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Googlymoogly
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
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I am good to my word and will give details. I Haven't been ignoring anyone I just haven't been near a computer. I will be able to write a lot more this coming weekend. The one thing I will clear up now though is that the rumor stating we didn't have ascenders is false. I'll write a lot more this weekend
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 14, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Thanks, Chris.
Now everyone leave him alone for a while til he responds, eh?
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cintune
climber
Midvale School for the Gifted
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Aug 14, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
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crasic
climber
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Aug 14, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Epic clusters with happy endings are always fun to read, popcorn ready!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
-A race of corn eaters
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Aug 14, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
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Now everyone leave him alone for a while til he responds, eh?
You've been the main, stand-out prodding him, hahaha.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 14, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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Did I read that correctly ??????????
"Supertopo bears some responsibility."
maybe not the best choice of words, I admit. I did not mean CMac or the website was responsible, rather I was referring to the collective input of the participants in the discussion.
Having re-read the thread I will agree there were red flags for the OP, Cragman was the first, with an unequivocal "HELL NO" but there were also posts that could be construed as tacit approval, there was also posts dismissing the OP as a troll.
In hindsight the OP should have taken advantage of the experience of any one of a number of experienced individuals on SP who would have been generous with their advice. Maybe this thread should be posted up as a TR so that another "sport rappeller" does not make the same mistake.
As for the lack of Jumars, did that really matter? If he had them he still would have been stuck on the Nose needing a rescue, right?
Ultimately the individual is responsible for their own success or failure.
edit: Just saw the OP's recent post, kudos to him for posting up.
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OR
Trad climber
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Aug 14, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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This may have been said before but SAR loves this kind of event. Good practice and an easy rescue. All the BS about SAR being put out is just BS. They sign up for the thrill of doing just this type of thing. Thats why there are kids lined up to join SAR in the valley. They were all smiles and giddy with excitement when this call came in. Bad form by the silly rappers though. The $$$ to us taxpayers sucks. Fines are in order.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 14, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Hey Chris,
looking forward to hear you story.
Glad that you get such adventure without harm.
You created unintentionally a very interesting ST tread
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Aug 14, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Still waiting to hear the trip report which could clear a lot of things up, such as the reason(s) for bailing. Obviously if someone was injured its different than if they're just gripped with fear and don't want to wait half a day for the next Nose party to go by. If there was some technical error, like they got stuck in the middle of nowhere with no way out, I guess I'd have to hear the story. Although if the rapellers are in some kind of legal trouble they may not want to tell the story just yet.
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Aug 14, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Chris:
Do not know if you “would not ever do that again” but just wish I had the correct information then maybe could have pulled it off. No biggie.
Correction info, gear, water……. but where to go [I am assuming] and getting the correct anchors is all you needed. So a future try is in order. Your fine might say do not attempt or do this ever again, if it does just go back to the judge and say I would like to make some amendments to this order.
Rohrer will be in the park tomorrow up in Crane Flat site #223 for seven days and plans to be in the valley, the next week starting the 22nd he will be in the valley for a week in upper pines Site #? but will give to you tomorrow, here you will get first hand instructions and where to go, so don’t feel that bad. This way you will have the correct info or Hey! I and my partner have a new perspective on the situation.
That’s all you need plus making sure not run into teams coming up, weather conditions, plenty of water…………………………..
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Aug 14, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
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Considering the very wide range of experience and knowledge on this forum; it makes sense for the more experienced people to respectfully accept their responsibilities as mentors
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pc
climber
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Aug 14, 2012 - 09:43pm PT
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Respectfully Tom...
I think he was strongly advised to NOT do it for a number of very good reasons. He chose to ignore that advice and plough ahead anyway.
And I'd say the Taco's probably a very good place to find mentors for later individual guidance in person or by email but not a great place to expect crisp clear answers/advice to general questions. Too many trolls asking and answering. You can probably figure out the diamonds in the rough if you've been here for a while but I think this was his first post?...
