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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Can you add a few bolts to the left of the mid-pitch anchors for the mariachi band?
Personally, I'd rather have a small refrigerator bolted on one side or the other of every belay station.
This will require a bit of thought about power, but I can see at least two in-situ options (bolt either a generator or a propane tank platform beside each fridge). Probably better, though, is to run a conduit from bottom to top of every refrigerator-equipped climb, and run the fridges off the YV electrical grid. You'd have to anchor the conduit every fifty feet or so, but that could actually work out well, because the conduit anchor bolts could also be used to support more ashtrays.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Maybe Sloan is right? Is there really no one in the valley that will remove his bolting f*#k ups?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Woot and shoot rhyme. Any 4 year old knows that.
Stiletto throat rhymes with retro bolt.
Disclaimer; Shoot as in the rapids, and I use my stiletto to shave throat hairs below my beard. Think happy creative thoughts.
;)
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bethic dweller
climber
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Hey Erik,
I look forward reading the first "chapter" of your book. The part where you discuss the getting there, climate, geology, history, ethics, etc.
Specifically the history and ethics. The first hopefully will be at least a whole chapter. The second can be summed up in one short paragraph. I have looked at several of my favorite local areas (far from Yosemite and not quite as famous) and this one puts it short and easy to understand.
"(Insert area) with decades of history, follows what has become the North American Standard Ethic. Tread lightly. Don't bolt when natural protection is available. Don't bolt anywhere near a crack. Be modest in the use of bolts and make them camouflaged...Retobolting refers to the addition of bolts to an established line. Re-bolting refers to the one-to-one replacement of fixed gear that has become unsafe. Don't retrobolt other people's routes. Re-bolt only when the condition of the original equipment warrants it. When considering modifications to an established route, do everything possible to maintain the original character and integrity."
Robert B. Kelman.
I have to assume he wrote that because he is the author of this book. The place is mostly one pitch and most top out and then you have to wonder around a little to figure out how to get down. Part of the fun. Especially in a hail storm! Ha Ha! That's the magic of climbing!
I cant give you permission to copy and paste this simple, easy to understand paragraph because its quoted from someone else. But if you take a moment, just enough time to drill another anchor, your ethics section can be just as short, clear, and understandable as his.
By the way I will NOT be purchasing or encouraging anything from you.
Woot! Woot!
Dan Steever
Ha! I spelled the username wrong. No matter I wanted to throw in my 2 cents Erik. Fix it!
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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will the real "yosemite locals" please show up and kick sloans ass......thankyou
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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kick sloans ass
The idea of a bunch of malnourished scraggly thin rock climbers attempting to throw punches for the first time that year because of rock climbing drama sounds amazing to me. Let me know when this goes down, I'd like to be front and center for the sh#t show as non-fighters attempt to fight. Likely the winner will be the concrete, doling out several TBI's due to shitty footwork and a high center of mass.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Quit fu cking talking about it and chop the Wootards bolts already
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back.
His first post...
Perhaps his guide is at the presses and the topo shows a midway anchor and recommends it for practice aid ;)
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Heyzeus
climber
Hollywood,Ca
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Bad Acronym- very, very funny, thanks for the belly laughs, that was hilarious.
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gumbyclimber
climber
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How weird that there is such a clear "consensus" in the Valley that is the absolute opposite of the consensus here. Maybe it is as Mark Hudon said and ST is a joke in the Valley. I guess we ought to consider the collection of clowns who post their opposition here: Duece, Hartouni, Crouch, Braun, etc. Oh, wait a minute, those are actually level headed, experienced, and respectable individuals.
Last time I saw Erik was about 10 years ago and I hadn't seen him in 8-10. I came walking out of the trees toward the Zodiac and there he was - rearranging the talus into a patio. I told him that he was doing a really nice job but that it was a terrible and stupid idea that looked a lot like major impact and was inevitably going to lead to more LEO activity at the base. It led to a tense moment and I left.
Pull your head out, Erik. You're acting like a total jackass.
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Bad Acronym
climber
Little Death Hollow
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Hey Gang, it's your bud, Erik Sloan! Truly stoked to read all the good tidings and attaboys.
It's been a busy day! The new bolts I added to BOR have caused a lot of unforeseen problems. No, not with the bolts themselves; everyone I've talked to is super psyched about the mid-pitch anchor, mariachi band and generally festive vibe. No, the problems started when Ernesto took a factor 2 fall onto the band while tending the sopapilla fryer I hauled up there. I had to jug 40 feet of hot mess to push his hernia back in. Then Pilar prods the band into some ill-advised narco-corrido territory and before I know it, the bullets are flying, blood is flowing and the stoke is seriously waning. By the way, was that you with the uzi, Jenkins? Haha, I kid the guy, I know his real name, it's Franken or something.
