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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Soo Cool Mark@!
Way to manage it all.
Hudoncoffeerules!
GET SOME!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Gnarly little storm. Some ice cascading down might be in the mix tomorrow morning.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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No text this morning. Check out the turtleback web cam. Pretty sweet this morning.
Could not figure out how to post it though. 34F up there.
Looks like it will dry out fast.
max
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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He's too busy drinking his coffee this morning!
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Morgan
Trad climber
East Coast
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Mark, you should put some gorilla tape over your eyeglass frames where the lens fell out (eyepatch), so you can look more piratical.
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Skot433
Big Wall climber
Corona CA.
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HEAR, HEAR....
I second that Max...
Jealous as hell...
Mark, you are an inspiration to us all...
I humbly say again, you are my HERO
and proudly say, my friend....
Skot
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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I love the progression of posts here- starts out all happy and sunny, and slowly the wall takes its toll....
Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
It's beautiful up here on Iron Hawk right now, the rock and the climbing are awesome. It's getting dark, I just ate and am listening to music and am sitting here in perfect temps. I'm turning in shortly, I have two shortish pitches to do tomorrow, can't decide if I'll link them or not. I may just do them individually and avoid too much technical planning.
Oh well, that my report,
Cheers,
Good night!
Hey, BTW, a bunch of people have yelling up, cheering me on. I may not have turned around and responded, sometimes it's hard to tell where the sound is coming from, but I really appreciate it! Thanks!
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 06:51am PT
Okay, it's morning and I'm awake. Sorry, can't post photos from my iPhone to SuperTopo. Maybe I can send one to Max and he can post it.
Really, a ton of thanks to you all, I'm feeling the good vibes!
As usual, it's fricken beautiful up here, the morning sun on the very prow of El Cap, the sparrows chirping, the sounds of other climbers waking up, gear jangling.
I'm rocking the Deschutes River Blend, same as last time.
Ian, yur gonna die, but I guess you know that, eh?
Okay, gotta get to eating and packing for another awesome day on The Captain!
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
Top of pitch 13 now for the night. I there were five bolts at the anchor, one newish 3/8 and four old looking quarter inchers. I replace two of the old bolts and pulled and filled the hole of another. Now it's a nice 3 - 3/8 bolt anchor and a quarter incher to spare.
Aside from that I had a nice relaxing day climbing two pitches, 130 and 70 feet long.
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
Thanks.
The KB traverse is 120 feet and gains only about 15 or 20 feet vertical. BTW, right in the middle is a stealth death loose block! I hooked on it's thin end and then clipped a bolt with a wire hanger just past it. I figured I'd put a cam behind it but when I grabbed it, it moved an inch or two! It'll be an easy trundle.
So far I've removed a ton of tat, five or six heads and maybe a dozen deadheads. I was able to remove one old RURP and filled five old bolt holes.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
Well, this route is badass and is crushing me! Did I mention that I dropped my Gri-gri at the end of my second day? I'm self belaying with a Silent Partner (which is way nice) but for rapping I'm using a good ol carabiner brake! Still though, a Gri-gri is a very handy tool and I miss not having it.
I did two shortish pitches today but they were both overhanging and awkward. I got to this anchor to find one 3/8 bolt and a poor looking quarter incher. There were okay cracks to add to the anchor but I reached out left and drilled another 3/8 bolt. I may jerk the quarter incher tomorrow morning and replace it with a 3/8.
I am beat! At least my first pitch tomorrow looks low angle, maybe I can cruise it!
Thanks for all the comments!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
After dropping the Gri-gri I got freaked out and tied tether cords onto my two Micro-traxions (very sweet tools) and a tether onto the Silent Partner. The thing is great but it's big and awkward to hold. When I get home I'm going to find a spot to drill a better keeper cord to it.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
I've taken four falls so far and it's held every time! Yah!
My only suggestion would be for a keeper cord hole somewhere.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
I'm sitting here right now, my shoulders are killing me from pulling myself in and up all day and I'm too tired to make dinner!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 08:05am PT
Thanks for all the encouragement, I've used my "you're MH, and you're Badass" line a lot on this trip!
Making coffee right now, just watched Cheyne Lempe and Hannold do the Boot and King Swing, slept like a rock last night and I know it's all relative but the next pitch is truely low angle!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
More detail later but the right lens of my glasses popped out mid pitch today and took off for the trees! I have perscription sunglasses but no spare regular set. Dang! Who would have thunk!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
At the anchor I'm at now, the 16th, I took out FIVE crappy 1/4 inch bolts and added a 3/8 to the other two that were here. I have only one 3/8 bolt left.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2012 - 06:54am PT
Thanks, for the beta. I'm not going to stop at 17. The ST topo shows two short pitches after it that I hope to combine. 17 is 80', 19 shows 60' and 20 shows 30' for a total of 170'.
