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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 12, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
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Here is a pic before we started up that shows the nature of the crack better. This is a five star route.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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**Yeaowwwzzaa! Dreamliner looks incredible guys! Nice work, holy smokes. Cant wait to discover this place for myself.
**
Here is some more Purgatory Peak stuff...
A better pic of the corner (although the first pic better captures the angle of it, which was near vertical and right leaning, and very very awesome.)
Here is a good look at the upper pitch (which we didn't do for time reasons but looks good and probably easier as well.)
Here is a photo of a corner we have our sights on for next time.
Here is a route we wanted to jump on right when we got up there, and in hindsight, we should have, as the ledge it ends up on would have set us up to walk to the route we did climb...
without topo marks:
And here is a cool sunset from when we got back to the truck just for good measure.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 08:38am PT
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I like the shot with Winnemucca Lake in the background. And the sunset. Never had anyone who was interested in making that hike up! Maybe one of these days...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:54am PT
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I second the motion on that pic with Lake Winnemucca as a back drop. Looks incredible. The approach keeps me and the other riff raff away, though.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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Si, si, this is my favorite pic as well.
That route in the pic really looks like it could be classic as well.
As far as the approach, yes it is long. But it was so much more straight forward and user friendly than we thought.
If you do go for it, definitely start at the purgatory boulders high parking area, and sort of side hill your way trending right up the thing. Taking the road that starts you a little closer to the peak and sets you up to hike the main draw/gully looks to be about as horrendous as can be. The side hill option puts you in the best gully/draw, with the least dramatic elevation gain (no scrambling, just hiking) the whole way. Took us two hours, and we were in no hurry.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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Thanks for the info Tyson. You should get with John and/or Laine and do some more new routes on that crag we climbed on last weekend. This crag is begging for many more new lines beyond my meager abilities.The 20 minute relatively level approach doesn't give the great cardio workout but allows for more climbing per day trip.
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ElbowHornet
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2015 - 09:55am PT
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Hey there say Gnome...
Please post up more pictures of the same three blocks of choss. What's your mission, to infect every thread with rambles and identical shots of the nobody-cares-crag???
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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Post up your favorite obscure rock and have an excellent day!
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ElbowHornet
Boulder climber
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Mar 13, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Hey thurr say Rong ANderson
you should make a new guide called driving wrong way on freeway like an a**hole and bragging about it
moron
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 11:49am PT
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Nobody has enough time left on earth to put up with senseless b.s. like you just posted above elbowhead. Stuff it up your azz and please cork it.
No paper guide Ron. This is it, a self help guide written in electrons only. For now, anyone interested in venturing off the beaten path for quality new rock climbs in the remote locations we're highlighting need only to privately ask. It would be nice for FA'ists to chronicle their adventures in the NV wilds here and in other related threads for eventual repeat climbing enjoyment to those not quite so fond of the unknown
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 12:12pm PT
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jonnyrig
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
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Yes indeed. Could be climbzheimers too. They're related.
Post that pic! As to location? It'll come to you in the middle of the night, like warm bowl of water and one of those realistic dreams where you're peeing in the closet...
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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Hey Rick you guys heading back out this Sunday?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 13, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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Quite possibly on Sunday Laine. Want to go new routing?
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:08am PT
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Now I know you fellas learned to climb in the Cretaceous and that these are 5.3d type routes, but is that seriously a hip belay? Too funny!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:26am PT
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Yeah Cowboy, self taught in the cretaceous at that. Been getting so much shet over my bomber (held many a long fall) hip belay that I broke down and bought a ATC Guide device. It still takes a little faith on my part to trust anothers life to a little chunk of metal.
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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Awesome Rick! Do you dulfersitz your raps? Or do you munter?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mar 14, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Caribiner brake. I quickly advanced from the dulferschitz after the first painful experience some 45+ years ago. On another note, nobody has evet been hurt while climbing with me. I take others safety seriously. How about you Cowboy?
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