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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 28, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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A great article by Ed Douglas from Rock & Ice 219, July 2014, showing us a bit of the complexity involved in being the late Patrick Edlinger.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 28, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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Extremeartiste
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
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Patrick died a few years ago, I his house failing in the stairs.
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Extremeartiste
Big Wall climber
Las Vegas
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RIP Patrick, miss you, the good old days of climbing, puriste, artist, and angel on the rock.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Hero never dies
It all started long ago by the discovery of a small photo by Gérard Kosicki tucked away in a corner of a page of his magnificent book Patrick Edlinger Rock Games - Climbing aux USA. There, in a small frame, the powerful hands of Patrick Edlinger placing a micro spring-loaded wedging device that I knew to be a prototype of D. Best Mountaineering Quickie. No doubt Ron Kauk, the tester of these prototypes at the time, had met Patrick during his odyssey to the States...
The story could very well stop here for the curator of the Nuts Museum but while surfing on the Internet years later I came across a short unknown video, a Patrick’s portrait for Anglo-Saxon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_2tZ9PH-1c
We see Patrick, at home, opening a white trunk where he stores his climbing gear. Clinging to a cluster of various nuts, I recognized the famous Quickies therefore they made the trip back to France... A “screen capture” and a little Photoshop later, I shared this great discovery with my irreplaceable and loyal partner, Denis Pivot, who suggested to me that “he could, perhaps, do something...”
Patrick Edlinger then entrusted to the expert pen of Jean-Michel Asselin the memories of his climbing career and his life as a simple man; and I was waiting like so many others this extraordinary biography written with four hands covered by chalk… My friend Denis had even allowed himself to promise me a signed copy by the two authors…
In November 2012, during a short trip to Paris, visiting a former elementary school classmate now a journalist, we started to discuss about mountain and climbing. With the turning of the conversation, my friend told me of the passing away of Patrick... Utterly shocked, I told him that he was mistaken, that Patrick was working on his book, or that he had to talk about another Patrick ... This misunderstanding was unfortunately short-lived, and I walked out of the meeting completely knocked out!
Patrick Edlinger was immortal, the craftsman of my adolescence’s dreams, the paths opener to a successful life; such was the way I shared the aura of this legend that we all followed the destiny through films, articles, books and photographs.
Then it became completely indecent for me to continue my quest of these D. Best prototypes…
Recently, Denis Pivot told Michel Béal about my improbable project to add a couple of Patrick’s nuts to the Nuts Museum. Never would I have dared to inspire this request without the friendship between Michel and Denis. To take such action for oneself seems already so delicate, so I can imagine the awkwardness in which, perhaps, Denis and I have put Michel Béal...
Here, I would like to express my gratitude to Denis Pivot, Michel Béal, Matia Edlinger and Patrick’s parents for all their trust and for the interest they have brought to my "work." I thank all these persons very much who so kindly contributed to the Nuts Museum and for paying tribute to my hero.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I was given a subscription to Rock&ice, and the P Edlinger, issue was to be my second,
It never showed, and I let it pass, then around a year later I did not receive my dawn wall issue? So I called, they seemed sure it had been sent but sent me another.
It seems that some where some one in the postal service here ? Knows what is climbing news. Now I want to get that issue.
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RyanD
climber
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Very nice additions to this thread by Marlow & nutstory, thanks!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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PE Dolomite shoes
The Dolomites in use
Ed: Cosmic - I don't know what size. They're meant for a museum-to-be.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 28, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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I found these Dolomite Patrick Edlinger shoes recently:
Is this a first generation Dolomite PE or is it a later one?
Below is a very early Dolomite PE shoe posted by Nutstory. The shoe above hasn't got Dolomite written on the bond on the side of the shoe, which could be a sign that this is an earlier shoe than the one in Nutstory's photo.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jun 16, 2017 - 11:11am PT
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Finding Edlinger's name on a pair of climbing shoes or a rope, is just what one expects to do. Finding the name on a climbing ice axe/hammer is more surprising.
Grivel Edlinger
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 16, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
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Neat posts. Amazing how dated the shoes look.
BAd
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 16, 2017 - 05:27pm PT
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An Edlinger ice tool.....something like a Jim Whittaker rock climbing shoe or a Warren Harding alcohol free red wine.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jun 18, 2017 - 06:15am PT
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Nice one Jim! ^^^^^ Good to see your keen insight lives on.
Bump for Patrick, he was an inspiration!
Big Penny attempts a Edlinger route near Finale, Italy. On a tight line she shows how far apart the holds were...I knew of this route as the first 8a in Italy when we visited in 91'
A picture does tell a story, we traveled by touring bike-the simplicity of "euro sport climbing"- thus my bicycling shoe shot, and I notice my FROG chaulk bag a hangin off her!!!!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 18, 2017 - 08:32am PT
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An Edlinger ice tool.....something like a Jim Whittaker rock climbing shoe or a Warren Harding alcohol free red wine.
Nice
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 18, 2017 - 09:15am PT
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Struck me as a little mean-spirited.
The truth sets some free and scars the rest.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 18, 2017 - 09:40am PT
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What is humorous take to some people is disrespectful, offensive, tasteless, inflammatory, belittling, non-pc, racist, or insensitive to others.
I appreciated Jim's comment as both funny and insightful.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 12:49pm PT
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Climbing moves may have gotten simpler and less fancy as difficulty has increased but that there is about as pretty as it ever got. Those high steps to both feet and the incredibly long reach, over and over again.
Wish he was still here; and climbing.
If you don't watch the whole movie just skip to the very end for his bare footed free solo.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Patrick Edlinger left a deep impression. Here as told by Norwegian climber Geir Harald Samuelsen:
"A late evening in 1984: The Norwegian Broadcasting Center is showing the film "With life hanging from the fingertips". The film shows Patrick Edlinger, a strong, blond French climber with a headband who climbs without a rope 200 meters above the ground on a high limestone wall in Buoux, Provence. A fourteen year old kid from Hurumlandet, Norway, is sitting in front of the TV screen. He is about to be seriously shocked. And after a while also inspired, though he still don't know. Edlinger's stoical, uncompromising, indian and nearly mystical creature, the characteristic well schooled climbing style with high footmoves and turnout, his white hands, his own laconic French voiceover, the light blue, nearly transparent limestone, the wind, breath, the sky. The soundtrack of the film turning dry, creaking, cold, minimalistic, the courage close to pure madness. Everything about the film is deeply fascinating for the 14 year old kid and the images are burned into his memory and body. He sits as stuck to the screen. He is able to set the new VHS machine on record. After one week he has seen the film around 70 times."
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