Tahquitz rescue 5-17-2013

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Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

May 21, 2013 - 12:00am PT

Just now saw this, and felt "there but for fortune go you or I."

Deepest sympathy to you, and to all those who knew and loved Lucas.

MIclimber

climber

Michigan

May 21, 2013 - 11:25am PT

Greg,

Very sorry for your loss and Lucas' family.

But can you please clarify the cause if possible? Was this rap set up error or was this rapping of the end of rope?

You mentioned you tied safety knots after you left the bottom of the rap. If this was rap set error I suppose your safety knot could have popped thru the anchor given the length of fall. Was the rap station rings or quick links? Or maybe what sounds more likely is the safety knot came undone on one side as he was reaching for the flake at the bottom of the rap and then accidentally rapped off the end of the rope. Was the other end of the rope inspected?

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 11:35am PT

But can you please clarify the cause if possible? Was this rap set up error or was this rapping of the end of rope?

The fog is starting to settle, so some things are missing bits and pieces. My original thought was that he had arrived to a bad stance and a rockslide took him, after talking to Clark Jacobs about other particulars (he was long time YOSAR) of how things were found it might be that he clipped in a single strand and the force of him landed dislodged the block, or the rope wrapped around it... my back was turned at the time and I swung my head around left, not to the right, so by the time I saw the sliding rocks and the accident he was starting to slide off the FBT ledge.

You mentioned you tied safety knots after you left the bottom of the rap. If this was rap set error I suppose your safety knot could have popped thru the anchor given the length of fall. Was the rap station rings or quick links?

Clark and I discussed this possibility as well, I tied very small over hands with perhaps ~3" of tail. That of which I am 100% certain (I'm the kind of guy who can remember every peice on every pitch but not the persons name who I'd been dating... some facts are exact, some I have to be careful not to confuse what I wasn't interpreting). They are rap 'rings', the kind where it is a chain link that is opened and stamped almost shut (basically the size of a chain-link). The knots I tied would easily roll or be pulled through the links, I did not tie them large enough to stop a rap only to give him slack to reach the ledge but a reminder for his hand to hit as he rapped. Because of my location he had visual of me the entire process, but I can't say for certain whether he was watching or not (there is such a nice view up there I can't imagine he wasn't at some point distracted by it).

Or maybe what sounds more likely is the safety knot came undone on one side as he was reaching for the flake at the bottom of the rap and then accidentally rapped off the end of the rope. Was the other end of the rope inspected?

Also a possibility. The other end had no knot, while one was clipped with some length (not sure how much on brake-end) close to the end of the rope. Because it was wrapped around his legs and I didn't want to move him, I didn't get a good idea about how much rope was where.

Thank you for helping me clarify, part of my duty to your partners is to the community. If this knowledge can help in any way I will not hesitate to give it.

Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber

San Diego,CA

May 21, 2013 - 12:58pm PT

G Davis I Just now saw this after retuning from a trip to Nepal yesterday. I can hardly get my head around this. I knew him from the gym and Nomad and he always left such a solid impression of himself. A quiet confidence and a great smile. I will be preying for you and his loved ones.

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

May 21, 2013 - 01:06pm PT

It sounds to me like he slipped on some loose rocks after completing the rappel. I wouldn't try and over analyze it. Accidents happen, it's very sad and I hope you can find peace with it.

Bldrjac

Ice climber

Boulder

May 21, 2013 - 01:26pm PT

Greg,
I don't know you or Lucas, but you are familiar to me through ST. I am soooo terribly sorry for your loss. It's an incredible tragedy to lose Lucas for sure, but you and his loved ones are the ones who have to live with that. While I don't know much, I now know grief, being the widow of Jack Roberts, who died in an ice climbing fall last year. I know it has been very hard on his partner, Jon. I would suggest seeking out others who have lost their climbing partners, and share your story with them, and perhaps gain some insight into how they have coped. It's different for me because I wasn't there when Jack died, so I can't really imagine how painful, difficult, and surreal it must have been/be for you. All I know is that for myself, I try to look for love and beauty all around me each day...I find that there is a lot, and even more now than I ever realized. My heart has grown in a way I wouldn't have guessed. And when the tears come (and they do!) I just allow myself the hurt and pain. Sometimes I even welcome that pain, as it makes me feel closer to him through the loss. If I can help in any way, don't hesitate to reach out. My email is srfrpam@aol.com.....It sounds like you are surrounding yourself with friends and family, which is good. Spend as much time outside as you can. Be kind to yourself............
much love,
Pam

Anastasia

climber

Home

May 21, 2013 - 01:36pm PT

My heart felt condolences. Be strong, it could happen to any one of us at any time.

