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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Update from 11pm last night on the 5th of Aug.
Some great tips on AIS and autopilots. The cool thing about the AIS is you have a good idea who is about the run you down on a dark, stormy night with a gale running and nobody responding to your frantic VHF calls. Let's see, it is a Liberian registered container ship, Hong Kong ownership, with a Philippine, Pakistani crew and an Egyptian captain. Radar is a dream machine for the nighttime game of dodging squalls. Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose. Can be pretty unnerving to have the wind go from 5 to 50 kts without any warning.
Grittings from the briny deep,
Our position at 11:30 PDT is 47:43N by 153:48W. 866nm to Sitka!! We are sailing in a very sloppy, wet, gray, cold 24 knots of true wind from 220 degrees Magnetic. This is an awkward direction (of course...) as it puts the course to Sitka at about 160 degrees apparent, deep enough down wind so that the jib is pretty useless and flogs and snaps and generally wreaks havoc with itself and the boat. As a result, we are steering to 135 degrees off the wind with the autopilot, and taking a smallish hit on Velocity Made Good to Sitka. Commanders Weather predicts the winds will turn more northerly tomorrow, allowing us to steer more directly at Sitka.
We have full main and the 150% jib rolled up to about 125%, and that is plenty of sail area at the moment. We are doing 7.5 knots give or take. Commanders predicts good wind all the way to Sitka, and a rough estimate places us there Friday, August 10. If we can hold an average of 7 knots we will arrive mid morning. We will see.....
It is REALLY cold and the humidity is very high. A biting deep cold that seeps into you. As a result, we are staying below today and watching the radar. We have been picking up ships at distances of up to 30 miles with our AIS (Automatic Identification System, I think) receiver. Each large ship is required to have a dedicated transmitter that transmits the ships position, course, speed, etc on dedicated VHF radio channels. We have a Standard Horizon 2150 Matrix AIS + radio (GREAT VHF radio) which in addition to acting like a normal VHF radio has a dedicated AIS receiver in it. I HIGHLY recommend this radio!!!! Anyway, we pipe the AIS data signal to both our chartplotter and radar, and it shows an icon at the ship's position, with a display of ship name, course, speed, position, and a lot more. We often see the icon appear on the radar screen, plotted at the actual position of the ship relative to us long before we see a radar return from the ship. If you are planning to head out on sailing adventures, I think that a really robust AIS receiver and some way to display the targets and sound alarms is VERY MUCH AN ESSENTIAL. This is not something to be cheap about. Using the main VHF radio and it's masthead antenna is a very good solution, as it preserves the whole power of the VHF (some standalone units require a splitter in the antenna lead, and lose 3dB (one half) the power on both transmit and receive- a very undesireable thing. the 2150 has a crude display, and can be set to sound an alarm itself, but we have not used this feature, as we have other ways of seeing the information.
DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT!!!
Speaking of auto pilots: We have an NKE system, which is identical to the ones used on the Open 60's, probably the world's fastest monohulls, the ones sailed in the Vendee Globe around the world non-stop races and so on. The ram is similar to a B&G ram, made by Hydraulic Projects in England. NKE uses Lecomble and Schmidt rams, but I had several of the old B&G ones, and the HyPro unit is form factor compatible. Anyway, this autopilot is truly awesome! I can steer to heading, using a very fast and precise flux gate compass, or true or apparent winds, using a very good mast mounted wind vane, or to a waypoint on a GPS receiver. We use it a lot in the apparent wind mode, as we are doing right now, to keep sailing at an exact angle with respect to the wind. When shorthanded, this is nice, as you can get the sails optimized for a specific wind angle and relax, knowing they will not need constant tweaking as the boat careens around the ocean. Our present deep downwind situation makes it possible to optimize boat speed and to keep the sails full as the boat rolls and yaws (which it is doing in spades at the moment). The wind is oscillating enough that if we stuck to a single compass course, as the wind shifted to more behind us the jib would lose wind, collapse, then refill with a huge bang, the boat would roll, and all sorts of stresses would be put on the blocks, lines and other hardware. The penalty is that we do not track a perfect course to where we want to go, but since we can get more speed this way, the tradeoff is often worth it. We are presently tracking north of the Great Circle route to Sitka, but tomorrow we will be able to head more east to make up for it as the wind is predicted to shift more northerly.