$.02 and glad he survived.
pc
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Aug 14, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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pc has a good point.
Not only was he brand new to the forum, I have seen many cases over the years of new posters asking for advice, and then choosing to ignore all of it and do as they wish anyways.
Not saying Chris is one of those, but I'd be willing to bet he didn't realize the amount of experience behind the avatars.
Looking forward to the TR and the responses that follow. Dude has balls, that's for sure. Let's see how the brain equipment works.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Atta boy, Chris. No shame - we all each and every one of us have f'd up in our lives, have relied on help from others, and have made boneheaded plays that we couldn't have gotten out of without help. Yeah there are varying degrees of this, but humility is the lesson from all of it. Well, maybe some shame has a place. So shame, then humility.
Glad you'll be writing it up.
PS - I think I saw you (if you were the one who was lowered rather than lifted; if not, your pard) loading up into a ranger's car in front of EC meadow. I asked the ranger about the rescue and if everyone was ok. He kind of motioned his eyebrows towards you and said, "Yup, everybody's ok." You looked utterly stomped, but had your chin up. Whoever said that you'll laugh about this one day is spot on.
Damnit I'm getting the chuckles now... thinking of both your debacle (stranded in space over the Great Roof?! Unable to ascend your ropes?!) and some of my own from the past... maybe we'll share a campfire some time and swap stories of idiocy and folly.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Aug 15, 2012 - 12:59am PT
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To insert a somber note into this discussion, some of the best people lose their lives by making equally simple mistakes. When Frank Sacherer and Joe Weis died rapelling the Grandes Jorasses, Frank was killed instantly in a fall (obviously not tied into the anchor) and the only two prusiks they brought on the climb were in his back pack. Joe Weis then tried to rappel down alone, realized he was off route and about to go off the ropes onto the north face, and needed to re-ascend. Lacking prussiks, he could go neither up nor down on the icy rope and hung there until he died. The major difference? The weather. The helicoptors could not fly for five days in Chamonix.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Aug 15, 2012 - 01:08am PT
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I've looked at those topos showing the bail-out rap anchors and contemplated the same thing. But I know better and I've shown restraint. Rapping 3,000 ft because you don't have the pull-up power to climb it, just seems, unright.
However, I think there is a market here for guided rappels. Possible decent cash income for those who know the route and have the experience. Werner made it sound easy. It probably is for him since I'm sure he's been all over that thing.
So, how about a couple of dirtbags to mule the gear up there for $125 each and someone skilled and experienced to lead the descent for say, $300. Total out of pocket, $550 to rap the nose. I'll bet you could do it full time for that price.
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OR
Trad climber
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Aug 15, 2012 - 07:49am PT
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Damnit I'm getting the chuckles now... thinking of both your debacle (stranded in space over the Great Roof?! Unable to ascend your ropes?!) and some of my own from the past... maybe we'll share a campfire some time and swap stories of idiocy and folly.
So true Bruce. Can you imagine being in a pinch like that! I hate to admit it but one of my biggest fears on Elcap was the humiliation of having to be rescued by poeple I knew at YOSAR. Never happened thank god.
Jan makes a good point too. Some of the best died making silly mistakes. Every person here has done something silly and they are full of sh-t otherwise.
These guys have taken it to a whole new level though.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 15, 2012 - 08:35am PT
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"These guys have taken it to a whole new level though."
:-)
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Aug 15, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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It will be interesting to compare the TR from the OP to all the hearsay that has been fueling the last 100 posts.
Edit to add:
Karl: Ironically, this thread is making me want to rap the nose!
Actually.. me too Karl. I don't have 5 days to drag myself up piss-soaked ledges. I'll get the low-down from Grossman on the best booty-collecting rap-route and I'm totally in. ;)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 15, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Come on Dean, you know your not done with this, its like watching NASCAR, once that car starts spinning there is no way you are looking away.
I did not think the comment was an attack. I think the comment was off base because the issue is not morals and sinning, unless you think ignoring advice on ST is a sin, and that would make ST members GOD!
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