Anyway, the party was WAY over, everyone bailed on me and I had to spend the rest of the afternoon cleaning viscera, giblets and hard candies out of the finger crack. F*#k me if there weren't like a thousand dismembered pinatas at the base, too. People, please, LEAVE NO TRACE: pack out your pinatas, woot! Also, before I left, I had to bolt someone's liver to the tree so it doesn't roll down and slap some unsuspecting aid climber in the face, woot!
Now I'm back at my bivy putting doll clothes on these marmots I shot and stuffed last spring. Hoping to sell these gems roadside to fund my Yosemite Select guidebook, woot! I've got this one, it's dressed like a ski bum with goggles on its hea - hea - hea....
Heayugh... Heyurl... Hoh... Uh...
Oh man.
I feel terrible.
SO unstoked.
I ran out of lithium like four days ago and JLP promised he'd refill my scrip. Where is he? Uh, feel awful.
What?
Oh. Oh-oh-oh no. Oh my god, what have I done? What, was it really me? No. No. NO, I don't want to see anymore!!! Franken, give me your gun so I can eat it!!! I want to end it all!
...Wait. Sh-sh-shhh. Headlights approaching. It's a car. Someone's getting out. Footsteps... Hey, hey, hey, wait, it's JLP!!!
Gimme those pills you stupid troll! Argh!
[gulp, gulp, gulp, gulp]
...Hey Gang, it's your bud, Erik Sloan! 'Stoked we can have conversations like this on the internet, right? I'm super busy dressing marmots right now and will try to address your ongoing concerns/praise later.
Woot!
Erik Sloan
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Now I'm back at my bivy putting doll clothes on these marmots I shot and stuffed last spring. Hoping to sell these gems roadside to fund my Yosemite Select guidebook, woot! I've got this one, it's dressed like a ski bum with goggles in its hea - hea - hea....
I knew it!
Nobody pulls sh#t like this off by himself. There had to be some eminence grise pulling this dude's strings from behind the curtain. Charging his powerdrill. Supplying the meds. Fluffing. Running the defense ops.
And the marmots are a dead giveaway.
You can dress up a dead marmot -- or a dead whatever -- in doll clothes for a few days, but after that... Well the cat's out of the f*#king bag now, isn't it?
Dead marmots in the dollhouse for eight months? Not f*#king likely... unless...
Yeah, that's right. Who do we all know who takes dead animals and turns them into something other than a decomposing pile of guts? Huh? Huh? Who is it that can "preserve" your dead furry trophy? And who hates Supertopo and everyone on it, to boot?
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Nov 7, 2015 - 07:32am PT
It's not just the old guard that is into it, though, the newer climbers like ...the YOSAR crew
EriK
I'm sorry but you just can't say this.
The YOSAR crew consists of so many people including the Valley District Ranger, and all Yosemite Nat. Park LEO.
YOSAR is a branch of NPS Law enforcement protection division.
And "THEY" all all agree with you?
Well Werner, apparently he CAN say that, unless you and a YOSAR plan to stop him? Woot for the pussification of YOSAR, AND the retrobolting which no one seems to have the balls to chop.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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"Quit fu cking talking about it and chop the Wootards bolts already"
+1
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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nothing relevant to add.just a nauseated old fuq. it was a weally good woot.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Bad acronym, some of the best I've ever read on here. Keep up the good work!
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WBraun
climber
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Erik .... Oh Erik
Anchors are replaced at the end of the pitch not half way up the pitch.
All the rest of your above rant is an insane excuse for what you've done and are thinking of continuing doing.
Please try and focus ONE thing at a time ....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I met Eric (with a C) at Facelift. VERY nice guy, VERY hard working, VERY busy working on the guide constantly. He was open minded about the communities ideas for what they would like to see and is doing his damndest (along with Ed, Clint et al) to make sure that happens - that doesn't mean appealing to the lowest common denominator and dumbing down the park, but figuring out how much info to keep or to leave up to the climbers to explore, how to arrange, many factors NOT pertaining to convenience anchors and accouterments to stoke the newbies (who hopefully grow out of that phase, quickly).
One last thing, Eric straight out REFUSED to talk sh!t about Nanook at facelift. Perhaps he's grown more frustrated with the recent bullsh#t, but despite my prodding Eric kept his opinions his own on the guy. While drinking by a campfire. That's a guy who really doesn't want this shitty drama.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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"If you're going to be crazy, you have to get paid for it or else you're going to be locked up."
-Hunter S. Thompson
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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One last thing, Eric straight out REFUSED to talk sh!t about Nanook at facelift.
that changed at kev and Julies wedding party a few weeks back in Monterey.
Woot!
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