WORLD'S GREATEST BOLT HANGER THREAD

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karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2015 - 03:07pm PT

Roots - So the Ed Cooper bolt hanger is probably a modified Gerry horizontal piton, but the eye is on the left side. So proof is still needed with that hanger since the horizontal piton shown in the Gerry catalog the eye is on the right side.

Ney Grant

Trad climber

Pollock Pines

Sep 15, 2015 - 05:30pm PT

Thank you Marty - Ney

Banquo

climber

Amerricka

Sep 15, 2015 - 06:11pm PT

Send these guys an email, I bet they can get you an airplane safety clip.

http://www.boneyard2u.com/

ionlyski

Trad climber

Kalispell, Montana

Sep 15, 2015 - 09:56pm PT

ionlyski - Yes I added the info to the hanger that it may be from Rupert Kammerlander, but I am not 100% sure that the hanger is his. Do you or anybody have a RK hanger which can be compared to the RK hanger from the Nose route? Thanks for the info on Rupert!

Do you have this hanger or one that looks like this?

Arne

edit-not my photo-taken from RK thread

Roots

Mountain climber

Tustin, CA

Sep 16, 2015 - 08:46am PT

Here's one I have not seen posted yet:

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2015 - 05:48pm PT

Roots - That looks like a Doug Black hanger from Arizona mid 1960s

ionlyski - No I don’t have that shape Rupert Kammerlander hanger. It is beautiful! But here is a photo of the RK hanger from the Nose route. The stamps sure look the same. Even the letters ‘R’ and ‘K’ on both have a slightly longer right leg, which may suggest that he was right handed and he was striking the stamp more at the 4 o'clock position over hitting it dead center. So it looks like Rupert climbed the Nose and left his mark on it! Good job guys for unlocking the RK mystery! I am still not 100% positive it is for sure, but Rupert for now holds the best match.

Roots

Mountain climber

Tustin, CA

Sep 21, 2015 - 08:06am PT

Thanks Marty - edited my pic caption to correct his first name.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2015 - 08:15am PT

11worth

Trad climber

Leavenworth & Greenwater WA

Sep 24, 2015 - 12:48pm PT

These bolts and hangers are from Nirvana Ridge on Grand Central Tower at Peshastin Pinnacles near Leavenworth WA.
The route was put up by Fred Becky, Don Gordon and Frank Tarver in 1959.
I replaced bolts and hangers in 1990.
The rock is sandstone. (mostly short 1/4 inch split shank bolts!)
I wonder if Frank Tarver made the homemade hangers in his shop. He is well known for his stove leg pitons used on El Cap.

Roots

Mountain climber

Tustin, CA

Sep 24, 2015 - 02:08pm PT

Nice collection!

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber

Pomfert VT

Sep 24, 2015 - 07:39pm PT

Clipped this beauty llast sat ;)

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2015 - 06:21pm PT

KONG - BONAITI

Mr. Giuseppe Bonaiti started creating products in 1830 around Lecco Italy. In 1977 the Bonaiti family reorganized and created the company KONG, a large scale factory to create products. In 1981 KONG started production.

KONG-Bonaiti Wide Eye hangers are created in Stainless Steel, Galvanized Steel, and Aluminum which is available in colors. Bolt hole sizes are available in 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm. In the late 1990s KONG created a new hanger and also named it the Wide Eye hanger. To get rid of the confusion KONG renamed the first Wide Eye hanger version the “Hanger.” The 2000 KONG catalog shows all bolts and hangers available in Stainless Steel only. It lists the KONG hanger in 8mm and 10mm sizes only. The KONG Wide Eye hanger is available only in 12mm.

In the early 2000s KONG developed a new set of key hole hangers and bolts for the key hole hangers named Fix Soleymieux and Wide Soleymieux. I played around with this set at one of the Outdoor Retailers shows but was never able to obtain them for the museum. I see now that the Hiking Shack may be able to get me the set. Sweet! KONG also creates Glue-in bolts.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2015 - 03:43pm PT

Singing Rock

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2015 - 06:24am PT

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2015 - 08:38pm PT

Seattle Manufacturing Corporation - SMC

— from the SMC website: “Founded in 1967 as Seattle Manufacturing Corporation. SMC is a mountaineering and technical rescue brand that produces elite equipment. SMC designs and manufactures sport and rescue hardware to aircraft industry standards while remaining true to a heritage of excellence and innovation. Seasoned climbers and rescue personnel depend on the reliable performance of SMC gear in the most critical situations and demanding conditions around the globe.

……………………………………

Thanks to Scott Newell for filling in a few SMC catalogs I was missing, I can now show a more complete story for the SMC hangers. For many years the old version SMC hanger has been haunted with fatigue crack stories. Many climbers believe that a batch of the hangers were over tempered or something causing the hangers to be brittle and to crack easily. I am sure SMC tested the crap out of these hangers and found them to be fine. It was the way the hangers were installed by climbers that SMC claims, made the cracks.

The SMC Universal Hanger was first introduced in 1972. It is a nickel chrome-molly die-cut hanger with a chem-nickel finish. The SMC hanger shape looks similar to a Dolt hanger, but has a few differences. Available in two sizes 1/4 and 3/8.

In the 1978 SMC catalog, SMC mentions that people have come forward informing SMC about the hanger cracking issue. Looking at the SMC catalogs It appears that SMC decided to stand behind their tested hanger to fight the cracking issue, as they continued on selling the same nickel chrome-molly hangers.

I don’t have the 1981 SMC catalog but I do have the 1981 price lists. The cost for hangers is heavily increased in December 1981, which may show when SMC went from nickel chrome-molly hangers to stainless steel hangers.
— 1981 SMC January price list 1/4” hangers - $1.10 retail
— 1981 SMC December price list 1/4” hangers - $1.60 retail
The 1982 SMC catalog shows the new stainless steel SMC hangers. Hangers available in 1/4 and 3/8. In 1988 SMC adds the stainless steel 5/16 hanger.

I am amazed that SMC fought the cracking issue for 4 years instead of going to stainless steel back in 1978. The newer 1982 stainless steel SMC hangers are exquisite. At that time, the best hangers available in America. Eventually Metolius and Petzl take over, then FIXE arrives. The 1994 SMC catalog and price list does not include bolt hangers. I am not sure what year SMC discontinued the hangers.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2015 - 11:06am PT

Roots - What I like about your Doug Black hanger is that it looks like it has a 1/4" bolt hole. All of the Doug Black hangers I replaced in the AZ mountains have 3/8 bolt holes.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2015 - 12:08pm PT

Mad Rock

Mad Rock began in 2002 as a small climber owned and operated company that made innovative highly technical and affordable rock climbing shoes. The company is located in California but manufacturing is in Asia.