Speaking of radar, we are presently tracking a big squall trying to hit us from the port quarter. It is impressive in size. We may just squeak in fronnt of it (I HOPE). it is currently about 6 miles away, but closing fast. Another really good feature of radars, and if you are buying one amke sure it can see weather. Many of the newer digital radars go to great lengths to clean up the displays and to hide rain, and squalls. We are running the radar in Manual mode (not possibloe on some radars) which lets us tune the gain, rain and sea clutter controls to see things that are often hidden by automatic gain controls. The wind is picking up fast now and we are doing 8.7 knots witht 25 knots true wind. We seem to be near some sort of squally part of the ocean, as more are appearing on the radar. Commanders warned us this might happen. Big bertha is now 3 miles away and coming fast... Whew!! It looks like it will pass 2 miles astern! I am reminded of the old Cheech and Chong routine, where the two dope dealers are driving in the car at night to make a delivery, and see lights and hear a siren behind them. In a panic, they start eating all the dope, and just as they get it all down, Cheech says, "Oh it's ok man! It was an ambiulance!". THis one looked like it packed some punch. I am glad it missed.
Well, I will call it quits for now. The sea is no longer the late lamented pacific- it is now very rough, with a 6-8 foot somewhat confused sea with whitecaps and a COLD stiff wind. At least we can now get to Sitka without worrying about the fuel level. We still have about 80 gallons, enough for several days and several hundred miles of motoring, should we need to.
Best wishes to all. Tomorrow if it is not too rough to type I might talk a bit about how people preparing their boats for sea might think about some things. Offshore is a bit different than normal coastal sailing, and although good preparation, coastal sailing does not cover all the eventualities. As usual, I have opinions. Bill Tilman, the legendary climber and Arctic and Antarctic sailor used to say " the camel driver has his thoughts, and the camel, he has his...".
Michael
Pacific Streamline Analysis-18 hours out from now. Mouton Noir is probably 100 nm from last nights position. Most likely sitting on the edge of the Cold Front, the blue line with the triangles attached to it. True to form from the Upper Air analysis several days ago there is a Low in the Gulf of Alaska ( what else is new) and you can see from the arrows drawn in along the isobars the wind angle is advantageous for once for bee lining to Sitka. Big question now is how much wind? and the seas? I have also enclosed the Upper Air Analysis for the next 48 hours. Time to get moving E-Kath!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Have they started kedging yet?
(posted from my hospital bed - how cool is that?)
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Lists?
We doan need no stinkin' lists.
except don't forget the long underwear (wool), wool sweaters, wool navy bell bottoms, sea boots, light and heavy ski gloves, balaclava, knit caps (2), toothbrush, good foul weather gear (don't scrimp), 3 pair of socks and 10 pair of underwear (don't count on washin' 'em).
and camera in double baggies.
Just git yer arse up that pitch!!
And have FUN!
(said with significant envy)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Just hope ya don't have to kedge - but it is a good
trick to have up yer sleeve when a British squadron
is chasing you in light airs.
A hospital bed is not real fun but I've SuperTopo!
WOO-HOO - MINDLESS ENTERTAINMENT!
The two main probs are the monitor is a mile across the
room so I have to increase the scren res so much I'm
only seeing about 1/4 of the web page. The other prob
isthe keyboard is one of those rubberized milspec/germ-proof
ones and you gotta pound the keys so hard it makes my
heparin lock hurt. It could be worse - I could be going
into SuperTopo withdrawal and none of us want to see that!
Have a great cruise eKat!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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OK. I have been reading about good offshore sailboats in the smallish range. They all have full keels and wide beams, but will recover quickly from a knockdown or capsize.
Pacific Seacraft is just too expensive. I don't want to pay for a millionaire's cabin.
The old Pearson Triton 28 gets around and you can pick up a cheap but sound one really cheap and then beef it up with extra shrouds and new chainplates.
They are all Alberg designs. The newer models give easier rides, but losing your rig is much easier according to what I read.
OK. I might grab an old Pearson Triton and beef it up. Then go sail around the world alone!! Via the Horn for full value!!
Either that or retire and grow medical weed.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 10, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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BASE104
Old cruisers' truism:
get the SMALLEST seaworthy boat you can afford.
although there are extremes!
We ran into Mike and Karen and 2 year old Falcon on Mike's Columbia 25 as they were completing Mike's 5 year circumnavigation in the Sea of Cortez (San Diego was his finish a few months later).
He'd done BIG mods to the boat.
Lengthened the cabin (taking away from the cockpit), strengthened all bulkheads, sealed cockpit and made it self draining.
Monitor windvane.
No galley (primus stove on a bench), no head (use a bucket in bad weather, piss over the side in good, trailing Falcon's diapers over the stern in a net bag)
No motor (not even outboard) just a long sweep.
Hand held VHF walkie talkie for emergencies.
