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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I'm not sure where that Fixe came from but it was part of a study involving samples from many places around the Med as well as several tropical sea environments.
I'm seeing only bolts/anchors from the Dominican Republic.
UIAA apparently discussed this back in May, but, I can't seem to find any information from that discussion.
I don't see much, if any, reference to anchors on the Med. Instead, its "tropical marine environments" that seem to be the issue.
The UIAA reported in October 2009 that anchors used on routes in these environments weakened due to corrosion caused by the sea and year round wet climates.
It was found that 10 to 20 per cent would fail with a force of 1 to 5 KN applied. The Safety Commission will discuss minimum lifetime targets for anchors in marine environments, choosing a corrosion resistant material, and recommendations for anchors already in place.
Scary stuff.
Vested interest for me, as I'll probably be clipping bolts seaside in Finale Ligure in a couple of weeks...
Thanks,
-Brian in SLC
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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If you had Brad's Pinnacles guide, you would find these routes at the Balconies:
710. Happy Hamlin's Horrendous Hangover 5.10b R FA: unknown
711. If We Bolt It FA: Clint Cummins, Dennis Erik Strom, 11/1993
712. Bongloadash 5.8 FA(fs): James McConachie, Jon McConachie, 10/1985
713. Premeditated 5.5 A3 FA: Jim Bridwell, Craig Little, 2/1965
714. Where the Birds Hang 5.10a R FA: Joe Bryant ?, 1980s
715. Peregrine - Free 5.12a * FFA: Stu Polack, Marty Garrison, 12/1988
716. Peregrine 5.9 R A1 * FA: Dave Parks, Stu Polack, 1986
717. Conduit to the Cosmos 5.10d R *** FA(p1-p2): John Barbella, James McConachie, 1983
718. Conduit to the Cosmos - Continuation 5.12a FA(complete): James McConachie, John Barbella, 9/2002 FFA(p3): Tony(?) Hayden, __, 2004?
719. Pipeloads to Pluto 5.11c FA: Paul Gagner, James McConachie, <1991
720. Lava Falls 5.9 *** FA(fs): Jack Holmgren, W.V. Graham Matthews III, Keith Vandevere, Joe Bryant, 3/1982 FP(fs): Tom Higgins, placed the first few bolts, then did not continue
721. No Sense of Measure 5.11a ** FA: James McConachie, Jon McConachie, 10/1989
722. The Powers That Be 5.11b ** FA: Paul Gagner, James McConachie, 10/1989
723. Electric Blue 5.11a ** FA: Paul Gagner, Chris Bellizzi, 1988
724. Shake and Bake 5.10a R *** FA(fs): Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 5/1976
725. On the Threshold of a Scream 5.10b FA: James McConachie, John Barbella, <1991
726. Balconies - Regular Route 5.10b FA: Frank Sacherer, Howard Bradley, Steve Roper, 12/1961 FFA: Tom Higgins, Chris Vandiver, 5/1979 RBC: Clint Cummins, FOP, 2006
727. Digger 5.10a FA: Jim Beyer, Bob Sullivan, 10/1978
728. Hook and Drill 5.9 R FA: Jim Beyer, Janice Linhares, <1979
729. Better Without Bushes 5.10a R FFA: Dennis Erik Strom, Steve Wilcox, 1/2001
730. Raze the Buddha 5.11a FP: Dennis Erik Strom, 1/2006
731. Knifeblade Direct 5.8 FA: Ken Philips, Carl Martin, 2/1973
732. Stiletto 5.10d * FA: Norman Boles, John Gotti, 1988
733. Knifeblade 5.5 * FA: unknown
734. Blade Runner 5.4 FA: John Barbella, James McConachie, 11/1984 SA: bolts placed on subsequent solo ascent
735. Exit Route 5.6 FA: unknown
736. Echoes 5.8 FA(fs): James McConachie, Jon McConachie, 5/1986
737. Prairie Home Companion 5.7 R FA(p1): Jon Cochran, Gabe Carvey, 1984 FA(p2-p3, fs): Jack Holmgren, Keith Vandevere, David Zola, 5/1984
738. Nexus 5.11a ** FA(p1-p2, fs): Jack Holmgren, Malintha Winwood, Keith Vandevere, Bob Otter, 9/1984 FA(p3, fs): Jack Holmgren, was approached via a diagonal rappel, so an onsight FA
739. Sexus 5.8 R FA(fs): Jack Holmgren, Malintha Winwood, 9/1984
740. Plexus 5.6 R FA(fs): Jack Holmgren, Malintha Winwood, 8/1984
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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By the way, the "interesting" syntax on supertopo which uses 2 asterisks to start/end Bold Text does not like the above text with various asterisks.
