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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:13pm PT
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Stretch, rolling and a series of light dumb bell shoulder exercises, oh and some hammy thrashing for knee goodness.
Ryan, thanks for the lowerback vid. What is the Honnold core sh!taqua?
I need to drop 10-15lbs as well; I would be doing the nordy thing but my durned Morton'sNeuroma started messing with me again earlier this week. Cardio gets tough when you can't pound your feet!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
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Pinching the bottom of the Grotto ladder Rail with sandpaper applied to the sides and holding onto it with one hand is a feat of superior strength. Developing a less than super difficult Pinchable Hold for the Grotto Ceiling Simulator has been an ongoing conceptual task for me. I am on about tenth prototype. One form of the pinchable holds used in gym climbing are often inverted "V"'s.
The inverted "V" pinch holds are unsatisfactory for use on the Grotto Simulator as a pinch hold because the climber can load the back-cling finger side with his legs pushing against the rungs hard enough to need no thumb pressure to hang from the hold.
Here are some of design goals:
1. The hold must require use of the thumb.
2. Ideally leg force would not lessen the thumb force needed in pinching or frictioning to hold the hold hard enough to hang one handed.
3. The hold has to fit and work on the hold spaces left on the ladder. For the hand to fit the remaining space the holds would have to hang down from the last available set of bolt holes/T-nuts.
4. A suspended hold that could rotate would prevent leg force on the rungs from lessening the thumb pressure need to stick to the hold.
Here it is the first working variety:
Scarpelli says this gripping would be a good hammer hanging training routine if we were ice climbers.
The second prototype being test is:
In fact hanging on to it is harder than hanging onto this:
So to make the PVC less slippery we added 4 sq inches of stair tread gripper surface to each hold. With this little area of mineral grip surface, hanging from the PVC is still more difficult than hanging from the rope shown above.
The ladder hold space is now saturated with holds and there is no space left for easy bolt on holds. But where is the mother of invention?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2014 - 12:44am PT
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Weights yesterday, top ropes today!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 14, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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trained twice today. #228 express and the #198 local.
woo woo.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:13am PT
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What the hell is HonnoldCore?
I was training today trying to fit this on my throat...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:15am PT
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Gym twice this week.
Climb this weekend
Have fun
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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You guys are old! Deal with it!
This f*#king supplement crap is not good for you. Don't listen to the herbalists and all that bs.
Whatever, do what you will. I ran around the yard with my 5 yr old. More like fast-walking.
Just eat well and keep moving. 'Nuff said...
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:45am PT
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yeah, what is Honnold core?
I have not worked out in 2 weeks. fail.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:45am PT
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I have not worked out in 2 weeks. fail.
Holy shite.. Those gr8 cover girl selfies must be distracting your workout efforts?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:47am PT
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Core?
How much Core does a guy need??
How much Core does a climber need??
Isn't core that part of the apple that ... Pigs eat?
Would backups with hips at the edge of a table while holding a 25 lb weight on your head count?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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The Ryan D post of a workout?
Maybe I have become an old man, but I would much rather have skate skied for 11:59 min up a steep hill than bother watching/doing those cage routines. The force from poling action is transmitted through the body core to a ski or two.
Back therapy or a workout?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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Weights and climbing back to the grind!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
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looks easy from here,
My fist is a hair smaller that Scarpelli's. I think he calls his 4 1/4". But his hands have more volume than mine and his fingers are sausages.
The rope is [just guessing] < 2" . Material?? The company that sold it to me taped the ends, so maybe it is not a melt-able synthetic like nylon or Dacron.
It mostly hangs out of use as it too close to the shelving for an impediment less free climb. Are you looking to get one?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Thanks. And yeah, I'm looking at getting one. I'm moving into a house with a real yard and I want to hang a thick rope for climbing. There's a very convenient tree limb a shade over 25' up, so I figure I'll need about 30'. I've been vacillating between 1-1/2" and 2" (I'm leaning towards 1-1/2"), and between manila or some other material (though don't have any idea what that other material would be).
At the risk of a minor thread hijack, any advice would be very welcome.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 14, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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WML, glad u liked the foundation workout.
I agree Dingus, watching vids etc is boring as sh#t but for me all training is boring as sh#t. Doing a large variety of physical challenging things besides climbing for me keeps it interesting and gives me good results personally. Besides hangboard most of my training is either working opposing muscles (yoga, foundation), or cardio (trail running) as I spend a lot of time climbing as it is. If I'm forced into plastic land it's usually about power endurance.
Oh, & u should try that workout before comparing it to poling up a hill, it's as much like skate skiing as skate skiing is like sitting on a bench & giving your 2 training buddies tug jobs at the same time- exactly the same but totally different. The whole idea is to lengthen the spine & strengthen the small stabilizers in your legs, great stuff for climbers, road bikers & other active types prone to Quasimodo type posture.
I wouldn't call it therapy but it could be classified as preventative maintenance. I do it once a week.
I like this thread, it's motivating to see what works for others & what others are doing to stay honed. Good work everyone.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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looks easy from here,
this rope is >= 16 ft, and < 18' with a braided/spliced loop for the anchor end. It was sold at that fixed length from Metolius? The diameter made for a secure feeling grip and it was not very slippery. It does look like a natural fiber. Sorry for the lack of definiteness but the rope is not near this web station.
30' long: fall? Norwegian, an ST member here, has posted a picture of himself climbing a longer rope than mine. He may have more ideas.
If you contact him you may get your reply in some far out poetry.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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Ryan D,
thanks for the blip, I will think this order:
Therapeutic exercises <<< preventive exercises >>> work out exercises
I have emboldened the word work for meaning a force against a resistance and some displacement === endurance or power training for you muscles.
Therapeutic == carefully monitored preventive exercise or even less intense than preventive.
preventive == maintenance?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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If you want to train pinch strength, this is far and away the best thing I've used, eliminates the ability to cheat via compression from the pecs and is in a perfect neutral wrist alignment. The Trango Rock Prodigy hangboard (second pic is a closeup of the pinch, allows for 2 widths about 5" and about 2", could also use the really thin one but it's stupidly hard):
I've got very good pinch strength, and can only use about BW+20 for repeaters on the 2", so most are going to need to remove weight via a pulley system to train on it.
Today is rest.
Last night was maintenance...rice bucket sequence 9 movement @ 1:00 ea, pronators 3sets x 15 reps @ 15lb, scapular retrations with triple therabands, front lever holds, goblet squat+KB swing supersets @ 23kg, 10+15 rep.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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Norwegian's post earlier in this thread was what inspired me. IIRC he said his was 2", but I feel like that large of a diameter will blow out my grip before it works anything else. Thus my inclination to 1-1/2": thick enough to work my grip, but thin enough to pull on it long enough to get the lats and bis and core going. 25' is a big drop if I blow it, but I'm not too proud to lap it only half way for a while, and I'll be landing on a pretty good cushion of redwood duff if I do have to bail.
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