Instruments?
Compass
Lead line for a depth sounder.
Anchor windlass? You've gotta be kidding, right?
Truism #2 (which everyone has heard)
A boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by wood (fiberglass, steel, aluminum, concrete) into which you pour money. See Truism #1
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 10, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
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I have no freaking clue what you guys are talking about. But is sounds really cool and I want to go.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 10, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Mouton Noir zeroing in on Sitka, steaks and hot showers:
Hello Everyone,
Mouton Noir is nearing Sitka. We are presently at 55:54N by 138:29W. We are sailing on our ear, closehauled on a course of 37M, right at the entrance to Sitka Sound. We have 120 nm to go. Our current ETA is midday on Saturday, August 11. We are racing a low pressure system which is behind us and to the west. Currently (and for the last 5 days) we are sailing in a foggy, rainy, drizzly, cold wet goo, with about 1/4 mile visibility. The wind is around 20 knots from the East, reflecting the malign influence of the pursuing low. Susan and I are starting to grow green mold under our armpits, and neither of us has changed clothes in a week. Nor washed in a week. If there were any flies this far away from land they would be too repelled by us to bother buzzing around. This unfortunate state of hygiene is not, of course, our choice. The boat is heeled about 20 degrees, and constantly moves around, making almost any chore a challenge. The cockpit is like a thawing meat locker, with water everywhere- flying, blowing, dripping, running. The Eskimos apparently have 27 different names for snow. We know at least that many names for cold water in all it's forms.
As I have been typing this, we are being overtaken by a massive squall system which can be seen on the radar for miles. A gift for us from the low pressure system to our west and south. We REALLY do not want to tangle with that one! ANyway, more lovely ice water in the cockpit. Weee...
Some German friends on Pagena, a French OVNI aluminum sailbot that left Hanaleii just before us are arriving as I type in Sitka. I just got an excited email from them, extolling the great scenery and the whales, and the smells of the pine trees, and the giant steak they are going to have and how nice the hot shower is going to feel, and how wonderful it is to be on solid land, and... you get the picture. Boo hoo hoo...
Well, midday tomorrow, when we arrive on the edge of the low, I am afraid that there will be no visibility but the steaks and showers of Sitka should TREMBLE AT OUR COMING!!!!!! Soooon there will be fewer of them, yess, there will be.....
This squall that is just upon us is huge! The entire radar for a radius of 6 miles is completely covered in yellow and red and blue blobs. I hope there are no fishing boats around, because we can't see them. So far, however,, we have seen, talked to, and avoided many, many ships with our AIS system. Great stuff.
Well, wish us a safe landfall. Conditions are not too horrible, in spite of my whining and moaning. Many years of doing Farallons races has helped prepare for this sort of thing. I don't think I want to be out here in a couple of days, though. We have enough fuel to motor the rest of the way, and we are well inside the SAR radius, where the Coast Guard could reach us with a chopper if some disaster struck, so that is reassuring.
I will drop you all a note after we arrive. We plan to stay in Sitka for a few days, and will probably depart on August 16 for Peril and Neva straits, enroute to Chatham Sound and the Inside Passage. Some tricky navigation there, with narrow, rock filled channels and big currents and tides, but there are ample navigation aids and many boats and ships make these passages all the time. One has to shake one's heads at the skill and courage of the early discoverers and charters of these waters. Whew!!!
All the best,
Michael and Susan
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 11, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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I want on the email list!!!
I have a stack of books on bluewater sailing, but all I have done is race on lakes in small keelboats or racing dinghies.
Don't knock the little boats. There is so much constant sail trimming and other work that you never get to sit down if you are crewing. If you are solo, it is even worse.
The pocket cruisers with the Alberg design (clunky looking) all seem solid, but yeah, you have to make the cockpit drain quickly and keep it small. They also roll around compared to a boat like Mouton Noir. I actually am having difficulty finding a good example of a really strong and seaworthy modern boat. All of the racers just aren't built to right themselves when knocked down or capsized, and the smaller the boat the worse. They are fantastic to watch, though.
The Mrs. would be happy for the privacy, I assume. She is fairly accustomed to my being gone for periods, having adventures.
I have a good knack for picking up new things and then learning to a high level. I imagine sailing in big waves will be much the same. I want a boat without much weather helm or griping. Trust me, I have had some accidental gybes and broaches during runs. The small racers are really intense boats to sail. I believe Ellen McCarther got her start in small boat racing.