If I try to edit it, I can't get to climb 720 and beyond.
I wanted to add:
FA(fs) means the bolts were placed from free stances (no aid) on the FA.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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Bbbbbbbecause...
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 26, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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one of these hangers came off a GUD bolt. put a SS hanger on said bolt
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
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Nice Bandito hangers!
Nice Dolt and Porter hangers, too! Where did Charlie use those things?
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Dec 27, 2010 - 12:49am PT
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Sheba
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Dec 27, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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"Why did Charlie use those things?" Homemade hangers are pretty cheap!
Bruce
ps- I can almost see using steel stock, but aluminum? Yikes!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 27, 2010 - 01:59am PT
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Hey Minerals-
Sheba is the aid line correct? Those are the only bolts on the route?
What is that thing rated these days? A3....
Mucci
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Dec 27, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Yes, Mucci. One lead bolt and two belay bolts, just like the topo. Got a half-written TR that I should finish up and post, maybe later this week.
Those Porter hangers are kind of sharp. No grinding, filing, or nothin’! Double yikes.
Hey Ken Yeager – not sure if you are at all interested, but if you don’t already have some of those homemade Porter hangers in your collection, I’d be happy to pass them along. If you already have some, I’d also be happy to keep ‘em.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Dec 27, 2010 - 02:20pm PT
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I did "Shake and Bake" ( above in the list of PNM Baclonies climbs) in the early 90's. Very scary........did those bolts get replaced?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 28, 2010 - 03:02am PT
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Many, but not all of the bolts on Shake and Bake were replaced on January 11, 2009 by Brian Biega, Erik Strom, F4Boy and myself.
p1: no bolts replaced (except anchor at end of pitch)
p2: all but first bolt replaced
p3: 2 of 3 bolts replaced
replaced with 1/2" x 6" glue-in bolts, courtesy of Brian (and all of us who helped pull/drill).
We replaced most of the bolts on Lava Falls the previous day, including a 1/2" x 6" glue-in pro for the crux on p1.
I owe a photo trip report on this....
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Dec 28, 2010 - 09:15am PT
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I stated this before in other threads, but "GUD" or "No GUD" on bandito hangers refers to Marshall Gud aka Jim Waugh and his "do right" exploits of the very late 1970's and early 1980's.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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I only got to place one Bandito hanger on an obscure route at Windy Point in Tucson. It says "Bad Bolt!"
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 29, 2010 - 09:52pm PT
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And you need that Bolt...Bad!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Dec 29, 2010 - 10:56pm PT
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I have been on the mission to replace bolts here in Alaska and thanks a ton to the ASCA who has helped me get started by providing replacement bolts! Ive gone out about 5 times now and I think the warmest that is had been is about 15 degrees. It was below Zero for one of those replacement efforts but what else am I going to do during the slow season?
I do have few a questions though. What could some drawbacks be to replacing bolts when it is so frigid and obviously everything is frozen?
Here are some old bolt images that my girlfriend took this last summer. What kind of bolts / hangers are these?
Using a crowbar I soon broke and improper use of a caribiner...
What are these? Found a couple of them. They go in almost an inch...
Lots of bolts missing hangers out there...
Were clicked into something here...
This was a bunch of recent junk taken from two climbs. The one one the far right is 3/4" long and the ring bent with just normal pressure.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:32pm PT
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Minerals,
Holy Crap, I remember those aluminum bolts. Always made me think twice.....
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nature
climber
Tuscon Again! India! India! Hawaii! LA?!?!
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Dec 29, 2010 - 11:34pm PT
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rick d, can you direct me to more of the story?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Aluminum hanger and bolt from Lamb Dome, Tuolumne Meadows (1960’s?)
Let us know!