Craziness on Everest Southside Continues

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Messages 141 - 160 of total 235 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 26, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
Get some sponsors to pay for a trip to the back side

There are plenty of sponsors willing to pay for a trip to the dark side.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2014 - 12:24am PT
It's the highest peak but it just isn't elegant nor does it present the classic difficult lines available on a number of other peaks. Given that....it will always be a trophy "peak bag" rather than something that attracts good climbers because of a particular line.
All the lay public cares is that you "climbed" the peak....the particular route is irrelevant, and climbing Everest plays to the general public NOT to the real climbing community.
caysedave

Trad climber
CA
May 27, 2014 - 02:07am PT
chopper solo?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 27, 2014 - 08:43am PT
Jim
I'm sure you would have a different opinion
About elegance if you had climbed on any 8000 meter
Mountain?
Please Tell me I'm mistaken .
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
May 27, 2014 - 09:10am PT
All the lay public cares is that you "climbed" the peak....the particular route is irrelevant, and climbing Everest plays to the general public NOT to the real climbing community.

The unattainable has become a destination.

John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
May 27, 2014 - 09:16am PT
I think the speed climbing dimension there, has yet to be fully explored.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 27, 2014 - 09:17am PT
Yes but as climbers why do we give a
Sh'it about lay opinion ? Doesn't the general public think rock climbing is crazy ?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2014 - 09:31am PT
Yes Stewart Johnson you are mistaken. No, I haven't climbed any 8000 meter peaks. I have been invited to expeditions to Everest twice and also to other 8000 meter peaks and declined because kicking steps in snow doesn't appeal to me.
I don't think you are in a place to question my alpine bonafides. I have climbed on every continent and some of my climbs have been on some the world's most difficult peaks. I have climbed technical terrain (not moderate snow slopes) at 7000 meters.
Regardless of what I have done or haven't done....commenting constructively on the situation on Everest is not limited to people who have been on the peak.
Regarding elegance....Torre Egger, Latok 1, Poincenot, The Moose's Tooth, Mt. Hunter, Cerro Torre, Fitzroy etc. are elegant and I have intimate experience with them but ANYONE who merely saw a picture of them would agree that they are beautiful, impressive, elegant peaks.
The same cannot be said about Everest, it is big, and to some imposing, but i doubt many would call it elegant.

edit: Stewart baby, "climbers," i use that term advisedly, are on Everest PRECISELY because they care about lay opinion. They certainly don't delude themselves that real climbers will applaud their efforts.
steve shea

climber
May 27, 2014 - 10:07am PT
The viewing public is jaded. Now to get attention, what drives the sponsors, one must come up with another twist on the Big E. A wingsuit descent? Ho hum. But it is interesting that the Chinese woman did do it, by eliminating a third of the route, in somewhat good style though not intentional. Then she cries foul because of the lack of route preparation. I don't think the public cares or knows she only did part of the climb.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 27, 2014 - 10:28am PT
Lay opinion didn't factor whilst opening
The Neverest buttress with Robert Anderson, Stephen Venables
Ed Webster and myself in 1988
Quite a while back Jim.
And I'm familiar with your exceptional
Resume.
I was just wondering if you had been on an 8000
Meter hill. And you say no baby I haven't .
So I'm not mistaken you havent.
I understand your reluctance to wallow,
I think all high altitude climbers feel the same.
And your opinion is important to climbers!
Myself included.
To belittle fellow climbers and Everest
makes you seem like
A Dick
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2014 - 10:38am PT
Dick to Stewart....i'm calling it as i see it. Everest has an exceptional history from Mallory onto Messner but those days are over. It has devolved into a line of people, fully sherpa supported, with fixed lines to the summit. Sorry Stewart, that may be your bag, but I don't consider that climbing.
By the way....calling me a dick is a little outside the realm of intelligent discourse....is it not?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2014 - 10:56am PT
Well Randisi, without ego and a sense of "I"....where would we all be?
Interestingly, this thread is about Everest. I, obviously, have some opinions about the current state of affairs there. Like all internet discourse the discussion morphs, devolves from the original intent and becomes ad hominen. I think that i have said my piece, which is my opinion only,.....attack my arguments, different views are out there.
Have a climbing date in the Black, no step setting there....in fact, it looks like it might be too hot.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
May 27, 2014 - 11:08am PT
What happens when I's meet?

Then you sometimes have a situation which is referred to as "not seeing eye-to-eye".
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 27, 2014 - 11:12am PT
yes Jim perhaps dick wasnt nice.
calling me baby, wasnt nice either.

Climbing Everest nowadays it would be hard to find solitude.

Even if a difficult route were accomplished the descent would involve
stepping over all those non talented individuals who dont belong there.

I do remember meeting you in 1998 at the Talkeetna Ranger station,
you pretty much treated me like a punk that didnt know sh#t.
And my high esteem for you and your accomplishments sadly faded.

Have a great climb.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 27, 2014 - 11:33am PT
I'm sorry about Talkeetna Stewart....it's definetly not my usual style. I think a lot of visiting climbers to Camp 4 in the 70's can attest that i was one of the more welcoming locals.
Really have to take off....have fun everyone, and, for god sakes, straighten out the Everest situation!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
May 27, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
thanks Dingus
We were the smallest team to climb a
New route on Everest besides Messner
Oh and Jim ,is the worlds highest
Tyrolian traverse elegant or not?
Scott Patterson

Mountain climber
Craig
May 27, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
Question concerning this discussion and others.

If you have no interest in Everest, then why do you care how it is climbed? Personally I don't care how anyone else climbs a mountain as long as they leave it clean. That is the main issue I have with any styles of climbing.

Other than that, I don't care how you climb a mountain because it doesn't effect me.

Shouldn't people only climb to challenge themselves anyway? I like to share experiences with friends (even non-climbing ones), but I don't think I'd climb anything just to impress them.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 27, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
Scott, you would care if a helo whizzed by you all day ferrying loads for
some rich phuk, wouldn't you? It irks me to no end just knowing some
azzholes are doing that. I bet they didn't use that helo to bring any
garbage down from the mountain either.
Scott Patterson

Mountain climber
Craig
May 27, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
Scott, you would care if a helo whizzed by you all day ferrying loads for
some rich phuk, wouldn't you?

Sure I would care, but only if it happened on a mountain I wanted to climb. Funny thing is, I've climbed 1798 mountains across six continents and the situation hasn't ever come up yet.

Besides, even if I did want to climb Everest, and even if I wanted to do the standard route as a "real climber", couldn't I just do the peak in a different season other than a few weeks in May?
stinkyclimber

Mountain climber
Vancouver, BC
May 27, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
Maybe I am missing something, but Venable's account of the 1988 Kangshung route doesn't mention a Stewart Johnson. It sort of sounded like you were intimating you were on the team, but again, could be missing something.

http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1989-90_files/AJ%201989%201-8%20Venables%20Kangshung.pdf
Messages 141 - 160 of total 235 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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