My first boat was a Hobie 14, and that sucker would pitchpole on a dime, tossing you out to the mast. Lasers are also kind of like that. I have a buddy who is rabid about racing Santana 20's, and those suckers haul ass. You can't single hand them at full speed. Too much spinnaker work. Small boats with huge sail areas are kind of like bucking broncos.
Oklahoma is filled with big lakes, a legacy of the pork barrel days when Carl Albert was Speaker of the House. We usually have a national every year. The wind can be wicked, but you don't get ten foot seas in a lake.
I have sailed in the Gulf of Mexico, and big waves were kind of spooky. Then again, most people are still afraid of the dark. That's why you see tents up in perfect weather.
That Gulf of Alaska low looks like it might be settling in. Sailing near that sucker must be a nightmare. So my suggestion is for the Mouton Noir to watch the 300mb models instead of just surface maps. When the jet settles south in fall, the weather there is vicious. Understanding ageostrophic flow isn't that hard. Learn that, and you will understand how waves in the jet create closed lows at the surface. Then reading the longer range models will be easier.
Here is a link to the Navy's model, which is worldwide. It isn't very good at Tornado weather, but it is good enough for shipping. Hear are the best 3 day models, which are really accurate:
http://mag.ncep.noaa.gov/NCOMAGWEB/appcontroller?page=index&model=&area=&pname=&rname=&areaDesc=&cycle=&storm=&prevPage=&page=&cat=&imageSize=&currKey=&prevArea=
Here is the Navy's NOGAPS:
http://www.nrlmry.navy.mil/metoc/nogaps/
It goes out to really long range, but all models beyond 3 days are a little iffy. They do a good job on the big features, but are typically off by a day or so and a few hundred miles beyond a week. It is a good model for general weather.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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We made it. Will post landfall pics when I access real computer. I cried when I saw Mt Edgecumbe. The last 24 hrs were a nightmare. Lumpy seas in the vicinity of 8 to 10 ft swells. 35 knt winds that didn't go in the direction we wanted...and squalls that lit up the radar screen like a 70s psychedelic show...out to 12 miles. I like we have a sturdy aluminium boat, but the sounds are very tin cannish in rough seas. But WE ARE HERE....and headed out for a steak...even though we are in the land of fish. Fish tomorrow. Beef tonight. Good hot shower...all is good.
Susan
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 12, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Well Done!
Showers! Steak!
Hours doing laundry and swabbing the lockers.
Drying sails and washing lines.
Checking all the blocks/cleats.
Up the mast checking all the rigging.
Clearing that gooseneck in the head sink drain.
Learning how to walk on Terra Firma again.
The provision list.....then the provisioning.
Cruising is such a laid back way of life!
Seriously, my envy is nearly as green as the mold on the lost onion in the bilge, the one you haven't found yet!
Watch your passage near the Queen Charlotte Islands. Many well founded and well sailed boats have had troubles there.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Aug 12, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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This thread rules.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 12, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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eKat
A couple of ways to show your Skippers (note the plural) your gratitude.
Bottle or two or three of Pretty Good California Wine.
And your own insulated, tipping over resistant coffee mug!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 12, 2012 - 03:08pm PT
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It totally changed my life! not yet it hasn't!!!!
careful what you wish for ;---)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 12, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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^^^ Really, have ya thought about what would happen if we went to war with
Canada while you were on the Inside Passage? It wouldn't be the first time.
Internment camps aren't nice. ;-|
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perswig
climber
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Aug 12, 2012 - 06:15pm PT
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eKat = rail bait!
Have fun and remember, one hand for yourself.
Dale
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2012 - 10:03pm PT
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Some landing pics
first sight, I cried.
Later landfall, more to see.
Michael after a grueling 24 hour nasty, squally, time. But land a'ho!
Susan, after the same yucky 24 hours. It wasn't as cold as I look.
Docking was a bro ha ha. We intially went down the wrong lane, with no exit and turning around a 50 ft. sailboat with huge anchors and windvane off the back, and no bow thrusters....well the fishing fleet had a few stark moments of humor and "don't hit my boat". I have become exceedingly handy with a boat hook, standing on the anchor flukes, looking like I am holding a harpoon, kinda. No harm no foul, just alot of locals yuckling at the tourons!...us!
The boat appears to be in good condition with no major repairs obvious. Tomorrow we will begin going over each system and rigging carefully. But tonight, a wonderful hotel with down pillows, but most importantly...a good laundry! Yeah!
Susan
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 04:57am PT
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Congrats on your passage. We're leaving Oahu on Thurs. for SF.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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Save Voyage Sal! Hope you had a great race!
Moonrise on Starboard
turn to port, sunset, yes folks this was merely turning my head 90 degrees.
Susan
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