1985 when I saw one of the unit garage doors open. There was a kid inside working with a bench-top grinder, working on what looked like a climbing shoe. This was so unusual to me that I had to check inside. That's when I met Charlie Cole.
I was a little star-struck because I was using a JT Guidebook with his name and picture inside. Charlie quickly put me at ease with his open and friendly style. He said his company was called 5.10 and the kid working on the shoe was resoling climbing shoes with his new climbing rubber. I told him about the Scarpas I was climbing in. He modestly suggested I might try his shoes, and handed me a pair of "blems" that he couldn't sell. Once I used them, I had all my other shoes resoled in his 5.10 rubber.
His mom was the only other employee at the time, doing the books, and I guess running things. She told me that before the company started, Charlie was looking for some direction in his future. Since he had advanced degrees in Business and Chemistry and loved to climb, she suggested he combine everything together. 5.10 was born.
Charlie also told me to do the Nose without taking any food. This was the only suggestion I didn't take him up on.
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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Aug 16, 2018 - 05:52am PT
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Another hole in the climbing universe as Another legend goes down. Didn’t really know Charles but I certainly admired his work. Stealth rubber was a total game changer. Even though I would buy other brand shoes for my skinny feet I would immediately have them resoled with Stealth. Went up to get the 3rd on Space but my partner and I didn’t have enough mojo working to finish the job.. It is still on my tick list.. On top of all the talent and genius that comprised Charles he was evidently a wonderful human being too. What a combo..
My sincere condolences to Charles friends and family.
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Klimmer2.0
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 16, 2018 - 11:04am PT
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Just like to give my sincere condolences to all the family and friends ...
I met CC3 in the Camp 4 parking lot 1984 and we talked. Saw him manufacturing bigwall aid gear ...cutting cable, setting swages etc, out of the back of his car. He was heading up to Half Dome to solo a route. Very friendly and super knowledgeable. We talked for a while.
On the same trip I had met the late Neil Sugerman from the Camo 4 board and we were climbing for about a week together before he fell and broke his hip on “ Agua Knobby” in TM ... but that’s another story ...
Saw Charles again several times at a few Mt Woodson Bouldering contests organized by Carmel et al. At that time he was 5.10 world renowned. Stealth is certainly the best rubber ever. I resoled everything with it and still do, even my bowling shoes lol (joke I don’t bowl really).
Is Stealth or C4 gonna be still available for resolves? Adidas should name the rubber “Stealth CC3” to honor him.
Rest In Peace Charles ... brilliantly smart climber and a truly nice guy.
Hopefully nothing I’ve said offends anyone. No politics here in my post. Wouldn’t want to get banned over saying condolences ...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 16, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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Sorry to see Charles go so young. I have some great memories of climbing with Charles, and some not so great ones. While I loved his diet (diet coke and donuts) I have never had a climbing partner that got me into more trouble. First there was the woman he introduced me to that lived in the Palisades that there was no chance that I could afford her but tried anyway. So sexy but liked lobster too much.
Then there were the routes! Charles was always ambitious with his route selection. He would pick something right at the limit of his abilities and try to lead it. After his somewhat regular failure he would have MY gear in half the route and he would 'invite' me to try the route. Most of the time we would emerge unscathed but there were a few bruised and sprained parts that I would not otherwise have chosen to aquire. These 'epics' have left me with some vivid, and at this point fond memories.
One of my favorites is when Charles decided to lead 'Good to the Last Drop' in Josh. He would not commit to the long runout to the last bolt and I went up to finish the route. I was familiar with it since I was on the first ascent but had never actually led that section. I climb up and finally get to the bolt. Unfortunately I had left the rack on the ground and so I climbed up another step or two to get more secure. Charles starts accusing me of showing off but when I tell him to look next to him and he sees the rack is sitting on the ground he starts laughing so hard. I just happened to have a biner on my chalkbag that day and so had something to clip in with (thank god) and finished the route. We laughed about that one for a long time.
Then there were all the car races, him in his 914 and me in my 510. It didn't take him long to realize that his car was slower than mine and that he wasn't quite as crazy as I was on the road.
Good times, indeed.
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Aug 17, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Reading the posts about Sir Charles brought back a wave of memories from my fledging days at JT. I was a weekend warrior during the 80’s and when I first arrived, I was overwhelmed by the stacked talent ticking off one new FA after another. The comradery, humor, and intellect were among the best I’ve encountered; be it in business, school, or any other form of outdoor adventure. Those were among the best times of my life.
When I first met Charles he had pulled up in his well worn Honda, bragging to those around him that after 60,000 miles, he had yet to change the oil. “Who is this guy?” Before long I heard stories about his ‘Poodles’ rebellion, the long trips back into the Wonderlands, and his wall exploits in Yosemite. He was singularly focused, didn’t suffer fools, and when we first talked his eyes looked right through me. On one miserable day we played a round of chess and like many here, I was quickly humbled. Now he has my attention.
For me, he was an enigmatic figure and because he and I were built alike, I developed an internal competition to see if I can match his skills, so I climbed his free routes. Then took up wall climbing, but every time I made progress Charles kept upping the ante. After soloing the Zodiac in 87, I realized I didn’t have the chops for A4 soloing, but I’m forever grateful to Charles for his unintended inspiration and for being pushed to levels I wouldn’t have achieved otherwise.
RIP Charles, you have indeed led ‘a consequential life’.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 17, 2018 - 09:07pm PT
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Charles and I were driving around one of the loops in Yosemite when a ranger pulled us over for no good reason and asked for Charles' license. He asked the Man why he was getting pulled over and all we got was a load of gruff attitude. The dispatcher took the radio inquiry as Ranger Rick repeated "Yes, Charles David Cole". The voice on the other end of the radio said "Say hello for me will you". Rick was now our jolly best buddy as I quietly continued to seethe.
The dispatcher was none other than Janet Wilts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 26, 2018 - 08:57am PT
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Yeah, Charles was a Crystal Voyager.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Oct 26, 2018 - 06:02pm PT
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Thanks Roy, that made me laugh.
There was a lot of laughing going on back then!
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 21, 2019 - 03:28pm PT
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As found in this issue:
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 21, 2019 - 03:31pm PT
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Love the old JT guide pic. I spent lots of time with that addition. That's about when I started making trips down there. I miss those days.
BAd
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 21, 2019 - 08:48pm PT
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That image of Charles Cole climbing in the Japanese article is a photo that I took in 1984 when we put up the Competitive Edge (aka the Real Nose). Adidas/Five Ten has no permission to use it without any proper photo credit which they have somehow lost sight of since 2014 when I furnished them with several images of Charles for one use only. That same image will appear in the AAJ obit piece for Charles with my permission.
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Feb 22, 2019 - 01:20am PT
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That’s a shame Steve. I can remove my post if you like. I just happened to be at the Tokyo Airport yesterday and noticed that article that I thought Charles’ friends and family might like to see. I bet the editors of the magazine would be sympathetic to your concerns if you wrote them. It’s looks like Rock and Snow might be the reincarnation of the famed “Iwa to Yuki” of the past that went out of business a few years back.
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