MIclimber

climber

Michigan

May 21, 2013 - 02:01pm PT

Thanks Greg for the additional details, it is important to get the info out there for others to learn from even though details are painful. I think if it was set up error you would have heard him scream or yell some profanity before the crash you heard. Whether the knot came undone on its own or he had completed the rap and the block just happened to give way at that moment he had started to break it down, it's heartbreaking either way. Again very sorry, and best thoughts with you going forward.

Damn this looks high

Trad climber

Temecula, CA

May 21, 2013 - 03:19pm PT

Passion

It IS NOT that he died doing what he loved
Because he still died.
We are richer for having known him
But all the poorer for having lost him
And now must cope with his death
And our lives without him.

It IS that he passionately loved
Something that we too love.
And we admire that about him.
But passion comes at a price
And sometimes that price is very high.

JOEY.F

Gym climber

It's not rocket surgery

May 21, 2013 - 03:28pm PT

Gdavis,
With great admiration I read your account.
Please accept my condolences, and as well to the friends and family of Lucas.

msiddens

Trad climber

May 21, 2013 - 08:11pm PT

Damn, so very sorry.

otis

Trad climber

Lake Arrowhead, Ca

May 21, 2013 - 08:24pm PT

wow..very much of a bummer. After reading the details we have I'm guessing it's another case of rapping off the end of the rope. It would be very easy to see your partner below you and think that's where the rap ends. Ropes are never equal length at the end of a long rap. One end blows thru device, the scramble to grab anything causes rockfall. Might be why one end of rope was still in device. Back up your raps people, we know that's where the chopper can get ya.

condolences ... to Greg and to Lucas' family and friends

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

May 21, 2013 - 08:55pm PT

Again, I hope everyone involved can find peace in this terrible event.

After reading the details we have I'm guessing it's another case of rapping off the end of the rope.

Based on my knowledge of the route and Greg's original post it sounds to me like a mishap at the end of the rope, but not exactly rapping off it.

Greg makes it clear in his post that they had one rope. He refers to Lucas throwing the rope on his back, and he refers to centering it at the middle mark while setting up the rap. He also says he left overhands in the ends with app 3" tails. It sounds like Lucas was at the ends of the rope, undid those knots (or one of them) and then whatever happened did.

I don't know the exact length of the rap from the bolts atop Bat Crack to safety at the base of the direct start, but Greg's' description "careful this is not exactly an AMGA approved rap" indicates that they were improvising a bit with not enough rope (no criticism intended - I've done that and gotten away more times than I can recall.)

I've always done Vampire with double ropes, two 50M 8.5s are ideal.

Again going by Greg's op, I'd rule out an improper setup of the device up at the anchor. That would have been a huge free fall and the results would have not been as were described.

Jack McBroom

Trad climber

Hemet, Ca.

May 21, 2013 - 09:31pm PT

I just heard about this from a student in my class this morning. It wasn't until I got to this forum that I realized who this Lucas was. He was not a student of mine, but wandered into my classroom regularly to visit and talk climbing. A really sweet and positive kid, always smiling, always full of calm energy. I had a huge stack of old climbing mags that he'd look through and I could see the dreams in his eyes and hear the happiness in his voice.
Then he graduated and I didn't hear anything again til now.

When I saw his photo, I just froze and like many of you, could only think "Oh No!"
This is not an ending I ever imagined. So terribly sorry and sad.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

May 21, 2013 - 11:23pm PT

Ugh, just saw this, Greg. So sorry to hear this.

God bless your buddy, Lucas. Take some time to deal with this. Maybe talk to Wendell (TGT), as he dealt with similar stuff with his good buddy, Woody.

Sorry, Greg.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

May 22, 2013 - 12:01am PT

I saw Greg Sunday.

From his description, the ledge collapsed out from under Lucas just as he was getting off rappel.

Doesn't sound like any operator error was involved.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

May 22, 2013 - 12:20am PT

From his description, the ledge collapsed out from under Lucas just as he was getting off rappel.

That's what it sounded like. Still sucks though.

Glad you talked to him.

Loco de Pedra

Mountain climber

Niteroi Rio de Janeiro

May 22, 2013 - 09:20am PT

Did the end of the rappel had back up knots or not?

didn't tie ends (because until yesterday I hardly ever bother)

I don’t think is anyone fault, even when is human error and based on wrong decisions. To be out there each individual assumes this risk. However, to honor all involved we MUST TRY to learn from it. I believe that no one goes in vain, we all have our callings, and that is unchangeable.

I wish understanding and acceptance to all involved on this personal tragedy.

Thanks to the author for having the courage to come forth and share this experience. Keep on moving.