Thanks for all the comments and good vibes.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
I don't know why this look like a walk in the park 'cause it's working me bad. I'm sore all over and my fingers are klilling me! It looks like it's not going to rain till tomorrow afternoon and evening, maybe I'll do the 5.9 climbing after the pendulum and fix a line back down to here at the top of pitch 20. I have plenty of water although my Advil supply is dwindling!
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
Well, I'm on my ledge, under my fly, in my sleeping bag, listening to the Stones and just dinished a can of pineapple chunks. Its 'not raining yet but there are clouds in the Valley and it's gotten cold. It sorta smells like 8 day old socks in here! I'm gonna take a nap soon…
The bolts I'm using I got from Greg at the ASCA. The look to be 2.5 inches long.
You wouldn't believe the mountain of tar I've cut off this route! Holy shit! It's a ton! I'll take a photo of it all when I top out. I've cleaned out maybe 15-18 deadheads also.
I have my radio on and am trying to call Pete.
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
It just started raining in earnest. I can't get my ledge low enoght to get the fly tight so I have one little leak that I'm dealing with by wedging my pee bottle against the fly spreader bar with a dry sack over it and my camp sponge underneath! It's getting windy now and my empty water bottles are swinging all over the place!
So far, this is rather fun (given that I know it's going to last only the rest of the day and evening).
Jun 4, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
Mark's batteries on his phone are low - he asked if I could forward his texts.
6:16pm 6/4
I think the other spot might have been better, you know, the one NOT under a water runoff!
6:52pm 6/4
I don't have enough power to spare to send you a photo. It seems like its backed off a bit right now. Hey, don't ever thing you should go up on a wall without a camp sponge!
I'm not going to get on the Internet anymore so maybe you can copy and paste this.
I'll pass along what I get!
Max
Jun 4, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
More texts from the front:
7:17pm
"Even with the runoff, If I have more space between the portal edge and rock, I could hAve hung the ledge lower and had gotten the fly tighter, the water would have run off it and not pooled in the various odd spots. "
"I have to put on my SUNGLASSES to read what I'm typing! Remember that I lost that lens!
It's brighter to the West right now, might that mean anything?"
8:01pm
"I just poked my head outside and it starting to clear up to the west although it's still raining here now. "
9:02pm
"i am below the A3 pitch below the two 5.9 pitches.
I hope to do the A3 and both 5.9's tomorrow, leaving me with a single 170 pitch on my final day. The 5.9 pitches have to be dry though…
I see stars out although it's still raining a little. "
That's it for now.
Jun 5, 2012 - 08:57am PT
No text this morning.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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No update from Hud today - from Tom's report Mark, climbed a pitch today and is at the bottom of the two face climbing pitches. Three from the top.
I have been wondering lately the toll the electronic world takes on truly cutting the tethers, if only for a brief time, that bind us to our cluttered realities.
Maybe a dead cell phone is perfect!
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Max - if you get a chance and can contact him, can you let him know that I WILL be there? He'll know what you mean....
many thanks......Ian
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I have been wondering lately the toll the electronic world takes on truly cutting the tethers, if only for a brief time, that bind us to our cluttered realities.
Yes - I saw a blog yesterday from someone who did the Pacific Crest Trail a year or two ago, and with the aid of an i-phone and solar cells was able to post about his adventure almost every day. Some friends did it long ago, and essentially disappeared for months, apart from an occasional post card or call.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Should have checked my phone earlier.
7:42pm Tuesday 6/5
"Yes. It cold and windy. What is the forecast for Tomorrow?"
Hoping to do the two 5.9 pitches and that last pitch to the top tomorrow"
(I had sent a text this morning asking if things were drying out)
I sent the noaa valley forecast for Wednesday: 71F 11mph north winds changing to west.
81F Thursday.
max
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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up
hopeful for more updates.. perhaps Mark will top out today?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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That was good Rhodo-Router
Go Mark !
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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On standby for the summit pic!
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Ian Gill
Big Wall climber
Redding, CA
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Summit report? C'mon, Badass, cough it up!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Patience. Yer almost there. Just chill & move when it's right.
Like always.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Bump for awesomeness! :)
Wes
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Patience. Yer almost there. Just chill & move when it's right.
Like always.
Yes!
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