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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Wow!!!
Thanks to both of you guys!
Friend, how did you ever, ever remember where that Smoke Detectors picture was, much less that it had been published? Oh yeah. I'm pretty sure that's the sketchy one lurking back under the pinnacle. What a hoot! Later to become Hit It, Ethel.
Etude is a sweet one isn't it?
Yes, perfection. Best rock at Suicide I'm thinking.
Edit: classic JL hip belay no doubt. "Ho man, go for it. I'll just pinch the rope. You aren't going anywhere." Can't believe there isn't a huge loop of slack in there as well - for motivation.
Edit2: Haha, the Guillotine. There was time to do what during the infamous fall?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Yeap, my guess as well. And given that KP is involved one would have to assume the whole operation was a bit on the, well, suspect side. Lasso the knob. Right, where do I get in line?
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Friend
climber
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It’s not the kind of photo one forgets!
Funny coincidence – I just recently scored some classic old mags from Sketchy himself. Thanks again Randy.
And re. the Guillotine... I wasn’t there but I have heard a first-hand account of the infamous Acapulco Bill whipping off that thing. Post up DE.. you always know how to spin a great yarn.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Another infamous fall, off of a route you don't want to fall on. The story goes that Bill Antel would at times pick the worst possible place, the one place you didn't want to pitch from on a route, and fall from there. So, over the edge of Hair Lip he went. Bet that was fun.
Just talked to KP, he claims he'll post something in a day or two - I wouldn't hold my breath while waiting though. He claims the second rope was in case the knob broke off, because it appeared the knob had a hairline fracture running around it. If you're familiar with that spot you'll know there is a big chasm (25/30' ?) right under it, a chimney type thing that narrows as it goes down. So in case the knob blew and you went into the "basement" the second rope might save you. Of course, it might not as well. As a backup plan in case someone went into the basement and got wedged they brought JL along, so he could yard the poor guy out. A bolt was added when it became Hit It, Ethel so it's just history at this point. Wish I hadn't missed out on that gig, sounds like it was a party.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Of course, you'd never forget it if you were around when Bill Antel was following Insomnia!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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OK Robs, I sense there is a story behind that...
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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We found this route while replacing the bolts on Caliente. We had both looked over and saw the perfect edges going up the headwall and were back the next weekend to begin working on it. 2 of the headwall bolts were drilled off hooks. Then we did what we had never done before-damn this is going to be hard to write-hangdogging! Not sure who got the first shot at the crux, I think it was me and when I fell off I began barking like a dog and Henny held the rope tight instead of lowering as was customary back in those days. This was the start of several days of aerial bouldering until Henny finally pulled the crux and grabbed the "Perfect Pair". Two small knobs that hung like breasts, one even displaying a nipple like feature above the wanton men lusting from below!! Since we had never done such a corrupt and inhumane thing as hang dogging before, we decided to name the route Someone You're Not. I remember having to avoid looking in mirrors for several days afterwards as the shame of it all was pretty overwhelming!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Wow, fantastic stuff guys. Keep it coming.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Well, the big boys finally woke up and posted some pictures!
Get that lock E, but be careful, ..., 'cause it's pipe!
Ho momma, fire another burger on the Presto Maker.
Yeap, I went down Caliente first on the bolt replacement effort. On the way down I accidently saw the line of holds off right, but didn't say a word. As soon as KP finished coming down he walked over and simply said, "Did you see that?" My answer was just as simple, "Yes." Nothing more was said. Next weekend, there we were. What a score.
It may not look like it, but the headwall is actually quite steep. Drilling the first bolt on it turned epic since the first decent edge is so high there was nothing to hang onto while drilling. After running easy ground to get there I pulled up the Bosch and tried to drill. The problem was, I had nothing to pull in on to put enough pressure on the drill to get the hammer to engage, plus the length of drill/bit made me lean too far back. I tried hooking a heel among other things, but always felt like I was going to pitch backwards once the drill was up. Every time I would pull the trigger the drill would skate, or bounce, across the face - making me feel even more like I was going over backwards. I kept looking down into Paisano Chimney thinking, "guaranteed, that's where I'm going to end up." Of course KP had no sympathy for my whining. I finally gave up and drilled the bolt just left of me in that last picture - just so I could drill the first headwall bolt high without dying. Stupid bolt, only there because the FA party was whimpy and needed it to drill the first true headwall bolt.
At least when the drill was skating I didn't just throw it off (attached to the trail line of course) like KP did at Tahquitz. But that's a different story.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Another infamous fall, off of a route you don't want to fall on. The story goes that Bill Antel would at times pick the worst possible place, the one place you didn't want to pitch from on a route, and fall from there. So, over the edge of Hair Lip he went. Bet that was fun. I pitched over the lip on Hair Lip back in the day. Reachy move between where that fixed pin was getting to the bolt, at least for me it was and I pitched off backward. Flipped around in midair and landed on my back on the slab underneath and slid a good ten feet since my partner had a slack belay. Of course I was shirtless. The only thing going for me was that I was 16 or 17 at the time, so healed up quickly. If that happened now, I'd probably shatter into a thousand pieces.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dimes, Henny, Epi...and all.
Thanks for digging up the goods.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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I think the photo of Ivan up thread might be my favorite suicide photo. Great stories and photos all around! Sweet shot of Arcy Farcy, KP. And Hades...can slab get better than that?? Would love to see more photos even if they are of Darrell...
Jeez, I had read about lassoing the knob and after seeing the photo, it seems amazing that KP lived to climb another day
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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KP, I feel for ya bro. Nothing like hangdogging to bring a man down.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Wow, a lot of good action on this thread since I left for Barstow! I have more but it will have to wait till we get back from Yellowstone in a week or so.
Will post up the Acapulco B. story.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Gear of the day,
EB's and Schlitz, usually malt.
Paisano Jam Crack
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!